Gun Review: MGS’ The Citizen Rifle AR-15

When Phil told me I would be getting another AR-15 in for review, I found myself dreading the arrival of yet another black rifle. In my mind, there is only so much that you can do with the AR-15 platform that would come even remotely close to impressing me. Once the MGS Citizen Rifle showed up at my FFL, a quick glance over the rifle revealed that while it was a very nice collection of parts, the only clue that the rifle held a secret power was the rifle length gas tube stuck to a 16″ Criterion 1:8″ twist barrel.

You now have my attention.

The rifle shipped in a plastic Plano rifle case with one magazine and not much else. I was rather pleased with the inclusion of a proper case; I never seem to have enough of them when I head out to the range. My expectation that the MGS Citizen was a nice collection of parts was more than confirmed; MGS must have thrown the entire catalog of Fortis parts at it.P1080729

Once I got out to the range I wanted to take a much closer look at the components used to build the rifle out. Is it possible that the rifle lives up to its near $2,000 MSRP? Based on my initial scan of the rifle, if it shoots well it will be well worth it.

When we take a look at the upper and lower receiver, you find they are standard forged units. The lower parts kit used to assemble the lower receiver is of very nice quality; I suspect it may be a DPMS parts kit with an AXTS Talon ambidextrous safety as well as what appears to be a nickel boron coated trigger that feels like it has been worked on by someone who knows what they are doing. IMG_4358

While I wasn’t able to identify the trigger guard with my very limited research, MGS did have it laser marked with their logo and used the screw method instead of a roll pin, my personal favorite way to build my lower receivers.  That little gap that typically resides between trigger guard and grip that can tear up a finger quickly is absent on the Citizen, the trigger guard, and grip meld together beautifully leaving no sharp edges.IMG_4361 IMG_4363

The upper receiver features a forward assist, brass deflector, and dust cover for those of you that are sticklers for those features. IMG_4365

AXTS has a strong presence on the rifle as well; The Citizen comes with not only the Talon selector set up for a 90-degree throw, but they also include the equally excellent AXTS Raptor charging handle as standard. While these two parts aren’t game changing on their own, I really appreciate their inclusion.

As soon as the rifle came out of the case, I swapped it over to the 45-degree side I prefer. IMG_4366 IMG_4367

To continue with the great rifle parts train, MGS fitted a Fortis QD Endplate to the Citizen. I will deduct some points for their failure to stake the end plate properly. It may not be considered essential for most AR-15 builders; I don’t own a rifle where it hasn’t been done. If the Citizen rifle were to live the remainder of its life in my safe, the first thing I would do after it was paid for is stake the piss out of the end plate.IMG_4371

Up front, a 14” Fortis Switch free float handguard is installed over the 16” Criterion barrel and Fortis low profile gas block. This is the first time I have had a chance to play with the Switch for an extended period. The diameter is darn near perfect, and it feels great in hand, even if it is KeyMod. The coolest feature that I would never, ever need is the switch on the bottom of the rail that when flipped, allows the handguard to be removed.

I do want to point out the barrel nut design, notice that it is smooth so the handguard can slip on and off, I also appreciate the fact that it no longer needs to be timed to allow the gas tube to pass through. After building a single upper with that style barrel nut, I refuse to use anything else because of its simplicity.

I don’t exactly know why that is an important feature, but it did give us a chance to drink in that excellent Criterion barrel. With a reputation for being some of the best on the market, the Criterion barrel had my attention from the moment I pulled the Citizen from the case. With a 1:8” twist rate and a .223 Wylde chamber, the barrel has the makings of an excellent shooter, especially with the Criterion name behind it.IMG_4372 IMG_4373 IMG_4374


Also marked with the MGS logo is the AXTS Raptor charging handle. We just reviewed the suppressor friendly Freedom Bone that is identical to the Raptor with the addition of gas ports along the top to keep gas face at bay. You can check out my review HERE, but the TL;DR version is that the AXTS charging handle is very, very good.  IMG_4377

While I had the charging handle out, I pulled the bolt carrier group out as well. I feel as though I recognized the bolt carrier group as being produced by someone, but can’t quite put my finger on who it is. Either way, it is nicely finished in a Black Nitride and the machining work is spot on. Oh, and the gas key is properly staked like someone should expect when buying a premium part.IMG_4380 IMG_4383

On the back side of the rifle, you find a Vltor Emod stock mated to a Mil-Spec Vltor receiver extension. I liked the easy to reference numbers but didn’t find them to be overly useful. The EMOD has some rather nice features that come at the expense of weight. I won’t go too far into the EMOD stock; it has been around long enough for there to be hundreds of reviews on it. Some of the highlights of the stock are places to put batteries, a porthole for viewing numbers, a metal strike plate, and QD attachment points.

As I mentioned earlier, the end plate is not staked properly. While not a deal breaker, I would have liked to see a couple of nice, clean indentations. IMG_4384IMG_4386 IMG_4389 IMG_4391

That super nice Criterion barrel is topped off with one of the more efficient brakes I have had the pleasure to shoot to date, the Fortis muzzle brake. The included control shield is also a nice touch; I know my friend Scott appreciated me using it while he was shooting groups and I was blasting away for photos.

Installation of the control shield is stupid easy. Make sure the tab on the inside of the shield is lined up with the groove in the brake, slide it on until it stops, then turn the control shield counter clockwise until it clicksIMG_4394 IMG_4399

I started shooting at my 8” steel plate at 50 yards to zero the Aimpoint M4 I threw on the Citizen, to my surprise the dot was about an inch high at 50 yards. After I was comfortable with the zero, I loaded up several magazines and emptied them at the pace of about a shot every half second with only two misses out of the 120 rounds I fired in that string.

After that series of four mags on target, I loaded four more up and experimented with the brake both covered by the blast diverter and without, I found that the blast diverter did its job rather well and didn’t reduce the effectiveness of the brake too terribly much.

With it being as easy to shoot the MGS Citizen fast and accurately, I was left in awe. When the rifle first arrived, I was eager to get it to the range, review it, and send it back. Now I am left with a very hard decision, do I shell out the money to keep the rifle in my safe? Since I have a little one on the way my gun budget isn’t near what it used to be making the decision harder than ever. Even my shooting buddy Scott wanted to know if he could buy it after shooting some groups at 50 yards with the Citizen.MGS-1 MGS-2 MGS12 MGS11

Since we were already set up on the 50-yard line, we just shot groups from there. Either way, the group Scott shot with some of the IMI Razor Core 77-grain OTM ammo I brought out for accuracy testing is nothing short of majestic. Scott put ten rounds into one ragged hole with only a wooden block, a towel, and a sock filled with beans. That Criterion barrel is incredibly accurate, and the rifle length gas system does a great job of keeping that soft recoil impulse 20” AR shooters enjoy as well as an increased lock time. IMG_4356

While at the range I noticed that the nickel boron trigger was one of the nicest Mil-Spec units I have ever run across and had to put it on my trigger gauge. Coming in at just under 5 pounds every time I tested it, it was pretty impressive, but I still would have liked to see a high-quality unit like a Geissele, CMC, or other well-known aftermarket trigger fitted.

Even though the gauge shows a rather light trigger pull, it still has the take-up, creep, and overtravel that you might expect with a Mil-Spec trigger.P1080700

What do I think about the MGS Citizen rifle? It has to be one of the best turn key AR-15s I have had the pleasure to shoot so far. After I was able to unload hundreds of rounds on a 8” plate at a fast pace without breaking a sweat was enough for me to take notice. When Scott shot an incredible group, I was amazed. After the day had ended, the MGS Citizen had eaten 620 rounds of ammo consisting of Wolf, TulAmmo, IWI, Federal, and Fiocchi.

With rifles in this price bracket, it is easy to have high expectations that the rifle sometimes has a hard time living up to. This time, my expectations were that it was going to be a nice rifle but nothing that stands out from a crowd. If I wasn’t wrong again I often am.

If I were in the market for a rifle in this price range, the MGS Citizen would be at the top of my list over even building my own. Whatever magic they worked with this thing is enough to pry a few more dollars than normal out of my hands.

Does anyone want to gift me two grand? I’ll give you a hug and a high five.

MSRP for The Citizen is $1999 as tested; the Aimpoint M4 is not part of the package. Currently, MGS’ website is under development, but you can find their contact information on their website HERE or Facebook HERE to inquire about the Citizen.

Patrick R

Patrick is a Senior Writer for The Firearm Blog and TFBTV Host. He likes guns and has liked shooting guns for as long as he can remember. You can follow Patrick on Instagram @tfbpatrick, Facebook, or contact him by email at

The above post is my opinion and does not reflect the views of any company or organization.


  • A bearded being from beyond ti

    Is it a bad idea to file down the magwell if the magazines are to tight to properly fit?

    • thedonn007

      What lower and mags are you using?

    • Patrick R. – Senior Writer

      I would modify the mags first, not the lower. What mags and lower is giving you the problem?

  • Slab Rankle

    I understand that 3 gun competitors are moving in this direction, with rifle length gas tubes and 16″ barrels. Any group as results oriented as they are should definitely be heeded. Myself, I’d like to see a move to 18″ barrels in the interest of velocity.

    FWIW, I read that Colt developed the carbine length gas tube because they found that having 7″ of barrel ahead of the gas port gave the best combination of features they where looking for.

    I have the Raptor charging handle and Talon ambi selector on my DD-M4 and they are totally worth it versus mil-spec components.

    Still, another manufacturer of boutique ARs is really gilding the lily. They may sell a few hundred a year, maybe. What we need is this level of quality for $700.

    • Gary Kirk

      Pretty sure the carbine length gas system was for the attachment of bayonets on the m4

    • Sunshine_Shooter

      The carbine length gas system was developed for barrels under 16″ to be as reliable as possible (read: overgassed).

      As you said, anyone as results-oriented as 3 gunners need to be watched, and anything they all agree on should be seriously considered.

    • Paul Kersey

      I don’t see how that is possible. The stock assembly, barrel and handguard, retail for more than $700.00.

    • pnw

      What size gas port is used with the 16 & 18″ rifle length systems?

  • JustAHologram

    All that and no backup irons?

    • JT303

      That seems to be a trend with railed ARs that don’t have the front sight tower. I think they do it so that the owner can then put their favourite set of sights (or optic) on the rifle. After all, the customer is always right.

      • JustAHologram

        I know but it just seems wrong not to at least throw on a MBUS set or something when it has that kind of MSRP

        • Uniform223

          While most if not all people call them backups, I call them basic.

        • JT303

          Some companies do. I’d personally like to see some form of sights as standard too, even if owners put em in their drawer of crap.

      • Paul Kersey

        Plus it keeps cost down.

        • Gambler X

          its $2000, what cost are you keeping down?

  • Art out West

    This looks like a great rifle. Still, I think a basic $600 Ruger AR-556 works just fine as a “Citizen Rifle”. I wish a lot more Americans had “Citizen Rifles” like the AR15 (or AK/SKS/Mini-14/Garand/FAL/etc.).
    Clearly this firearm is a big step up from something like the AR-556 or the M&P15 Sport. This is probably more of a gun for “3 gun competitors”, or the “seriously tactical”. Not that there is anything wrong with that.

    • Patrick R. – Senior Writer

      It isn’t an entry rifle for sure. The Citizen would be geared towards more serious shooters looking for a higher-end, refined rifle.

      • Paul Kersey

        I wouldn’t call a rifle with a mil spec trigger that has a lot of creep and over travel a high end refined rifle.

        • Patrick R. – Senior Writer

          I disagree. It shot well enough that the cheapest shooter I know was seriously considering purchasing it.

          It isn’t for everyone, that is clear. But for the type of shooter that is looking for a rifle configured like this, it shoots like a dream.

          • Toxie

            You’re in LMT MRP, Knight’s, LaRue, LWRC, Noveske Territory there, and a few of those offerings have things you can’t add after the fact (E3 bolt, Ambi receivers, switch barrels).
            Now to be fair, I added it up (with some guess work TBH) and It’s not really a bad rip-off, but neither is it a “good deal”, since it’s essentially a parts-bin rifle. I go the priced from the Manufacturer where possible, so prices may be off some (on the high side). I’d also imagine they’re paying dealer prices so their cost is probably lower.
            Trigger: ALG ACT $70.
            AXTS Charging handle and safety: $160
            Barrel: $270
            Rec. set: $220
            Stock kit: $187
            Tango Down Grip: $36
            Fortis switch Barrel nut: $25
            Switch rail: $260
            LPK w/o grip or hammer: $35
            Fortis QD endplate: $23
            Fortis Gas Block $48
            Gas tube: $15
            Fortis Muzzle device w/diverter: $180
            BCG (have to guess, don’t know exact brand): $200
            TOTAL: $1729 (at retail prices).
            IMO, not a bad gun, but some unusual choices in there considering the rarefied air they’re sharing the space with.
            Not how I would have built it (drop that horrendously expensive muzzle device, add a 2 stage trigger and Cerakote that bastard for that price).

        • roguetechie

          So, because forged lowers in non proprietary patterns cost much less than other receivers they aren’t any good?

          Statements like this always amaze me with how many separate factors relevant to determining what makes a receiver better or worse / cheaper or more expensive you have to be ignorant of in order to make statements of this nature.

          Ever wondered why CNC machined from billett receivers are bigger, bulkier, heavier, and more expensive than forged receivers?

          You should probably go read up on why exactly forged receivers are smaller and lighter…

          As far as the cost disparity… Well when raw 0% forgings cost as little to acquire compared to good billetts of a size large enough to machine receivers is part of it.

          Then there’s the fact that 0% forgings require much less machine time, operations, tool wear, and etc.

          If you did look into these things, you’d quickly find out that there’s extremely good reasons why even high end manufacturers use forgings.

    • Paul Kersey

      Except it has cheap trigger installed in a cheap receiver.

      • Patrick R. – Senior Writer

        I wouldn’t say a forged reciever is less optimal. The trigger could be upgraded, sure. But there is nothing wrong with the upper and lower.

  • bobby_b

    There are few significant differences between many available AR’s, and so I think we end up trying to find something to differentiate them, even if what we find isn’t very important.

    That’s why, I think, everyone has to talk about staking the end plate.

    After my tenth build, I no longer stake the end plate. First, given that AR’s are Lego’s and get disassembled at times, staking just means you need to tear up metal when you pull the buffer tube off. Second, I hate fasteners that must be secured in a destructive manner – that, to me, is the essence of cheap. Finally, I’ve never had one loosen up.

    Does anyone disagree? Am I missing something important?

    • thedonn007

      I agree with you. However, I am not a warfighter, nor do I run and gun.

    • Sunshine_Shooter

      If you are using the rifle in a hobby fashion (as I do) then staking anything beyond the gas key is unecessary. If you use it on the job to defend yourself and others on a regular basis, stake everything. Destructive fastening isn’t cheap, it’s permanent.

    • Flounder

      I totally agree with not staking them. If you use a torque wrench and torque it to spec that castle nut is not going anywhere for a long time. Staking a castle nut is almost always overkill in my opinion at least.

    • Paladin

      Correct me if I’m wrong, but shouldn’t threadlocker achieve the same effect? It’s not as though the buffer tube ever really gets hot enough to soften Loctite.

      • bobby_b

        That’s what I’ve been using, and it’s held just fine after several thousand rounds in a couple of guns.

      • Frank Grimes


        You use Aeroshell 33MS on the threads to prevent galvanic corrosion, torque to 40 ft/lb, and stake the end plate into the recess of the castle nut.

        Any other way is wrong.

    • Paul Kersey

      I too found his referring to a “properly staked end” plate to be a little silly. I’ve never had one come loose and as you say, aside from being unnecessary, it looks cheap.
      Also in addition to being more difficult to remove, it requires replacing the castle nut and end plate if you don’t want to put chewed up parts back on your gun.
      While a properly staked gas key is necessary, the castle nut can be tightened sufficiently to hold if you use quality parts.
      The problems almost always come from using cheap out of spec parts.
      Compare a receiver extension tube and castle nut made by Lewis Machine and Tool to the crap being sold at gun shows.
      To the untrained eye, they exactly the same. They aren’t. Good parts cost more money to manufacture.
      Staking the castle nut is something some guys learned in the army but unnecessary unless you are using cheap parts with poorly cut threads.

      • The Brigadier

        Thank you. Excellent explanation.

    • Frank Grimes

      I won’t own a rifle without a staked end plate. I don’t know what would compel someone to continually rip rifles apart either. So there’s not rational reason not to stake the end plate.

      • bobby_b

        “I don’t know what would compel someone to continually rip rifles apart either.”

        Nor do I. But I do know why someone might disassemble a build and make changes. In fact, the ability to do just that is one of the advantages of the platform.

        ” So there’s not rational reason not to stake the end plate.”

        Certainly there is. One of the hallmarks of well-designed machinery is that it doesn’t depend on bending or gouging fatiguable metal as a method of attachment. Proper engineering allows us to disassemble and assemble a machine repeatedly without damage.

        • James Madison

          The notches in the castle nut were designed and engineered PRECISELY for staking thus by not staking you deviate from said engineering and design.

      • roguetechie

        What compels a lot of people, me included, to regularly disassemble and reassemble our guns is being experimentalists, tinkerers, and or just plain not having the cash to own one of everything we want!

        For me, it’s a combination of all three and a fourth less common reason, #4 is that I’m actively developing several items that may end up being sold commercially. Because of this, whenever I go to test a new iteration of something I’m working on I don’t just bring one gun in my preferred configuration to test on. Depending on what I’m testing, and what I’m looking for in the testing can greatly change how I need the test guns to be configured. If I had 10 times my entire actual gun stuff budget that I could use just for test guns, I still wouldn’t be able to get nearly a wide enough selection of complete rifles in fixed configuration to replicate the level of testing I do now.

        • Frank Grimes

          I only have purpose built rifles, I don’t tinker with my rifles anymore than I want to casually rip apart my computer or car. Plus if somebody doesn’t have the money to buy multiple rifles, what are they doing buying a $950 parts guns with a $2000 price tag?

          Not to mention, why one earth would anyone ever want to constantly remove their receiver extension. I understand there are several end plates but none of them are so radically different that it would make even the least bit of sense to be constantly swapping them.

          There is no argument that anyone can provide that could convince me that proper application of Aeroshell, 40 ft/lb of torque on the castle nut, and a staked end plate is even the least bit beneficial on a serious use rifle.

          • bobby_b

            I routinely disassemble both my computer and my car. I’ve switched drives, sound cards, wi-fi, and whatnot on the computer, and I’ve switched out throttle bodies, air intakes, alternators, wheels, clutch parts, wheel bearings, brake components, audio gear, and other stuff on my GTO.

            So, I think we’ll just have to agree that we operate with different philosophies regarding machinery, and let it go at that.

          • Frank Grimes

            I don’t care. I don’t have my rifle as some kind of entertainment system and I don’t have uncontrollable mental compulsions to constantly rip everything apart.

            It’s a tool that I have that would be used if I was unfortunate enough to be in a situation where I have to defend my life from an immediate deadly threat.

            Playing with speakers and shiny bling-blong rims or whatever on your car or putting Mindcraft update parts into your computer is not even remotely the same thing and does not belong in this discussion.

        • James Madison

          That’s a good reason to not stake the castle nut as “properly” is all about context.

          However, if you use the AR as a fighting tool or for competing, training and otherwise actually using the damn thing on a semi-regular basis then there’s a reason why it’s referred to as a “properly” staked castle nut. Context.

      • James Madison

        I hear ya. I use my AR (6920) for tac classes, as a fighting tool, some competitions and I shoot a lot thus I require a properly staked castle nut. It’s a tool, not a Barbie doll to take apart constantly and accessorize…although if that’s your deal and you shoot a few times a year, then don’t stake the damn thing. I get it. Different strokes for different folks.

        But if you actually USE it for it’s intended purpose as a fighting gun and/or you expend a lot of ammo to properly train or compete then properly stake it. No excuses for those in this camp. It’s designed to be staked. Even weapons (Colt, LMT, etc.) using high quality parts, are staked for this reason.

        • Tanner

          Should have read before posting. You summed up my thoughts perfectly.

      • Tanner


        I have one or two “range toys” where it doesn’t matter, but the others are “fighting rifles”.

        And I can tell you that even properly torqued, the un-staked castle nut can back itself off after several hundred rounds, and leave you in the unsettling situation where you bring your rifle up and get a cheek weld, and find yourself staring at your brass deflector instead of your sights. Not a good place to be. Easy enough to correct, but it will slow you down and can cost you your life.

        Staked. Always.

    • Gary Kirk

      Unless you’re giving a horizontal buttstroke and a oohrah.. Then not entirely necessary, however, whatever makes people comfy.. Just my .02, and just to note.. I only use solid stocks on my personal builds.

    • Charlie Cook

      DITO. I was an armorer in Viet-Nam and found that staking just made a part junk instead of repairable.

  • thedonn007

    I agree with you, I hate roll pins. With the modularity of the AR-15, I think you are better off buying a lower with the roll mark you like best and build it up the way you want it.

    • Sunshine_Shooter

      That’s a pretty good idea. What with the plethora of makers out there and all the cool names and logos, it shouldn’t be hard to find something you like and go from there.

  • TDog

    “Citizen rifle.” Because, you know, calling it “The Illegal Alien” just isn’t as sexy…

    • John

      Calling it “The Resident” rifle is just a little too close for Capcom’s lawyers to be comfortable.

      The “National” rifle… well, FN might object to that.

      The “Registered Voter” rifle… might work.

    • kotabu

      The only “Illegal Alien Rifle” I know of is an M41A Pulse Rifle.

  • Uniform223

    That looks high-speed. The only thing I would change on it is the muzzle device. Just give me an A2 style or something similar. I personally believe brakes or compensators are a crutch… a very good crutch.

    • Paul Kersey

      And loud. There is little recoil with a 5.56 so a muzzle break is rediculous.

  • Gary Kirk

    Looks like a tango down battle grip for the pistol grip, very nice pieces, and the gap filler is integral.. Like mine much more than anything magpul has ever produced

  • SP mclaughlin

    Metal Gear Solid rifle?

    • Uniform223

      that was what I was thinking… you can make yourself a really good replica of Solid Snakes M4A1

      • John

        Yeah… but unless it’s a FAMAS, it’s not Solid’s rifle. Hallmark of the series at this point.

  • Flounder

    Excellent review Patrick! A nice and thorough review of a rifle.

  • Nashvone

    If I was going to drop two grand on a rifle, it wouldn’t be a catalog queen that someone else put together with the parts of their choice.

    • Paul Kersey

      Exactly. Build your own and don’t be cheap.

  • jerry young

    Why are you so bent on staking the end plate? do you fire a lot in full auto? that would be the only reason I could come up with for doing this, if you’re having problems with the buffer tube coming loose you have a problem that needs addressed, I like to be able to take my guns apart without destroying small parts, I can see the need for staking the gas key but other than that unless you fire full auto there isn’t much sense in taking a hammer and punch to your guns

    • Trevor

      If you don’t stake you need to use a thread locker. If you use a thread locker you can’t use the TDP prescribed grease on the threads. If you don’t use the grease on the threads you CAN get galvanic corrosion from the high surface area contact of the steel castle nut and the aluminum RE.

      Whether you care is up to you, but that is the way it is. Staking is easy to removing with torque and takes two seconds. I’ll never understand the hate for staking.

      • jerry young

        I have never staked the castle nut on my AR’s and have never had them come loose, use the proper grease and torque with no thread locker and you shouldn’t have a problem unless you fire in full auto there is no need to stake any part other than the gas key, with proper maintenance you check for anything loose and service your weapons accordingly.

        • The Brigadier

          Your last clause makes a very good point Jerry.

    • James Madison

      The primary reason to stake the castle nut is that the notches in the castle nut are DESIGNED to be staked which is what the “properly” in properly staked castle nut refers to. Recoil impulses from full auto, recoil impulses from fast mag dumps semi-auto, slow fire. Doesn’t matter. Any one of those scenarios could potentially loosen a non-staked castle nut. Staking, helps to mitigate the “potential” portion.

      What DOES matter, is the context of “properly”.

      I compete. I train. I shoot quite a bit. At least once a month. Sometimes multi-day tac classes require 1000+ round count. Regardless, I use my AR as a fighting and competing tool as does those that I train/compete with. Instructors of said classes have all been former and/or current .mil including Marines, SFOD-D, etc. Staking the castle nut is like a non-negotiable in those circles. Most that compete: non-negotiable as a failure could result in a DNF. No excuses if you fall into this camp. In this context properly means a staked castle nut. Non-negotiable.

      If you don’t shoot that much and you like to play Barbie dolls with your AR, then there is no reason to stake the castle nut.

      • The Brigadier

        The AR is accurate and light and I don’t have a pony in this stake or not stake race. I bought an AR after avoiding one in the service as much as possible. I got to use bolt action .308’s from various manufacturers mated to a variety of long range scopes. The only reason I own an AR is that several years ago, someone pointed out that the majority of ammo that will available for pickup after the SHTF is 5.56/.223 and 9mm. So while I have 8K rounds in .308 and another 5K of .357 magnum, I went out and purchased an AR and a 9mm CZ. Don’t like either very much, can shoot the hell out of them, but I am bigger bore guy. I appreciate the discussion though. When I run out of ammo, I will stake the castle nut. For now, I’ll wait. My next purchase will be a SCAR heavy with a 19″ bull barrel.

        • James Madison

          I would love to have a SCAR heavy (will probably get one some day). That said I have a SR762 that I’ve been pretty happy with. Running a 1-4x variable on that rifle.

      • jerry young

        Well I said if you shoot in full auto but maybe I should have listed all the reasons for needing to stake but I didn’t and I don’t shoot like that anymore I shoot for fun so I don’t have to worry about that, I’ll bet you’re one of those internet grammar nazzis aren’t you? all worried about the context of properly and spouting your sofd-d and dnf, I guess when you add playing call of duty I can see your need

  • Michael Anderson

    Another heavily overpriced toy with useless bells and wistles. And, BTW, since this is a select-fire rifle, it will never be cerified in rich blue states, so I wonder who is going to buy it except maybe a few cool Texas boys?

    • The Brigadier

      I might be like the Tac-Con select bump fire trigger. Their’s was tested and approved by the ATF. It fires a lot slower than a true select firing AR.