This example of a Ruger SP101 has a 3 inch barrel and is chambered for .357 Magnum. I carried this daily for about 11 years and still do on occasion. As we progress through the photos, you'll notice some of the spots where dirt collects.
REMEMBER the four rules of gun safety:
- All guns are always loaded.
- Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy.
- Keep your finger off the trigger until your sights are on the target.
- Be sure of your target and what is beyond it.
TFB FIELD STRIP: Ruger Revolvers
In this edition of TFB’s Field Strip series, we field strip a Ruger SP101. This process also works on the Ruger GP100, and Super Redhawk models. The process is quite simple. You will need a Flathead screwdriver, and the supplied mainspring hammer pin provided. If you’ve managed to lose that pin, a straightened paperclip will do. Let’s dig in.
This example of a Ruger SP101 has a 3-inch barrel and is chambered for .357 Magnum. I carried this daily for about 11 years and still do on occasion. As we progress through the photos, you’ll notice some of the spots where dirt collects.
First, ensure that the chambers are empty. Once you know the gun is safe, close the cylinder and grab your screwdriver.
Unscrew the grip screw in the center of the grip panels.
Once the grip screw is removed, the panels need to come out of the rubber grip. I like to flex the rubber grip to help the grip inserts to pop out.
Be careful when removing the right grip panel. There’s a factory supplied pin that stores there.
Set the pin aside to use in a bit. Push the fat grip retainer pin out of the grip and set it aside.
Once the grip retainer pin is out of the way, the rubber grip can be pulled down off of the frame.
The mainspring assembly is visible once the grip is removed. Cock the hammer to the rear to expose a hole that the take-down pin will be placed in.
While holding the hammer, pull the trigger and ease the hammer forward. The pin will stop the full travel of the mainspring and will allow the mainspring assembly to be pulled out.
Push the mainspring assembly up toward the hammer, then out through the side of the frame.
Next up is the hammer retaining pin. Put the screwdriver head under the tab of the pin and pry it up. Then remove it from the frame.
Once the hammer retaining pin is gone, the hammer has some extra play. Slightly pull the trigger (not all the way) and pull the hammer up and out of the frame.
The trigger assembly is held in place by a captured spring loaded plunger. Use the screwdriver to depress the plunger. Once the plunger is clear of the frame, coax the assembly downward.
Lightly push the back of the trigger assembly downward with the screwdriver, or pull by hand. The front of the assembly is notched.
Next, flip the gun over and open the cylinder.
The crane and cylinder can be moved forward off the frame. For SP101’s, the cylinder just slides off the crane. However, GP100’s have a captured cylinder.
El fin. Re-assembly is done in reverse order. A very light coat of oil can be done on the trigger mechanism.
I hope this will be helpful to anyone using Ruger SP101, GP100, Redhawk and Super Redhawk models. Since this was a daily carry gun, I occasionally ran a synthetic scrubby pad over the bits that accumulated dirt and grime.
If you have any helpful hints or tricks on field stripping Ruger revolvers, think I missed something or have a question, let us know in the comments section.