$18 Trigger Job from Taylor Tactical Supply

Fortunately for us shooters, there is a veritable plethora of fantastic (and not so fantastic) triggers available for the AR platform. From single-stage, double-stage, assisted reset, and multi-modal bang switches, shooters can customize their weapon to match their needs exactly. Unfortunately, many of those options are rather expensive, especially as features are added. In some cases, trigger packs are more expensive than fully mass-produced rifles.

In to help fix that is Taylor Tactical Supply, a company owned by the competitive shooter Nic Taylor. Rather than focus on physically machining parts, Nic takes the exceedingly simple approach: reduce the trigger pull weight and put in a stop to ensure the trigger pulls no farther than possible.


Its not a new approach, as many of the “upgraded” Glock triggers and similar platforms by reducing the trigger pull weight and pull length. To do that, there are only two components required, a reduced power hammer spring and a trigger adjustment grip screw (which is a novel approach in and of itself). The grip screw has an inset sub-screw that can be adjusted to stop over-travel of the trigger, yielding a faster reset.

Fair warning, the reduced power hammer spring may limit the shooter to using certain ammunition, but reports thus far on it have not shown any adverse effects except for the hardest of primers.

The kit can be picked up from Taylor Tactical Supply for $17.95 or one can opt for the individual components as well. 

Nathan S

One of TFB’s resident Jarheads, Nathan now works within the firearms industry. A consecutive Marine rifle and pistol expert, he enjoys local 3-gun, NFA, gunsmithing, MSR’s, & high-speed gear. Nathan has traveled to over 30 countries working with US DoD & foreign MoDs.

The above post is my opinion and does not reflect the views of any company or organization.


  • dP

    It might be nitpicking, but the screw does not reduce the over travel. It actually reduces the take up / pre travel.

  • thedonn007

    You can do the same thing with a set screw installed before the grip screw. You may need to use a tap or use the set screw as a tap as some grip screw holes are not threaded all of the way through.

  • Devil_Doc

    Ok.. Ijust bought a Rock Island NM trigger. Can TFB do an actual review and tell me if I wasted $80?

    • Michael Lubrecht

      Did you by any chance mean the Rock River Arms NM trigger? I have a couple of those, and they are quite nice. Perhaps not quite as smooth as a high-end Gisselle or Jewell, but mine were crunch free and manipulate well.

      • Devil_Doc

        Yeah, that’s what I meant. Not fully concentrating when I typed that. Lol.. Is this mod going to be better than the RRA 2 stage NM trigger? If so, that’s pretty interesting..

        • Mack

          Rock RIver is one the best bargins for cheap triggers like michael said, it isn’t a premium.

          Rock River is two stage, this trigger mod would be single stage. but the to get the true potential out of this, odds are you would have to modify trigger bar where it interacts with the saftey to get the shortest take up.

          • Purchased a used armalite adjustable 2-stage trigger for 69 on ebay when building my first AR. FOR PRICE, IT IS #1 OF 3. For feel and quality, I’m fighting to topple it to #2 spot. Love the pre and overtravel adjustments on a traditional style 2 stage setup.

    • Vhyrus

      I’ve been buying ALG ACT triggers for all of my ARs for about $70 bucks delivered. I think they are the best deal for the money but I have never used a RRA NM. Anyone have both?

      • Marcus D.

        I have a QMS on my build that cost about $45. It has a very crisp short travel and reset, but is pretty stiff (guessing around 7 or 8 lbs). For five bucks more, it could have a 4 lb pull, and I think it might equal your ACT trigger. Five bucks compared to $150+ for a very good quality drop in sounds like my kind of solution.

        • Vhyrus

          My first build was a QMS, but it was too heavy for me so I bought the JP spring kit and it feels exactly the same as the ACT and costs about the same too. I just buy the ACTs now.

  • Laserbait

    If you have problems with hard primers after installing this, consider dremeling off the tail of the hammer. It will reduce the weight of the hammer, which will increase the speed of the hammer and impart more energy to the firing pin. I did this on my JP trigger with the #3.5 lb spring, and I’ve never had an issue with light strikes.

    • Norm Glitz

      Energy comes from the spring. Lightening the hammer will not increase the energy to the firing pin.

      • Matt Grizz Gregg

        You might wanna tell that to all those manufacturers of light weight hammers. Apparently they’ve been wrong for all these years.

        • Norm Glitz

          Lighter hammers and strikers are for decreased lock time, not increased energy.

      • Laserbait

        Kinetic Energy comes from movement. Once the hammer is moving it has energy. Lightening the hammer increases it’s velocity with the same amount of force placed on it (where acceleration = Fnet / m). Using KE = 0.5 • m • v2, you can see, increasing the velocity has a greater affect on energy, than does mass.

        • Norm Glitz

          First sentence is wrong. Energy can cause movement, it does not come from movement. Second sentence is right, but where did that energy come from? It was stored in the spring. Changing the mass of the hammer will not change the amount of energy. The increase from V2 will be the same as the decrease from the mass.

          I ran a titanium hammer, hammer strut, mainspring cap and firing pin in my bullseye 45 for years, all for the reason of decreasing lock time, not increasing energy.

          • Laserbait

            Energy does come from movement, that’s the precise definition of Kinetic Energy.
            v2 is velocity squared (I couldn’t figure out how to do superscript).

          • BrandonAKsALot

            The energy stored in the spring is potential, not kinetic. He is correct in that statement that the kinetic energy is directly related. Impulse also is a key factor in all this as well.

          • Norm Glitz

            Before the hammer is released by the sear, the only energy in the system is that stored by the spring. As the spring accelerates the hammer, it’s converted to kinetic energy. No more energy is created, regardless of the mass of the hammer. When the hammer impacts the firing pin or the primer, the energy of the hammer is transferred to the primer, setting it off.

            The mass of the hammer cannot create or destroy energy. The only energy in the system before sear release is that stored in the spring. Lightening the hammer can only speed things up. It cannot increase or decrease the energy.

          • Laserbait

            That’s incorrect. Lightening the hammer increases the speed of the hammers acceleration, which translates to a higher velocity in the same distance. Increasing the hammers velocity increases its KE.

          • Norm Glitz

            Completely incorrect. You cannot create energy, only transform it. The only energy in this system is stored in the wound up hammer spring.

          • Laserbait

            Prove it. I (and hundreds of thousands of physicists) already proved that it does. Show us the math that proves what you’re saying.

          • Norm Glitz

            Here’s all the math you need: zero. That’s how much energy can be created or destroyed.

          • Laserbait

            I never said anything about creating or destroying energy. So you fail at reading comprehension, math and physics.

          • Norm Glitz

            “Increasing” energy means creating, does it not?

          • Laserbait

            No, look it up. Sheesh. Do you really believe that the spring imparts 100% of it’s energy to the hammer at a 0% loss?

          • Norm Glitz

            Of course there’s friction. That doesn’t destroy energy, it transforms energy into a negligible amount of heat.

            Reread this thread if you’re having problems. Your first post said that reducing the weight of the hammer will impart more energy to the primer. “More energy” implies creating. Can’t do that. The only available energy is what’s stored in the spring. No more, no less. Minus the negligible friction loss, of course.

          • Laserbait

            Norm, you’re having the problem. Increasing does not equal creating. What about about the energy that used converting PE to KE? Read some physics books on the two forms of energy, and come back when you can discuss it intelligently.

      • BrandonAKsALot

        It would really depend on the relationship of the mass and acceleration of the hammer. It’s the most basic physics formula: force= mass *acceleration. You are decreasing the mass, but increasing the acceleration, so it may or may not help depending on the relationship between the two.

  • ozzallos .

    $3.07 s&h to AZ. first class mail. Not too bad.

  • Mack

    Not a bad price. Nice they put it in a package. Love this guys videos.

    Ive been doing
    JP Springs- 14$
    Set Screw from hardware store – .50 cents
    Shorter grip screw from hardware store – .50 cents
    Little mill work to trigger bar and hammer.
    Some locktite.

    So not much of a difference

  • Bought something like this a year or more ago. Didn’t work on my PSA lower – non fullly drilled/threaded grip hole disallowed intended use.

    • Norm Glitz

      Taps are cheap. 1/4-28.

  • RickOAA .

    I’ve achieved a 4lb pull with a rp trigger spring, one side of the hammer spring chopped, the disconnector spring clipped, and the “speed hammer” mod. For a budget build, donchaknow. It even works with various types of 5.56. Some day I may get a real hammer spring. The fifteen minute or $5 trigger job has been around for at least a decade. Good to see someone capitalize on it…I guess.

  • DwnRange

    A set of JP springs from MidwayUSA is actually cheaper ($10.49 +shipping)

    • Laserbait

      But they lack the trigger adjustment screw setup.