FrogLube is Probably Made From Coconut Oil (Not Frogs)


Last month Andrew Tuohy published a blog post comparing FrogLube with two other lubricants TrackLube+ (a rollercoaster lubricant) and Seal1, another gun lube. He commissioned a infrared spectroscopy analysis of the three lubes and found they were virtually identical chemically, despite being different in color and smell.

Meanwhile Schnips at North Eastern Shooters was also investigating Floglube. He asked his brother, a Chemistry PhD student at UConn, to run at IR Spectrometer over Froglube and compare it to other oils. They discovered that Froglube is coconut oil plus a small amount of additives. Aside from the obvious Froglube smell, forum users speculate it also contains additives to prevent the oil from solidifying in cooler weather. Coconut oil has a relatively high melting point of 76 degrees (24 celcius).



Frugube have always been upfront that their product is 100% bio-based with no synthetic components. If you are happy with Froglube keep using it. This analysis changes nothing. Straight coconut oil (no additives) is probably not a good alternative to Froglube if you (unless you live in the tropics).


If you want a cheaper alternative, you can’t beat synthetic motor oil for price. Many people claim it performs just as well as any expensive gun oil. I can’t help but wonder if we are hitting “peak gun oil”. The market is saturated with gun oil brands. They all work well, as do non gun specific oils.

Thanks to Andrew (another Andrew) for the tip.



Steve Johnson

Founder and Dictator-In-Chief of TFB. A passionate gun owner, a shooting enthusiast and totally tacti-uncool. Favorite first date location: any gun range. Steve can be contacted here.


  • Spencerhut

    I’m sticking with Slip2000 Gun Lube, Slip2000 EWL and Mobile1 grease until something better comes out.

  • BattleshipGrey

    All this time I’ve been thinking Joe Cartoon was on to something.

  • Coconut oil costs more per gallon then it’s equivalent in synthetic motor oil, so I see no problem with Froglube. Not like they’re marketing low calorie water or anything.

    • Jwedel1231

      Re-read the part about the melting point of coconut oil. In anything under 76 Fahrenheit, it will want to solidify. The additives may make it stay liquid longer, but your base material will be trying to turn to goop.

    • DB

      A good rub every few days of frog lube on the EXTERIOR metal of my carry never see any rust, and I live in the Deep South, sweat central! However I would never use it on the internals, seems that it has a want to get thick and build up after a few applications. That’s where the Valvoline comes in…one and done, and it doesn’t take much. Everything slicker than a rooster in red wool socks!

      • Phillip Cooper

        You really need to try it on the internals. I live in Charleston, SC- so similar weather to you- and just don’t have a problem with it.

  • allannon

    Well, I’ve had really good luck with flaxseed oil for seasoning my cast iron. Coconut oil is fairly popular for CI seasoning, so I guess a nonstick coating is a nonstick coating.

    I’m not going to experiment with seasoning my skillets and AR parts at the same time quite yet, though.

  • I like grease and a squirty bottle of CLP or Rem Oil for when things get sluggish. No real reason to use anything fancier.

    • Robert Rodriguez

      But what if you have a hankerin for some good ol’ deep fried AK like mom used to make? 😉

      • Hinermad

        For an AK? Take it down to the ten minute oil change place and dunk it in the used oil tank, then wipe off the excess with an old newspaper.

        • Robert Rodriguez

          Way to kill the joke man. Way to kill the joke…

    • displacer

      I use valvoline moly wheel bearing grease, cut with a drop of CLP when it’s a little too thick for a particular gun or it thickens up absorbing carbon and other assorted crap. Worked great for years even in freezing temps, only guns I’ve tried that doesn’t like it are semi .22s and some gas powered tube-fed shotguns

      • DB

        I’m with you…can’t beat Valvoline moly wheel bearing grease! A can of that and you’re good to go on anything, forever! And as you stated, a little high end oil of your choice, it’s custom.

        • Hinermad

          I use Coastal high temp moly grease on slide rails & such, because that’s what the local car parts places sell. Lockwork gets Rem Oil or Ballistol, and exteriors get wiped down with Ballistol. Generally if it slides it gets grease and if it rotates it gets oil.

      • Phillip Cooper

        To make it easy to use (I used to use it before I went to froglube, and stil luse it on other small machinery) get one of those small handheld greaseguns- not the sort that mechanics use, it’s literally a thumb-pumped grease gun. Works great!

    • I use a lite grease recommended by Fulton Armory and Sadlak who know a thing or two about the M1/M14. They advise never use oil on an M1/M14.
      Wilson lite oli otherwise.

      • gunsandrockets

        How does that compare to lithium grease?

        • Moly grease has small amounts of molybdenum disulfide in it which makes the grease kind of expensive in higher concentrations. It helps with higher heat resistance and prevents it from breaking down in applications under stress or loads like in gearboxes or bearings (wheel bearings, or other sealed bearings and gear sets like on power tools or in industrial gear boxes). Lithium greaseis a general purpose grease for lubricating during assembly or on moving parts. I don’t recommend it for firearms because it can dry out and gum things up.

    • Sulaco

      I took down my Kahr last week after I noticed it was “gummy” and hard to rack. I had been using CLP, albeit a very old bottle of CLP like 7 – 8 yrs old and it had developed the consistency of soft pencil erasers in the rails, springs and around the barrel. It was also very hard to get off. Up until that time I swore by CLP but now I am not so sure, just age or has it been doing this all the time and frequent cleanings masked the problem? Sticking with Rem oil for now.


        CLP is partly derived from paraphyn (spelling?) wax when it gets old the other chemicals start to dry out and your essentially left with candle wax on your gun. You see it alot on guns that have sat with no love for a while. They will develop a gummy wax like build up. I’d chuck your older stuff and make sure that there isnt any buildup on your internals especially your trigger components.

        • Sulaco

          Ya I figured that could be a problem and flushed those spots with Hoppies…

          • Raven

            I’ve heard that a good spray of brake cleaner will blast out gummy lube residue.

          • robertsgunshop

            Be sure to use the non-chlorinated brake cleaner. It dries pretty fast and doesn’t leave a residue. I use it when customers bring me guns that were last cleaned in 1947. Watch when spraying it into receivers and other ares that it doesn’t blow back on your face. Always wear eye protection.

            I’m a Frog Lube dealer and I use it on all of my personal guns. So far I haven’t had any complaints. Both of my AR’s run just fine. If you follow the instructions for the first application, it’s just as good as anything on the market. And it has a fresh minty smell.

          • That stuff works great and I’ve used it for years, but be careful not to get that brake parts cleaner on anything plastic or rubber. Polymer is fine, but on regular plastic or rubber like grips it will either stain it or leave a residue you can’t clean off (ask me how I know). Get the plastic safe stuff.

          • robertsgunshop

            I learned that same lesson. In some cases, it will even melt some plastics.

          • Phillip Cooper

            This is precisely what I do with any new gun. It removes the shipping grease and then I lube with an appropriate lube- in my case, Froglube.

            I’ve got several guns that have set in my safe untouched for over a year, as well as my CCW, all use froglube, without issues.

        • Holdfast_II


        • Norm Glitz

          “a lot”

      • The same thing happened to my 1911 with FrogLub after about 3 months in the safe. Gummy and hard to rack. Cleaned it off and used Ballistol, haven’t had a repeat since.

        • Jeff Markle

          Because you used too much froglube. When you follow directions you won’t have problems with froglube.

          • Haywood Jablome

            I agree. Have an old Armalite AR that used to jam after about 200 rounds unless I re-lubed it. Changed to Frog Lube and took it to a class where I ran over 500 rounds through without a single problem I hear people slam FL all the time, but I have more than 10000 rounds shot through my various guns in weather from 10 to 95 degrees without a single problem. Don’t like it? Don’t use it…but I would guess user error is the problem 99% of the time!

          • I did follow directions, and used a very like cote, to expensive to slop it on. I have also tested it by warming it and applying in small amounts. Same results.

          • Jeff Markle

            if you are having problems and you think you arent putting too much on; you are.

      • Shawn Shahan

        My Glock 34 and my Sig Nightmare were so gummed up from using frog lube that I threw 2 entire over priced bottles away. I’ll stick with Tri flow.

        • James Madison

          I’ve had pretty good luck with Frog Lube so far (Les B TRS, Glock 19) but I’ll keep an eye on it.

          I use the Frog Lube that comes in the can and a really light coating FWIW.

          • Haywood Jablome

            I agree with Jeff…I think people think more is better and don’t follow the directions. I love the stuff….

        • Jeff Markle

          Stop using too much and you won’t have that problem. Reading directions helps a lot.

    • Chris

      I use elephant sperm

      • heathjayman

        how do you collect it? Show them naught pachynography movies and wait?

    • Core

      You should try Krazy Grease, but don’t get it on your skin. It’s a marine grade grease made with a friction modifier they use during the initial assembly of ultra high rpm helo gearboxes. It lasts up to several years before breaking down versus months with standard bearing grease.

  • G0rdon_Fr33man

    What I do know is that FL does not work on guns with a tight fit. After a few weeks in storage it gunks up and make the gun inoperable. Just the same in very cold climate.

    • smartacus

      i don’t wanna speak to soon, but i may have had the same happen to me with BreakFree

    • JSmath

      How inoperable? Like, spectrum of sometimes it causes a jam 1 to your gun will blow up when you look at it wrong, unchambered 10.

      I put some (okay, a lot) on my AR buffer spring and the thing actually sounded/felt even better after sitting for two months. If Froglube IS coconut oil, I imagine that it gets gunky because of the oil spoiling. Maybe it’s bad where oil should be, but alright where grease can be?

      • G0rdon_Fr33man

        Slide moving so slow it causes a jam. Again, only on tight fit hand guns. My Glock and CZs like FL just fine.

        • R H

          Funny you say that,. I was in the CGW shop a while back, and they were showing me a CZ that they were in the process of clearing the FL gunk from. Of course I can’t be sure of how it was applied (it was sent to the shop like that), but I suspected it was put on too thick and/or not heated properly. It looked pretty bad, but idk if the gun functioned like that or not. I’ve heard from other gunsmiths that “less is more” is pretty much the golden rule of FL. But I have 0 experience with the stuff.

          Personally, I like to clean all my gun parts in Ballistol, wipe them down, and let that teflon-like coating do its thing. After I’ve cleaned a gun a few times with the Ballistol, it definitely seems to “condition” the parts to where the carbon just wipes right off.

          • law-abiding-citizen

            My 240s last deployment did the same thing with Outer’s. Before each flight, I’d pull the bolt assembly on each gun, spray a couple shots of Tri-Lube into the body & a couple on the bolt assembly, including the piston, then reassembled & cycled them manually a few times.
            Post-flight, pull the bolts out & wipe them down. Carbon came right off. Gotta LOVE silicone-based gin lube. As an added bonus, not only did it not collect nearly as much dust and crap as CLP did, & it didn’t gel in the cold or varnish/gum up in the heat. Outer’s is all I use on my guns now. If it was good enough to get me, my guns, & the guys I flew with home safely, it’s good enough for my personal firearms.

      • Rick5555

        It’s not necessary to lube the buffer spring. If the sound the OEM spring makes bothers you. I would advise getting a Tubb’s Flat Wire Spring. Which cost about $25. However, you’ll probably never have to change out your buffer spring….ever. The Tubb’s spring states, it’s rated for 500k full compressions before it wears out. Also, the Tubb’s gets rid of that annoying twang sound…the $25 is worth that in its self.

        • Do you have one? I’very done more reading about them than necessary, and still skeptical.

          • Rick5555

            Yes I have a Tubb’s Spring in ALL my AR’s. That’s how highly I think of them. A few of those AR’s are also, running a Spike’s Tactical T-2 (heavy) buffer…and no issues. And that twang sound is completely eliminated. BTW I have 8 AR’s of various barrel lengths. I run a normal milspec buffer spring in my 20″ barrel. The tubes works fine in an 18″, 10″, 8.5″ etc. A 20″ barrel would probably work. You won’t be disappointed if you get the Tubb’s. I found mine at Midway. And no I don’t work for Tubbs or even in the firearm industries. I’m a surgeon.

        • DB

          Damage Industries makes a Chrome Silicon buffer spring that usually is around $10.00, supposed to be good for 750K rounds, (they say) but it smooths things out, no spring bounce I can tell and makes it a quiet running weapon, no “twang” as you said. Not trying the “I got something better than you” business, I do use the flat wound in a few of my AR’s depending on how hard it’s getting hit, and they do great also. Just some info, and they work great, and a cheaper replacement that works way better over a stock spring. And I don’t lube ’em! Thought I should add that!

        • JSmath

          I’m aware it’s not necessary to lube it. I’ll continue to do it anyway, because it has yet to cause a stoppage or failure or undue wear.

    • mcameron

      you need to treat FL like grease…..even the liquid CLP… cannot use it like oil.

      just about everyone that complains about FL jamming their guns has their gun slathered in it…..

      you only need a TINY amount, the gun should appear almost dry.

      ive run my guns with FL in well bellow freezing temps and have never had an issue.

  • Mike N.

    Nothing wrong with Froglube, Fireclean, or any these gun oils, except for the marketing claims and outrageous price per ounce. Kinda like the various bike lubes.

    • Uniform223

      I’m surprised a former USN SEAL member hasn’t stepped forward and said that it was his idea/creation to gain more fame for the teams… I kid I kid!

    • BrandonAKsALot

      At least coconut oil is already pricey, so the price isn’t jacked up so much.

      • Jwedel1231

        At least FireClean doesn’t solidify into a solid below 75 degrees F.

        • BrandonAKsALot

          Calm down there Vickers. I’ve heard the low functioning temp on it isn’t nearly as low as some, but from what I understand, most complaints about it were it being caked on and causing issues when it’s supposed to be a very fine application. I used the frog grease and I like it. I’m not really dedicated to any lube type, but I like the non toxic aspect.

  • Giolli Joker

    At least it’s a healthier oil than canola (if not chemically processed).

    • Texas Lawman

      Canola oil, also known as “rapeseed” oil.

  • mechamaster

    If they made it with Castor-bean oil, I think it’s possible.
    I hear the story that Japanese soldier in WW2 always lube their firearms and war machine with castor oil, and even trying to produce biodiesel-fuel from it.

    • G0rdon_Fr33man

      Castor beans are also the main ingredient of Ricin. Among the most potent toxins on the planet.

      • Giolli Joker

        My first thought.
        Bracelets made with castor beans are known for having caused poisoning of unaware wearers.
        Apparently castor oil is not toxic, though, and it has uses in the food industry as well.

        • Rick5555

          Castor Oil can be obtained in any Pharmacy. Many physicians had their patients use castor oil, to clean out the GI track, when preparing to conduct a colonoscopy procedure. You literally feel the oil going down the GI track like a glue. Though mineral oil is used today. If you di ingest castor or mineral oil. I highly advise being by a toilet for 4-8 hours. Or else you will definitely “sh*t in your pants.”

    • LG

      Durring WW1, the standard lubricant for aircraft rotary, not radial, engines was castor oil. It’s lubricating properties at high temperatures was superior to the paraffin based oils of the day. The major problems were:
      1) After intense heating the castor oil tended to gel, so it had to be removed from the engines immediately after landing.
      2) The fumes from exhausted castor oil inhaled and adhering to the skin had a rather deleterious effect upon the GI tract of the pilots and observers.
      But if one keeps on inventing the wheel, it may turn out square. Just go to a good automotive or aerospace engineering handbook for the precise viscosity and lubricity at temperature desired.

  • DannyBoyJr

    Hey, I live in the Tropics. Maybe I can use straight coconut oil in my revolver and semi-auto…

    • Jwedel1231

      Just don’t expect them to run in anything cooler than 76 F.

      • DannyBoyJr

        We don’t usually go under 80 degrees F in the tropics. It’s currently 84 degrees F right now, and will probably hit the 90s by noon.

  • FightFireJay

    Can we stop recomending alternative oils that are carcinogens? Not to mention petroleum distillates are sensitizers.

    At least recomend fireclean, i mean vegetable oil.

    • Mobil 1 Motor Oil 0W20 and 0W30 does not contain carcinogens according to US Dept of Health database:

      Burning it on the other hand I don’t know (not sure if they produce polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons)

      • FightFireJay

        As a former mechanic, if I touch motor oil or most “conventional” gun oils, my body reacts almost immediately with allergy like symptoms.

        Nearly all petroleum distillated are sensitizers, toxic, and most contain carcinogens either in the base stock or the additives.

        But by all means, please continue to recomend products that have caused John Hodgkins lymphoma in my peers.

        • Seriously, you should get in touch with Dept of Health. If you are right and I am wrong, they are spreading seriously incorrect information.

        • n0truscotsman

          Dosage. Its all about dosage.

          The lead in your ammunition and firing your rifle/pistol/shotgun would profoundly affect you far more (especially if you shoot indoors) than the additives in any gun oil or lubricant…

    • Evan

      That’s one reason why I switched to Froglube. If the package says “use in well ventilated area” or “use gloves/wash off immediately” for non-gun specific oil or grease, or if it gave me a headache simply having it open cleaning my guns, I was always a little leery of vaporizing it right next to my face.

    • Chris

      I’ve heard lead is harmful too.

      Watch out for that red meat and sunlight. The scotch I swim in isn’t probably all that healthy either.

  • BrandonAKsALot

    Can you believe these companies using triglycerides for lubricants? How heinous!

    • iksnilol



    • OldNorthState

      Gasp! And did you know “Fluid Film” is made from… from…. my god…. SHEEP’s WOOL!!!! Now they’re not only busting open once-living coconuts…. they’re even squeezing the sap out of some poor sheep! Why not just carry a sheep or even a coconut around with you to wipe your weapon down, and not be so barbaric?

      • Phillip Cooper

        Thank you, thank you, thank you! Totally agree!

      • Bill

        If it sounds stupid and works, it isn’t stupid.

      • BrandonAKsALot

        Down with big lube! They are monsters and must be stopped!

        • Edeco

          *power fist gesture*

      • OldNorthState

        Late coming back into this, but I should have disclosed what lube I use: the one I humorously referenced in my first paragraph, above: “Fluid Film” … I’ve never had a firearm gum up from it, and it’s “slick as h*ll” on rails, etc. In fact, I have cans of this (at least 3 full, unused, and 2 that have been in use since 1980, literally, (a little of this stuff goes a long way… if just used in typical fashion with firearms, expect a can of it to last for years) wherein the material is as fresh and effective as it ever was, with no discernable change. Even the valves and expellent pressure have maintained themselves, in part because of the apparent preservative effect the material has on plastics as well as metal. It’s the best overall material I’ve ever used on a firearm for lubrication and corrosion protection, and it is multi-use – it can even be used on beautiful gunstocks, furniture finishes and leather, though it’s original formulation targeted corrosion control and lubrication of metals. It’s not a high powered/low flash point solvent (it’s not made from petroleum, either), so I use a soaking of G96 Gun Treatment as a cleaner/solvent/pre-treatment in the bore with a patch or two and then dry-patched out (the G96 is a petroleum-based, good CLP-class product, though it’s a very low viscosity liquid and won’t “hold” on rails/action for lubrication nearly as well as the Fluid Film) , followed by a light Fluid Film patching in bore, and very light Fluid Film wipedown of exterior metal surfaces and even the polymer frame if the mood strikes me. With the exception of some very occasional copper and/or lead removal with Shooter’s Choice (depending upon weapon.. I don’t run lead bullets in the Glocks… and Shooter’s Choice is a pretty toxic chemical compound by my estimation, and I don’t like handling it very often), that’s the procedure for all of my firearms.

  • Dave

    Transmission case bearing grease is still the best lubricant for any firearm if temperature isn’t an issue, if it is an issue, transmission case bearing track oil is the best lubricant.

  • Tassiebush

    Awesome topic. Good to hear about engine oil.

  • Don Ward

    It’s just about spring here in the Pacific Northwest and by the noise the frogs are making in the creek behind my house, they don’t need any lube.

    • Maybe if you lubed them they would stop making all that noise.

      • Don Ward


  • 2hotel9

    I have said it before, science is your friend. Unless your are an advertising hack huckstering snakeoil.

    • mcameron

      i dunno….i wouldnt call FL “snake oil”… does exactly what its advertised to do……

      and they state its all natural… of course its going to be some type of plant based oil…….nothing really new or shocking here

      • 2hotel9

        I am addressing the overall state of “ripoffism” permeating the gun industry of late. And thank you very much I will stick to petroleum products, they work. In a pinch I will go with some animal fat substitute, I’ll skip the greenyweenie crap. Coconut oil is for cooking and too expensive to be putting on other stuff.

  • Jambo

    Frog lube is fine if you like it. I still use CLP, though lately that Slip2000 stuff has been working good. I don’t mind CLP running all over the place, since that’s what I know. All in all, this isn’t comparative to the Crisco scandal, since it isn’t just a marked up product from an other source. The roller coaster oils are actually more expensive than Frog Lube, and even if Frog Lube is just coconut oil, it apparently doesn’t behave like it. Unlike FireClean, it seems some work actually went into it.

    However, you can cook your eggs with FireClean, so there’s that.

  • Bill

    I gotta check my gun’s cholesterol, HDL & LDL.

    I need Tadpole lube for my pocket guns and .22s

    Maybe I’ll just pour all the oils, lubes and greases I’ve accumulated over the years into one big vat and let them fight for supremacy.

  • Kelly Harbeson

    I have used Ballistol pre-mix for the last 40 of its 110 year existence. Works perfectly fine and it can be used on guns that are dripping wet with water. Nothing else can do that!

    • R H

      Yep! I’m firmly on the Ballistol bandwagon! I like it because it’s simple (1 product instead of 2 or 3), it’s got tons of uses, and it’s safe for my family, pets, wood, leather, plastic, pretty much anything. I keep cans around the house, in my range bag, in my truck, at my parent’s house. I’ve used it for all kinds of stuff from cleaning/lubing guns to protecting leather and even greasing a squeaky hinge. It’s basically replaced WD40 for me, with the added benefit of being able to use it on my guns.

      Also, it’s funny you mentioned the part about the water. I’ve been using it on my VP9 from the day I bought it, and when I did a very crude “water test” I couldn’t get it to malfunction (I was looking for a @militaryarmschannel style malfunction). Full disclaimer: we used bottled water, and poured it into the gun as opposed to dunking it, but we tried all kinds of ways to fill the striker channel up with water and it still fired 100%.

      I was curious if the lack of fine sand was the difference maker, or if MAYBE the emulsification properties of the Ballistol gave it a bit of a leg up. Honestly, I think it was the lack of sand, but I’m really holding out on hope that my VP9 isn’t as fragile as it looked in the MAC testing. I plan on doing a test similar to his in the near future (with a real camera to record the results).

    • Spencerhut

      I can’t stand the smell.

  • PeterK

    I like how you’re all “we’ve hit peak gun oil, now let’s reveal some trade secrets so there will be more knockoff oils!” 😉

  • Joe

    I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again infrared spectroscopy is NOT a quantifiable method for molecule (let alone mixture) identification. It, in most applications, is a qualitative analysis of moieties. While coconut oil very well could be the precursor to frog lube, they could have done numerous chemical transformations (hydrolysis, hydrogenation, end group modification) that would have a huge impact on its performance. It also won’t detect any inorganic additives that may be present.

    I’m not defending frog lube nor do I use it (crap smells too nasty and gives me a headache), but IR spec is not the end all be all identification tool.

    • Edeco

      Since you mention it I’ve been suspecting aliasing, to use the term loosely, in this and the Crisco thing. I’ve never been fully up to speed on the test, so couldn’t myself say for sure if it’s possible…

    • anwatkins

      IR spectroscopy is not a complete tool for identification, but coupled with the NMR spectra below it leads to fairly conclusive evidence that the majority is coconut oil. If the oil had been processed and changed (for example, with the methods you mentioned above), then the positions and (probably) splitting of the largest peaks in the NMR would have changed. There are additives (a small extra peak at ~5.25 ppm, the peak at 2 ppm and at 3.9 ppm), but these are quite small and would constitute a very small portion of the mixture. NMR is very quantifiable for this type of work, even though the integration of the peaks is not shown.

      Oh, and you make a good point about inorganic additives, which would not be detected with the NMR either unless they contained hydrogen.

      Just another observation….

      • Core

        It looks similar to Canola oil. I’m not convinced spectrum analysis is being done properly.

    • Jeff Markle

      Froglube gives you a headache?

  • borekfk

    High-temp wheel bearing grease for older designs, and CLP for stuff designed after WW2 is what I do. That and I bought the $8 container of grease for a rifle I no longer own so I figured I might as well use it for something.

  • Xeno Da Morph


  • Theo Braunohler

    Who cares? It is being processed and refined in a number of ways. That is the part you are paying for.

    Newflash: Breakfree CLP and Hoppe’s is made from petroleum, pistol slides are made from steel bar stock and hamburgers are made from cow and wheat.

    • Treyh007

      Well said…… I think people are getting a lil silly over these gun oils! Use what works for you, who cares what everybody says!

      • heathjayman

        Ant Man and Deadpool swear by KY lube.

    • uisconfruzed

      Breakfree is synthetic, not petroleum.

      • Phillip Cooper

        Lots of supposedly “synthetic” lubes actually do come from petroleum- greatly refined petroleum, but petroleum nonetheless. Looking at Castrol Syntec, among others..

        • squareWave

          True. In automotive circles there’s never ending debate about what qualifies as “synthetic.” Purists argue that Group III oils, which originate from natural fossil oil, can never be “synthetic.” I disagree though. It may start off as dino oil, but industrial chemists break down and rearrange the polymers into entirely novel forms, and that counts as synthetic if you ask me.

          As for FrogLube, I was intrigued enough to try it when it first came out. I didn’t care for the bone dry slide, and didn’t want to depend on heat supposedly bringing the lube out of the “pores” of the metal. Back to regular old oil for me, either synthetic motor oil or “gun” oil.

          • Core

            Try FrogLube paste. Make sure you strip all petro and other oils before you apply the paste.

      • jcitizen

        If you mean CLP – the formula has definitely changed since I was in the service. It doesn’t act or smell the same at all.

        • uisconfruzed

          The smell is quite different.

  • A Fascist Corgi

    If anyone is looking for a new gun oil, I recommend Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil. I first heard about it from the owner of Battlefield Vegas when he was posting about the reliability of firearms at his gun range. In my opinion, it strikes the perfect balance between grease and oil. I didn’t like using grease because I was paranoid about it being too thick and causing jams, and I didn’t like oil because it dripped everywhere and made a mess. The Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil stays where you put it but still feels like it’s close to reaching its melting point. It even smells nice. I still use Break-Free CLP when cleaning, Hornady One Shot TAP HD-Extreme if I’m really worried about corrosion, and G-96 Gun Treatment in cold weather.

    • No. No one is looking for a new gun oil.
      You say so yourself… you recommend Lucas but then use Break-Free and other products. So WTF good is that “recommendation”? Because we all do the same…. We all have bunch of other bottles of stuff half or 3/4 full on our shelves.

      • law-abiding-citizen

        Save your energy – your trying to reason with a guy that puts so much oil on his gun it “drips everywhere”, then complains about a situation he’s caused.

      • A Fascist Corgi

        Your comment makes absolutely no sense.

        • Your low reading comprehension level is not my problem.

          • A Fascist Corgi

            Or maybe I just don’t understand the incoherent ramblings of someone clearly suffering from Alzheimer’s disease.

    • DB

      Sounds good, but I don’t “Sniff” my guns!

  • David

    Breakthrough Clean works well for me, no gimmicks either.

  • Ratcraft

    Hoppes in the morning Hoppes in the evening Hoppes in the afternoon.

  • Joseph Smith

    “The market is saturated with gun oil brands.”
    I see what you did there!

  • So I can rub down my raise and my wife at the same time? Which first?: Daewoo K2 or Denise?

  • gunsandrockets

    There is no Santa Claus.

  • tropicalspeed

    Frog Lube is bad. It thickens and gums up everything. If you want to try it, I’ll give you some.

  • irongrampa

    I use silicone spray, available at any auto parts outlet. We hunt in wet (waterfowl), cold (deer) and muddy (all the above) and it works extremely well.

    The guns run slick and because it’s “dry” they don’t collect so much crap.

    Bonus is cleaning them is much easier.

  • 338Lapua

    rem oil is the way to go. Good hot, good cold

  • Bronson

    I wonder why there isn’t as much hate for Froglube as there was for Fireclean?

    • Andrew Dubya

      I suspect the majority of the hate for Fireclean was because fat man Vickers was touting it as “Gurr durr the best out there. Look at my cred” while the test videos were showing that they used different ammo while testing. Having said that I didn`t look too far into the whole Fireclean debacle because frankly, I don`t use it. Hoppes stuff has always worked fine for me, plus it`s the only stuff stocked locally.

  • Diver6106

    But can you now use it as an emergency ration, since it is the same as coconuts? Or just add Rum and it’s PARTY TIME… the frog will add protein… We’ll have the next BUD/S Class check it out. – 82

  • As with Fireclean being made from canola oil, I have no problem with Froglube being made from coconut oil as its main ingredient.

    That is as long as those are not their only ingredients… If they have other active ingredients for corrosion resistance, etc I’m fine. Froglube says right on its label its food grade.

    Would any of us stop using Hoppe’s because it’s made from kerosene?

  • Xavier

    When Granny got a painted .38 Special last summer, I contacted Charter Arms to see what type of cleaner they recommended. The PR lady said she used FrogLube, so we got a bottle and have been pleased so far. I know that a gun that smells like peppermint isn’t for everyone, but I can clean it on the kitchen table without listening to complaints about petroleum fumes and it really does seem to work well – cleaning time is greatly reduced. I haven’t been able to bring myself to use it on the Man Guns though.

  • Pete Sheppard

    Then there’s the episode of “Alaskan Bush People” where hot chicken fat was poured from the skillet into a rifle’s action and called lube…

  • Stuart Dodman

    Use WD40 for cleaning-not lubricating. When serving I always seemed to get stuck with cleaning the MAG gas parts, a real pig of a job. Easy if you use rust eater gel though, the gel just eats fouling.

  • uisconfruzed

    I used Frog Lube until a newer AR went click instead of bang when cold. Popped the fwd assist & it ran after that. Went back to synthetic oil.

  • Liston Matthews

    I know of a soldier in the USAMU who uses synthetic motor oil.

  • Vanns40

    A qt. of Mobil One 10w30 goes a really long way for the price. I started using it when I was shooting Bullseye competition and those 1911’s needed a LOT of lube to run right. Kept right on using it with everything from Glock to full auto. I have never had a problem using it for lubrication or cleaning. Money is always better in my pocket than someone else’s.

  • Evan

    I use CorrosionX. It smells like CLP, costs about the same, and I love how it works.

  • tarnishedcopper

    I wish I could still find Browning Gun Oil. It was some of the finest I have ever found. The synthetic motor oil works very well. I also use plain old mineral spirits as cleaning solvent. It’s what the PD uses. For internals like the rebound slides in S&W revolvers there is no good substitute for a pinhead size bit of Outers Gun Slick- the black graphite grease.

    • jcitizen

      A lot of people have sworn for years that a bit of that Outers Gun Slick is the ideal action lube for AR rifles too. I’ve heard that every since Vietnam. I’ve never tried it myself.

  • jcitizen

    As far as general operating and rust prevention, I’ve never used anything better than Weapons Grade Medium oil. This Army surplus item has become rare since WW2, but I’ve even found collector cans of it, that is still in top condition. It never gets acidic, so no matter how old it is, it will still protect the steel of any weapon forever. I’ve been using it since I was a kid, and later in the service, even though it was disappearing from the supply system back then. You could leave an M2 HBMG in a vault for 10 years, and never see it dry up, and no rust what so ever, even in high humidity. I have a theory that is does stain grey parkerized finish over time, and that is actually what caused the green look of older oxide coats in weapons of that time. This oil is thick enough to act as the actual operating oil for any weapon, and seems to maintain viscosity at any temperature other than arctic environments.

    I still use it to this day, because some of my ordinance stays in storage for a long time before I can get to it, and do maintenance and use them. Now when it comes to any other alloy or aluminum, all bets are off, as I can tell the old CLP was superior for the AR systems in storage. The only bad thing is, it dries off after about six months, and needs replenishment. Not a problem with a unit who is taking out their weapons constantly in training and deployment. I really don’t know what to think about this new CLP, because the spray version is very foamy, and it is obviously not the same formula, or consistency, and smells totally different now. I can say it works wonders on the action of a PKM for pre firing touch up. You can put about 1000 rounds through it, without one hiccup!

  • Bill

    I’ve got the whole FL kit, but they didn’t include a hair dryer for heating up stuff. DO NOT borrow your 22 year-old daughter’s hair drier to heat guns and FL, the repercussions are horrific.

  • Mobil One.

  • Jamie Clemons

    Interesting you say that coconut oil has a high melting temp? How so? It melts at body temp.

    • BrandonAKsALot

      I think it’s supposed to be a high smoke temperature.

  • allannon

    I use different pans for different purposes, but CI is my favorite general-purpose material.

    I do like my Ti camping set. 🙂

  • ThatGuy

    Syn motor oil is fine, if one enjoys inhaling the intensely carcinogenic BENZINE fumes that are generated when it is aerosolized. Maybe a completely non-toxic solution is a better mousetrap? Maybe ESPECIALLY with the proliferation of suppressors.

    But what do I know?

  • Haywood Jablome

    Love the Frog Lube! It works very well for me….

  • pismopal

    No problem with melt point of coconut oil on guns. In fact it may be a plus with no run off. Just another great use for the oil I use on my eggs.. in my hair.

  • JSmath

    I’d consider it, but as I said, the froglube is working just fine.

    • uisconfruzed

      If it ain’t broke. The Belray was the first thing I tried. I have it for dirt bike bearings.

  • Sven79

    Interesting, but I am more interested in finding out more about Anderson Arms RF85, and other nanotech lubricants that are embedded in the metal, and are currently being tested by the military, which eliminate the need for many of these lubricants.

  • maodeedee

    I bought a new 10mm Glock 20 three years ago and I’ve been using the frog lube paste in it. I notice when I fire the gun the stuff does melt a little bit but I figure that’s good, it just spreads it around. But every other time I fire it, I field-strip it, clean it, and re-lube it though I clean the barrel every time.
    I would apply it sparingly to just the wear points but as of yet I don’t really see any wear points except a little where the barrel goes in and out of the slide where a barrel bushing would be on a 1911.
    I’m impressed with Glocks. I also have a police turn-in 40 caliber model 23 and it seems to me that with a Glock you could use fine sand as a lube and it would work just as well as anything else. And with the 23 I have a conversion barrel in 9mm and spare factory barrel in 357 sig.

  • My police department has used Frog Lube exclusively for the last three years. Prior to that we were big Militec-1 users. We still have some Militec and really found it to be very good. We changed when some officers began using Frog Lube on their personal firearms and were having great results. We did some research and appreciated the “clean” 100% bio based design and non-chemical smell. Price is more than the cheaper stuff, but comparable with other lubes and oils.

    However, the best feature is when cleaning our AR-15’s the carbon build up literally wipes off the BCG with a rag. The only spot that still needs a brush is the face of the bolt, and even that only takes a few seconds to clean it off.

    So far we have not run into any “gumming” problems at all. We use both the paste and the oil, and would recommend its use to anyone.

  • carlcasino

    I was introduced to molybdenum Disulfide while serving aboard Nuclear Submarines in the 50’s. The need for a lubricant that eliminated galling on stainless steel was needed and Moly in an alcohol carrier was the answer. The drawback is the old axiom of if a little bit is good a whole lot is great DOES NOT APPLY with Moly. Apply, let dry, wipe off excess and on SS valves it was good for hundreds of cycles before a top off was required. I recently obtained a can of Birchwood Casey Moly Lube Dry Lubricant and used it first on an worn out Remington 1100 and had to reeducate myself on the oops tooo much and wipe off. My Springfield XD9 has from day one been tough to rack. It might be my imagination but it appears after a few hundred cycles the slide is freeing up or my 78 year old arm is getting stronger. ( Bridge For Sale Alert on that). I am not a paid supporter but jus thought I would add my 50 cents worth( Inflation you know)

  • n0truscotsman

    Okay, somebody might have already mentioned this, but since ill post first and go over comments later, ill just leave this thought:

    Why hasn’t this article attracted the crap storm that followed the Fire Clean one???

    Anybody care to weigh in?

    No lawsuit threats being thrown around over semantics and legal-eese?

    No insults and excuse-making from a certain major firearms/military product on behalf of Frog Lube?


    • Brian Hert

      Because I don’t believe the FrogLube guys made/make outlandish claims about its performance. They also haven’t tried to sue people for doing the analysis.

      • n0truscotsman

        As far as i know, threats of lawsuits haven’t emerged, although Ill argue with the ‘peculiar’ marketing strategy and claims made that have been the discussion on the gun side for quite a while now.

        Whatever the case may be, I have a lifetime supply of various types of lubes, to include froglube, fireclean, etc due to people’s ‘here try this!” resource channel 😉

  • Doc afric

    Hot damn, coconut oil….my SIG’s cholesterol level just went up…..damn have to go exercise it some more now.

    • 2hotel9

      Actually, it went down. Still need the extra “exercise” though.

  • stephen

    I gave up froglube after people could smell my gun from 75 feet away.

    • 2hotel9

      Yea, anything that smells like something a chick sprays on her snootch for date night I ain’t using on a firearm.

  • John

    Look, what ever froglube, Seal1 is it was all developed by one guy. Scott Lee

    Maybe the difference is because Scott still makes Seal 1 but not froglube anymore

  • LarryCohen2014

    FireClean = Canola Oil and now we know that Frog Lube = Coconut Oil.
    You just can’t trust all these gun lube companies. Stick with Mobil1… it’s made for engines that have a lot more friction than guns, it’s used by millions of cars on the road, it just works and it’s cheap.