Recently I stumbled upon this gem of creativity, a fellow somewhere in the US who designed and put together a bullpup configuration of an AR15 by re-configuring the trigger group into a stock, putting a pistol grip and trigger guard along the rail system, raising the EoTech by about 2 inches with a rail riser and then adding a tube above the buffer tube to form a cheek weld while still keeping the charging handle in the original location. We’ve blogged about various AR bullpup experiments before on TFB, one that only had a trigger bar mounted to a grip on the forward rail, and another one even more extensively modified than this one, in completely redesigning the lower receiver to accommodate the upper receiver. However this design seems to be much more compatible with drop in parts to the parts that this guy came up with. He has also done the exact same thing to an ARAK upper receiver, which of course can work with an AR lower as it is. So far it seems that this fellow has just done it the one time in 2014, and hasn’t shown any subsequent modifications since that time. It would be interesting to see if this idea ever takes off in the future, sort of how similar ideas are applied to AK and M14 bullpup drop ins.

I built one. The JMT lower is a plastic lower made to look like a billet rather than a mill-spec. There are no alterations to the lower. I used a short pistol buffer system. It measures 28.5 inches without the compensator. It has about a 4 pound trigger pull since it started with a 3.5 pound Timney trigger assembly and my pull bar remote trigger adds little if any resistance. I have a trigger scale coming so I will know more later. No I can’t and will not make any of these parts for anybody save your breath. It took way too much time and energy for what the results are. They aren’t bad it is fun to shoot but the cost is nearly the same as buying a Tavor.

I use a rod in a tube. The rod is pulled. There are slots in the tube for arms to engage the rod. The arms engage slots in the rod. You can see the tube running from the front grip trigger assembly. The rear lever pivots on an extended front trigger pin. Both levers use the same length levers so the trigger pull is the same as it was to start with except for a tiny increase in friction which honestly isn’t noticeable but I won’t argue is not there. The front trigger pivot bar pivots in ball bearings.