Dry Film Lubricant from Sentry Solutions

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In most of the booths I visited I expected to just have a brief meet and greet, get shown a couple of new products, take a few pics, and be on my way. That was not the case at Sentry Solutions. I was invited into the booth and got to sit at an actual table in an actual chair (if you’ve been to SHOT you’ll appreciate things like that). The rep that I talked to (Mark Mrozek) then proceeded to give me a super detailed run down of the history of the product and all of the many ways it can be used (well beyond firearms applications). It was not at all like a sales meeting–he really took the time to really explain the product (well more than is appropriate for a highlight post for SHOT), and I appreciated that .

The tl;dr for their product is that they believe the concept of a oily CLP is flawed. The usage of a wet lubricant is what attracts dirt and carbon (and creates carbon fouling), which then necessitates regular cleaning. Their product is more of an "LP"–it is a dry film lubricant that protects the surface of the material through chemical bonding. The metal surfaces then become non-stick (much like teflon, though not via the same mechanism). One of the other benefits is that there is nothing to thicken in the cold. The literature cites operational lubrication from -65 degrees F to 650 degrees F.

The firearms product was first adapted for the battlefield in 1991, and has branched into a number of other usages (like knives and tools). I’m hoping to get some to T&E so I can see for myself–I’d love to not worry about cleaning or constantly feeding my weapons oil.

Have any of you used their products? The firearms specific ones go under the product names of Smooth-Kote, BP-2000 Powder, and Hi-Slip Grease.

They have a Facebook Page, a Twitter Account, and YouTube Channel



Tom is a former Navy Corpsman that spent some time bumbling around the deserts of Iraq with a Marine Recon unit, kicking in tent flaps and harassing sheep. Prior to that he was a paramedic somewhere in DFW, also doing some Executive Protection work between shifts. Now that those exciting days are behind him, he has embraced his inner “Warrior Hippie” and assaults 14er in his sandals and beard, or engages in rucking adventure challenges while consuming craft beer. To fund these adventures, he writes medical software and builds websites and mobile apps. His latest venture is as one of the founders of IronSights.com; a search engine for all things gun related. He hopes that his posts will help you find solid gear that will survive whatever you can throw at it–he is known (in certain circles) for his curse…ahem, ability…to find the breaking point of anything.


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  • john

    OK, I need to contact this company because I gots issues. I have a pocket piece with really tight tolerances and when I used this stuff it caused everything to bind slightly and just feel sluggish. It does go on pretty easily and dries quickly but I am not sure if I would use this on a tight trigger which is what they suggest, maybe a slide rail? Like I said, I am going to call them but for now I have gone back to a very light regular oil.

    • Doc Rader

      That is interesting. Which product was it? And did you fully clean your weapon first (I’m not criticizing, I assume you did clean it)? My understanding is that you really need to have absolutely everything off of it–basically to bare metal so that the product can bond to it.

      I am probably going to autoclave what I T&E it on just to be sure.

      • P R D

        It is interesting .. since you can have an entire NP3 coating applied inside and out, triggers, everything, without affecting mechanical function (except for the better). The idea that a simple liquid treatment .. on its own .. could do what a tri-material plating will not (ie – jam up the gun) has a name in the world of engineering: Imaginary.

        As Doc was trying to not say .. likely the user failed to remove the old oil-based products – causing the two to become mixed and creating a sludge. Makers of dry film treatments repeatedly overexplain to remove the old lubricants first.

    • john

      I cleaned every part with Gun Scrubber and then wiped each part down with a clean cloth. The parts were very smooth with NO oil, then I applied the dry lube (trigger/bore conditioner) it covered everything with a black coating and then started to bind. It did not bind much, but it was enough to affect the action. Again, this may work for larger tolerances but the area of contention was a trigger bar with almost no clearance that would get stuck and have to be tapped to reset. This may be a bad example because I am now running it dry and it works fine.

  • Joe

    Sounds like it’s either ptfe (Teflon) or carbon monofluoride (CFx). Both are great lubricants but both degrade into some REALY nasty gasses when heated to hot.

    • Doc Rader

      It is not teflon. I definitely remember that from the meeting. I’ll admit, some of the details started getting beyond my comprehension. My understanding is that teflon forms a layer with basically tiny spheres (which is what any contacting material glides against); the Sentry product forms a smooth film.

      I assume the “hot” you reference would be beyond the rated 650 degrees F? That should be well above what you are getting when firing, even pretty heavy fire.

    • Marc

      Could also be MoS2, WS2 or BN.

      In any case, no dry lubricant is as good at lubrication as a fluid film lubricant. Tried it all, came back to grease (with MoS2 additive).

  • Leonardo Padrino

    I have the little kit that comes with the sharpener, cloth, and injector. I’m not impressed. I put it on my knives and 10/22 and they both rust with ease, not a lot but still.

  • Rosetta Stone

    I’m always left wondering about these products effect on metal to plastic or just plastic surfaces tha are more and more common. They talk about effects on metal, but data on effects on synthetics is rarer than a Glock revolver. Found out the hard way Miltec 1 was for metal only.