Nicholas C

Co-Founder of KRISSTALK forums, an owner’s support group and all things KRISS Vector related. Nick found his passion through competitive shooting while living in NY. He participates in USPSA and 3Gun. He loves all things that shoots and flashlights. Really really bright flashlights.

Any questions please email him at nicholas.c@staff.thefirearmblog.com


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  • JT

    no eezox?

    • RobGR

      The poster above used Eeezox in his test, looks like it did as well as Corrosion X.

      • jcitizen

        I think I’m going to try EEZOX too!

        • RobGR

          I’ve never tried Eezox, doesn’t look too expensive, while Corrosion X was $30 shipped. That said, I will pay that much to ensure my firearms are corrosive resistant and Corrosion X has been very effective, thus I will simply continue using it.

  • Blake

    Would have been nice to see good old WD-40 too 🙂

    • BattleshipGrey

      Motor oil also.

    • 2hotel9

      I can tell you, WD40 is NOT a lubricant. Water Dispersant, formula 4-0 is for removing moisture and evaporates, it imparts no lubricating effect. It is excellent for cleaning, you have to apply an actual lubricant after drying/removing WD40 from metal surfaces.

      No cool video, just 40 odd years of experience with firearms and tools out in the world. And yes, when all else is unavailable go with motor oil. Its better than nothing. And apparently better than a whole lot of “gun lubes” on the market.

      • dp

        It’s got silicone oil in it. It says ‘protects metals and lowers friction’. If it repels water, so much better. Is it not what you want?
        But I know, instinctively I’d reach for CLP too.

        • ThomasD

          Original formula WD-40 does not contain silicone.

          What does WD-40 Multi-Use Product contain?

          While the ingredients in WD-40 Multi-Use Product are secret, we can tell you what it does NOT contain. WD-40 Multi-Use Product does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, graphite, or chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

          http://wd40.com/faqs/

          Some Specialist line products do.

          • big daddy

            I remember seeing it’s actually fish guts.

          • Tactical Tightwad

            Nah, that’s Ballistol.

          • big daddy

            The WD40 fish guts was a rumor it’s not really true.

          • jcitizen

            I just read a lengthy history about the guy that developed it, and they said it was fish oil. Why would a historian make up such an elaborate lie?

          • big daddy

            I did more research and I found that my prior assumption that it was made from fish was not true. At this point I just use it and do not care. It works for some things and not for others.

          • Matt

            It’s fish oil… Water displacing penetrating lube, 40th formula, but it’s fish oil. I wonder how Marvel Mystery Oil would hold up?

        • 2hotel9

          WD evaporates, which is how it displaces/disperses water. The lubricating effect only lasts as long as it takes for it to evaporate. An excellent cleaning aid, and if you got nothing else it can stand in for a lube, for a little while. I use a lot of it on my electric hedge trimmers and on shears(Do a LOT of trimming) and when I get them out after a few days they are as dry and lube free as if I had taken a rag and wiped them dry.

          On an unrelated note, I absolutely HATE WD40s new spray tops. I would love to find the idiot that came up with this crap an’ smack them in the mouth.

          • hkryan

            Totally agree re: the new tops!

          • 2hotel9

            I had some empty cans in the shed when they first put those on, so I keep switching out tops on new cans.

      • eric

        How does regular mineral oil stand up? I use it primarily on my hunting guns due to it being odorless but does anyone know about it in the long run?

        • 2hotel9

          Never used regular mineral oil, closest I come is 3in1, which is mineral oil after checking the can! I really should read ingredients labels more often.

      • Blake

        I know it’s not designed as a lubricant; it’s a rust inhibitor. It does contain a bit of lubricating oil but that’s certainly not its primary job (the same could be said for Break Free, which seemed to be middle-of-the-pack in this test). Personally WD-40 is a Godsend for me when working on any stuck bolt or screw; it’s specifically designed to get inside machined parts & unstick them, & for this it work great.

        Also I dunk old parts in the stuff & dry them off before lubing them to prevent rust. Not saying that folks should do this to their guns but it works for me on bicycle parts.

        …& since this test was about rust protection…

        (Chris’ previous test specifically involved rust protection of steel-cased ammo)

      • jcitizen

        That is what I was always taught, and that is more than 50 years experience.

        • 2hotel9

          Yep, WD is great for cleaning and loosening. Not much else. Though, it does kill weeds, used in sufficient amounts.

  • 2hotel9

    Blue? Nice test. Have to admit I never heard of Corrosion X, going to have to get some. I have used RemOil for quite awhile and have no complaints, really, then again I handle my firearms a lot and don’t let problems develop. With my two primary carry rifles I go over them thoroughly once a month whether I have fired them or not in that period. Also go through my AK mags on same sched, unload and switch out the ones in chest rig, with the Garrand I go through all the clipped ammo in the web gear. All the ammo gets a wipe down with cloth soaked in 3in1 oil, same for mags and clips.

    My EDC pistols get lubed when needed, the pocket pistol gets it a lot more in summer, sweat being rather salty.

  • John
    • John

      Includes WD-40

      I’d like to note before people jump on the CorrosionX or Eezox bandwagon that corrosion resistance is only one property of gun lube

      http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac224/SScommander/tbqo7CN_zpsd7dc1de5.jpg

      • danthemann5

        Go Browns!

      • jcitizen

        I just started trying BOE T9 and it looks like EEZOX was the winner of that contest! Never heard of it! Thanks for posting that pic!

      • El Duderino

        I treat a blued lever gun I own with wax, then with a good light rub from a silicone cloth. Would love to see that disk in this comparison.

  • TangledThorns

    I don’t have CorrX but my MPro-7 looks like it should do its job.

    • hkryan

      Nice to see some coverage for MPro-7. Been using it for years and always been curious how it stacks up.

  • not a fun

    Youmad. Just use synthetic engine oil (0W-XX)

    • Limonata

      Look at the link below posted by John. There is a test with engine oil as you specified. Its on the 2nd or 3rd to last page. Guess what, it was some of the worst. You can review the info yourself at the link

    • Tower of London uses Vaseline. It is long chain hydrocarbon, and is unnatural, so there are few ‘microbes’ that can eat it, it wets, so any flaw in the covering can self heal.

  • dp

    Where is WD-40 ? Never used anything else.

  • DiverEngrSL17K

    In the Photobucket link that John posted, Boeshield T-9, Tri-Flow ( which contains PTFE ) and PL-10 appeared to work very well too. The result with Boeshield T-9 comes as no surprise as it is similar to LPS-3 in that it leaves a light but durable stiff waxy residue that will resist salt air and salt water corrosion for a long time ( which is why it is recommended in maritime applications for coating and protecting mothballed engines, generators, winches, windlasses and almost every other type of machinery or mechanical device ; however, these properties would not be so suitable for firearms in general as the residue requires some work to remove ). A possible alternative to T-9 and LPS-3 would be CRC 6-56, which serves the same purpose, but which does not leave the waxy residue characteristic of the other two products. All the same, it might still be a little too heavy for firearms usage, unless you are planning on very long-term storage in hostile climatic conditions. The results with Tri-Flow seem pretty compelling for possible firearms applications, though, since it is light, leaves little to no residue, is relatively inexpensive, is commonly available off the shelf in most hardware stores, provides good lubrication and protection, and seems to hold up well.

  • So how does it actually perform as a Lubricant? I want to see actual Coefficient of Friction tests, and Endurance tests.

  • Mark N.

    For exterior surfaces, I use KleenBore silicone gun & reel cloth. Never have had an issue, even on long guns stored for over a year. But I do live in a normally dry to very dry climate with no salt

  • 101nomad

    No oil of any kind touches my ammo. Wipe down if needed, clean magazine if needed, but, I do not have a warehouse full of ammo either. WD-40 is excellent for most purposes, but a little leery of spraying a light penetrating oil on ammo, no matter what the ‘experts’ might say. The more information we have, the better choices we might make. Appreciate the article. (I live in South Texas.)

    • 2hotel9

      I only do oily rag wipe to ammo that is in mags on my chest rig and clips in the LBE for M1. They are actually, to a degree, exposed to atmospheric moisture. My EDC ammo gets the wipey dipey whenever it looks if-iy. And yes. I have been carrying the same 26 rds of Remington 167gr JHP subsonic 9mm for 10 years. Because when and if I do have to shoot some stupid f**k I want them to hit the floor so hard they draw a f**king spark. And 167 subsons do that.

      • 101nomad

        I would think so. It is really an individual thing. I had an experience some years ago, in SC at the time. Me between people in a small town, (population: 200), store, and a man with a straight razor. No one was hurt. I had been cleaning the .38 snub nose revolver with WD-40 and thought I was wiping it down and swabbing it good. A few days later, fishing the swamp, open carry legal in SC hunting or fishing, I had the opportunity to shoot a few rounds into a dirt backdrop. 4 out of six failed to fire. The primer had been hit good. Same rounds that was in it when facing the man with the straight razor. I have never used oil/WD-40 on my ammo, or magazines since.

        • 2hotel9

          WD does have that penetrative effect, never had it with 3in1. Never get them sloppy wet, just a wipe down. Randomly I take a rd from each mag and fire them, replace from my dwindling stock of 167gr. Never have understood the obsession with lighter, faster. I prefer to knock sh*t down, myself.

        • jcitizen

          I’m an old goat, and I’ve been told since I was a kid that you don’t put WD-40 on ammo, or any other “panther piss”.

          • WD-40 is light oil, and has low surface tension, but wicks into cracks, say the cracks between the case and the bullet. If WD-40 gets into the propellant you can get very unpleasant results. Most military propellants release excess oxygen for low carbon build up and low flash. If the oil burns with that excess oxygen, you release a lot of energy. For example, TNT has 4.3 kJoules per gram, kerosene has 43 kJoules per gram.

    • Blacksheep

      WD-40 is fish oil based, it is highly Hygroscopic. (It attracts water) It is highly outdated and pretty much,the worst lubricant ever, unless you want to be period correct on your machinery… Penetrating oil is needed for nothing but loosening rusted parts. 100% Silicone spray is your best bet for any light corrosion control and light lubrication maintenance…

      • Jimi Kyle

        Its a cleaner, not a lubricant

      • Ian

        Actually WD40 unlike the popular idea is not fish-oil based. It is petroleum based. But he’s right about everything else. I thought it prevented rust whne I was younger but it does attract moisture and brings it to surfaces that it is sprayed on. Terrible.

      • randigb

        WD-40 is petroleum based, not fish-oil based. It’s designed to repel water, not attract water.

        Definitely would not use it on any of my guns.

        • BobbyLee

          the WD stands for Water Dispersant 40th try…WD40,,,,made by gov’t scientist for the gov’t.

          • BobLeeTaggert

            Water Displacement Formula 40

      • AKMaineIac

        No idea what the heck is in it… No list of ingredients, and no patent, and nobody is talking about it either.

        • 2hotel9

          Says right on the can it is petroleum based. No ingredients specifically listed, though, since something in the formula is proprietary, or the process for blending is.

          • jcitizen

            I got an industrial circular the other day that said WD-40 is based on fish oil. They treated it as historical fact, and even posted the history of the guy that developed it. It is kinda hard to refute that – me not being an investigator in fish oil, or not.

          • 2hotel9

            Right on the can it states “petroleum product”. Unless they are running an 8 inch bore drill rig into some fish I just don’t see how it is happening.

            Then again! Perhaps they are using Common Core Science.

        • Tucson_Jim

          You can learn more than you need to know on the Wikipedia entry for WD-40, and on the company’s website. “Water Displacing Formulation Number 40” is an aerospace industry product developed to prevent corrosion of aluminum, not a lubricant.

          There are about a thousand other uses for the solution listed on their website as well. It penetrates well, and is a good solvent for hardened grease and grime. I used to spray my entire car engine down with it prior to using “Gunk” engine cleaner, then, again after the engine dried. Looked great, collected a lot of dust and grit, but cleaned easier the next time around too.

          • WD-40 also kills wasps dead RIGHT NOW.

          • Chris Bryan

            Almost right now. The best bug spray on the planet, that I’ve been able to experiment with, is CRC brakleen, or CRC electronics cleaner. Try it on a roach, and try not to feel bad when you see the instant agony while it craps itself as the nervous system melts away… Great for wasps, spiders…

      • Hopsaregood

        There is a reason it is called a gunsmiths best friend. That said it is great to put on out hand tools.

    • hello

      You should NEVER use WD-40 on firearms in humid climates!!!

    • Blake

      agree with you there; I’ve found that the best “protection” for ammo is a sealed ammo can with a silica gel pack in it…

    • One thing to try is putting a block of zinc into your ammunition case. The Zinc will corrode as anode, putting the ammunition as cathode, protecting it. If you do that, you don’t need oil. If you don’t do that, oil can wet the surface of your ammunition, protecting it (as an insulator) from the corrosion circuit, BUT penetrating oil getting into the powder is a bad thing. If the oil is still on the ammunition when the chamber is very hot, the oil can char, leading to carbon coating of the chamber and barrel. Carbon acts as a cathode (just like in a dry cell battery) causing other materials to corrode.

      Oil also can wet dust, grit or sand, causing it to stick, and depending on what is in your local sand (beach sand usually has salt in it) you can get very rapid corrosion.

      • El Duderino

        Interesting! I don’t have blocks of zinc around, but I used to have a lot of .308 with zinc plated cases. They corroded quite a bit (they were not in a dehumidified container) but my brass cased ammo did not. I shoot them out of a PTR-91 that couldn’t care less about corroded cases.

  • Vitor

    Corrosion X has a specific lub for guns, since Im brazilian, I use it to lub the chain and hubs of my bicycle, it is quite good and much cheaper than the ones sold specifically for bikes.

    But yeah, weird he tested the general use Corrosion X and not the specific one for guns. But now I want to try Frog Lube on my bike.

    • RobGR

      You can use the general purpose Corrosion X on your firearms. I contacted them and they said there should be no issue. If anyone has contacted them and gotten an alternate response, post away.

      I use it on my Nodak (NDS AK) receivers, it’s helped a lot!

  • Nate Nance

    Not a word about Lucus gun oil?

  • Glenn Smith

    Who keeps their weapon outside in humidity normally? Take any vehicle engine apart that has been sitting for a long time and you will see rust on the inside,any brand of oil,and yes even synthetic.The key is to keep oil on it in interval cleanings,depending on the humidity level where you live.All this test proves to me is how long it takes each brand to evaporate from the metal.None of the brands listed will evaporate within 3 months,try them.I clean my weapons after every range session! Keep a petroleum based lubricant them and they will be fine!

  • Barry

    I noticed you didn’t try XF7 gun lube. It is available at Brownells. Great stuff

  • Bc10

    Brass. That’s all I got to say. Oh. Cheap ass people using anything else. Why. When it come down to life. Buy what will last not what what you will die in your gun with

    • molon_labe

      I use steel cased on my ak because brass is softer and with the violent action of the ak, can rip the back of the casing off. Although, anyone using steel cased on an ar platform is making a bad choice. They will wear out their extractor 3 times faster.

      • Geodkyt

        Oh, NOES! It will wear out teh extractor three times faster! (And, how much does an extractor cost, versus the cost difference of brass case vs. steel in case lots? If you’re paying more than $15-$20 for an extractor, what kind of adamantium extractors are you buying?)

        Sorry, that’s a weak argument. And I’m a guy who only shoots brass cased M193 and M855, even though it’s more expensive. (But I _don’t_ do it because I’m afraid of wearing out the extractor.)

        • jcitizen

          Besides the fact that armies have been using steel since before WWII. And they are still selling ammo from that time period with perfectly shootable ammo to this day. At least I’ve never had a failure yet.

    • RealityCheck

      “not what what you will die in your gun with”

      You do have a way with words.

  • yacope

    I learned over 10 years ago when I took a bicycle wrenching class NEVER to use DW40 on the gears and other mechanical parts precisely because it is not a lubricant and it attracts moisture.

    If I wouldn’t use on my bike I wouldn’t let it touch anything that could go in or on my gun

  • Bruce Wayne

    If you ever have the liberty of performing this test again, use frog lube too.

    • TV-PressPass

      Isn’t the top center plate Frog Lube?

      • Bruce Wayne

        Damn I feel like a complete idiot, yeah, im sure it is. Sorry.

        • TV-PressPass

          I don’t want to know what you thought F. Lube stood for! 😉

          • Bruce Wayne

            Pillow talk my friend. HAHAHA, I’ll have to keep this rated PG

  • Allen Heckart

    The very best thing that I have ever used is AMSOIL MP for metal protection. I have used everything from GI lubricants in Vietnam to motor oil to Froglube (which is very good). I personally have taken my 1911, cleaned it, followed the directions on the can, submerged it in water, shook it off and have been carrying it for the last 18 months with no rust from the environment or handling. MP Heavy Duty is great for motorcycle chains.

  • Will

    Been using Break Free (CLP) for fifteen plus years. No problems what so ever!
    Of course my carry gun(s) get field stripped, inspected and cleaned every two weeks. Ammo in mags get rotated also. Detailed every two months..
    I would like some feed back on Frog Lube please. I’ve been testing it on a Sig P226 and it seems like a good product. Plus my Sig smells “Minty Fresh”.

    • Hopsaregood

      Been using Frog Lube for several years. Like it. Like the way it cleans, lubes and protects. Also there are no chemicals to hurt eyes, lungs et al. A bit pricey but worth it in my opinion. And you will find that if use it with chapped hands, they feel much better.

  • Jamie Clemons

    Cosmoline

    • The Brigadier

      Its a thick grease for long term storage, not short term lubrication.

  • Hopsaregood

    I do not spray ammo either. That said this test was looking good until the part involving the wipe down was done and we really do not know what happened. And how many of us take the lube off our guns anyway? I am a Frog Lube fan. Been using it for several years now and now issues at all. Plus it does not burn my eyes, broken skin and such. As a matter of fact it seems to help weather dried skin.

  • dupkaman

    Mil-comm’s MC 2500 wasn’t reviewed. Anyone have experience with it?

  • jcitizen

    This is a great post! No one else I’ve ever read put the importance this has to gun owners! Thank everyone here for their participation – this is VERY illuminating!

  • Blue80cj5

    Would like to see a comparison to another lube.. T9 boeshield. Normally used on high performance bikes.

  • Tracy Thorleifson

    I’ve used CLP for years; it’s a good product. I began using CorrosionX when it first came out based on my positive experience with other products in the CorrosionX family in the marine environment. If I’m worried about corrosion, I use CorrosionX. I’ve got an old Remington 1100 that rusts at the drop of a hat; CorrosionX keeps it rust free. I’ve started using Frog Lube recently, and I think it’s a superior lubricant to either CLP or CorrosionX. I now use Frog Lube on the rails of my semi-auto pistols and on the bolt carrier of my Sig 556. And my wife likes the way it smells!

    Like several other posters, I do not intentionally lubricate my ammo, ever. You don’t want lubricant contaminating the primer. (That said, my hands usually have some film of lubricant on then when I’m loading mags, so the ammo probably picks up some.) I do use Hornady’s OneShot primer sealer, and I’ve had good luck with that.

  • 2hotel9

    Think I gots to clarify, people keep emphasizing how they never “spray oil” on their ammo. I don’t, either. I unload each mag and clip, individually, onto a rag soaked with oil(usually 3in1) then roll the cartridges so they get an even coat of oil on the exterior of the casing. As I reload each mag or clip I inspect each rd and wipe off any excess around the primer. Penetrative oils and primers don’t mix. Actually, they do mix. That is kinda the problem.

    Anyone who has carried ammo in leather knows the drill, inspect and oil as needed.

    And anyone who has operated in high humidity knows, inspect and clean/lube EVERYTHING. EVERYDAY. Nylon gear is just as bad as leather, once it gets thoroughly wet. “water proof” coatings keep water in, as well as out, kids.

    EDC ammo is a subject not really covered, most of the time. A major blind spot for lots of people.

  • Tucson_Jim

    CLP is great stuff. I have seen similar results on other trials, and, living in AZ where I use an evaporative cooler, humidity in the house is a BIG concern. All my guns are thoroughly cleaned with CLP, rinsed with CLP, or wiped-down with a CLP saturated wash-cloth kept in a zip-loc bag [then greased where appropriate with either TW-25 (for stainless steel on aluminum) or Hoppes Gun Grease (Parkerized and Blued parts)]. So far, in 8 years, I have not had a problem with rust or corrosion.

    CLP prevents carbon, lead, gilding metal, and grime from sticking to parts coated with a light film of it, making for very easy cleaning the next time around.

    I keep my hands OFF of ammo until ready to use, this prevents body salts from tarnishing or corroding the brass, and prevents bi-metallic corrosion of brass loaded in steel magazines. I do not even buy steel cased ammo for long-term inventory and don’t like using it in my weapons because of the soot and grime that blows past the cartridge because it doesn’t seal well against the chamber. Remember, military chambers are cut oversize. If you can’t afford brass ammo, or don’t reload, then: 1) Plan your shots better; 2) Pay more attention to what you are doing; 3) Learn from others; and 4) Spend more time dry-firing. The challenge of shooting is not to see who you can impress by how much noise and how many rounds you can burn through in one trip to the range, it is to improve your skills.

    THERE ARE NO SUCH THINGS AS ZOMBIES…! Chances are that one or two loaded magazines is all anyone will ever need on short-notice… As for invasion, plague, civil war, social unrest, disaster, WTSHTF, etc., you will have plenty of time to load as many magazines as you have ammo for before all THOSE other mindless drones arrive.

  • Prote

    I found a lube called C.O.W. Oil 3. At a gun show. Stuff is amazing. But last time I tried to order it, the link to order did not work. Sent a letter to the address but have not got a response.

  • The Brigadier

    Vacuum pack your ammo for long term storage. Vacuum packing sucks out all the air with the moisture as well. There is a small amount of air and moisture left even in a good vacuum so use the moisture gel pouches in the vacuum bag and keep them off the ammo itself. For your firearms you can use stainless steel for the barrel and exposed parts, and pack the rest in cosmoline for long term storage. Cleaning it is chore, but the Russians packed all of their Mosin Nagants in cosmoline at the end of WWII and everyone has seen how well it protected those rifles for seventy years. Short term storage is more problematic and that is every person’s personal quest. Light surface rust can be cleaned with ultra fine steel wool you can find at paint stores. 400 to 600 grade works well and don’t rub too hard or too long. The rust comes off pretty quickly. A light, high grade machine oil like jojoba oil is the best bet and it can be wiped off if you need the weapon to go shooting. You can get it at sewing machine centers.

    • Pio M. Sian

      Thanks for the tip. I used 600 ex-fine steel wool very lightly on superficial rust spots with long strokes, careful no to hit the same spots and remove the blue. I like Rem oil and Jojoba is new to me. Cosmoline brings back 50-60 years of memories.

  • Secundius

    In a pinch, Singer Sewing Machine Oil. Also makes a good firearm lubricant.

  • Spook89

    What part of, “keep your powder dry” do some people not understand?

    • 2hotel9

      The part where we are out in the real world, where sh*t gets wet and dirty.

  • ron17571

    A trucker hauling it in bulk,said WD-40 is kerosene. Gun oil is cheap and one quart of synthetic oil would go a long way.

  • Bill

    WD= Water Dispersant. no oil. the only OIL I use is Lucas gun Oil. designed for the U.S. army for Machine guns. I sharpen clipper blades Knives and scissors, it works for them to. clippers slam back and forth like a machine gun. Never had a complaint from a groomer about a blade sticking. never had a gun hang up (except on a reload)also don’t oil my ammo and I live in Arkansas. also don’t keep ammo over a year or two. Gun of choice 45acp. hope I never HAVE to use it, but they should darn sure make a spark when they hit the turf.
    Bill