Someone needs to review this rifle with this trigger so I know if I should walk or run to the nearest dealer to get one!

im with jdun… seriously $105 for a trigger on a rifle worth $300? Might bhe time for some of these companies to look at who is gonna by the rifle and realize its not a Remington 700 or AI. The only reason I can see them pricing this so high is that too few people are going to buy it. supply vs demand

It’s a shame Savage didn’t just put the same old fashioned trigger on the Axis/Edge that they used to use on all their rifles pre-Accutrigger, and that they still use on the Stevens 200 series rifles. That trigger is very easy to adjust to a great trigger pull, and is still safe even when adjusted fairly light. If they’d incorporated that trigger design into the Axis/Edge, this stuff wouldn’t even be an issue. Instead, they had to design a brand new trigger that is (as far as I know) not adjustable at all…..

There are multiple ways to get the trigger fixed. You can risk cutting your current spring or use a mechanical pencil spring, but I really don’t recommend that since you are asking for trouble. If you look at the basix and timney triggers you adjust the weight and the seer and safety have to be adjusted. I wanted something safe and easy. The basix trigger is cheaper, but you have to change the WHOLE trigger assembly and not just the trigger. If you read the fine print you have to use loktight on the 4 setting adjustment knobs so it will be a bear to change if you got it wrong when installing it at home. Also, there seems to be a flaw with the trigger assembly since they tell you not to quickly reload using the bolt or you can damage the assembly. In other words their trigger is a bit flawed or touchy and can be damaged. I’d hate to be the guy that misses the deer and breaks his trigger trying to reload and shoot again. I literally just installed a timney trigger in my .308 savage edge last week. It was pretty much drop in. Remove two bolts to remove the action (rifle shell). Remove this little c shaped clamp on the side of the trigger so you can remove the bolt that attaches the trigger. Then put the old trigger, spring, and c clamp in a baggie. That way if anything should happen to your rifle you still will have your warranty by having all the original parts. You install the new spring, trigger, and use the original bolt and replacement c clamp (awesome on the clamp, they go flying when you take them off). Then adjust the seer. Basically you just turn the bolt until it fires and then loosen it up 60 degrees. There’s a little nut behind the seer bolt and you tighten it down with your fingers once it is set. Then you adjust your pull weight. You get to decide. It can be anything from 1.5 to 3 (or 3.5) pounds. Set mine to the lowest. Then adjust the safety bolt until you turn on the safety and loosen it in small increments until it finally can be turned on and off. Re-install the action. Test that safety works. Cock the gun and bump it hard against the floor several times to make sure it won’t misfire. Depending on the settings you may have to very slightly re-adjust the setting bolts. I was able to install mine in 12 minutes. Only 1/5 of that was actual install. The rest was triple re-reading the instructions and testing the rifle so it works and was at the weight I wanted. The timney is higher, but worth it. It is pretty much drop in. Mine (yours may vary) was pretty much set right, I just wanted a lighter trigger. I think mine was set around 3 pounds factory. It was very easy to install. No worries. You just need some allen wrenches (they include wrenches for the settings, but not the action that you have to remove to install the trigger) and a flat head screwdriver. The cool thing besides being easy to install is the settings stay in place so no loktight. You can remove one bolt and remove the trigger guard and then you can easily adjust your settings in the field if you want a heavier or lighter trigger or if you messed it up slightly. Your warranty is still valid, just don’t mail them your rifle with a timney trigger installed, re-install your old trigger. Many gunsmiths refuse to work on this rifle. Adjustments to the original trigger only get you so far. Plus, many gunsmiths use a timney trigger and you are just paying $75-$125 extra to have them do it for you and it really is easy. Just really bang the rifle when it is cocked (no ammo of course) and make sure it won’t accidentially fire. My trigger was super crisp, no overtravel, no play in the safety, and my rifle no longer moves slightly by pulling a heavy trigger. You add a timney trigger and one of those on sale nikon monarch 3-9×40 scopes on ebay for around $220 and you have a winning combo. I know you are paying the same amount as the rifle for both, but it really does make the rifle seem like a quality rifle. NIkon monarch clarity, light crisp trigger, and savage accuracy. You’ll be deadly on the range and against the whitetails in your area. I know the weight is minor, but it really really really does make a difference. I went from 1.5 to 3″ groups last year to .5″ groups this year. We owe it to ourselves (stress relief) and to the deer (by not missing) to add this to your rifle.

Got a question for you; for adjusting the sear you turn yours 60 degrees but Timney states 1/2 turn which is 180 degrees. Is the 60 degrees you stated just an error or can you in fact just turn it 60 rather than 180 degrees?