Huey's Gunsight tests how well brass and steel cased ammunition holds up in field conditions ...
I had never considered the fact that steel ammunition will rust. I use high quality brass factory ammunition for hunting but the cheapest ammunition I can find for just about everything else, which for centerfire often means steel cased.
I don’t know if there’s anything to it, but I have always shied away from steel cases because it seems they would be more likely to gouge up my feed ramp.
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0Just wanted to point out that there are technical reasons why chrome is electroplated onto steel often, not just for aesthetics.
0 0Just remember brass will corrode. Go to an outdoor range and pick up a spent brass case.
Unless your feed ramp is made out of crappy metal there is no way it will gouge.
Keep in mind what destroy barrel is heat.
0 0During my cash-strapped college days, my only centerfire gun was a Mosin-Nagant M38. I kept it in the closet loaded with Silver Bear soft points. I’d shoot FMJs at the range, so this resulted in a lot of loading and unloading the Silver Bear. The cases eventually developed a semi-corroded rough texture. It probably would still function, but Mosin-Nagants are famous for having stubborn bolts. I replaced the ammo for the sake of reliable cycling.
The point: steel cased ammo has some issues.
0 0The 7.62x54R stuff I’ve been using is “copper washed” steel, which looks like copper and resists rust. Basically copper plated. No problems, yet.
Most 7.62×39 ammo I’ve used is either lacquer or polymer coated, which I thought resisted rust pretty well but apparently not. The tester tried to chamber some rounds; hopefully no one would try to fire them.
0 0Steel case ammo can hold up in the field fine. Just keep them from moisture dry them off and take care of your gear that’s all. US also make steel case ammo during WW2 .45 pistol ammo was steel case from some manufacturers. My father shoot alot in his issue .45 in the 1950s. Horandy makes cheap steel case .223 for Law Enforcement training today as well.
0 0Thanks for the link! In all fairness I am quoting another persons post on a forum embedded in my post and adding some of my thoughts. Went through my stash last night and removed all the steel case ammo and put it into a plastic green ammo can as “play” ammo. Headed out this afternoon to go get some of that Lake City brass.
To its credit, the Wolf, Brown Bear, Silver Bear and Tula ammo I have used in the past have never really given me any issues other than just being dirty to clean up afterwards. Some of the 62gr HP Silver Bear stuff also shoot pretty darn accurate to in my M&P15.
0 0Will nickel-plating as seen on Silver Bear ammunition prevent rust despite the fact that it’s still steel-cased? Also I feel that Blazer aluminum-cased ammo should be tested as well.
0 0Which is another great reason not to store your ammo underwater? I don’t see the point. Obviously the stuff rusts. Just like any other price of degradable metal ever.
Tracertong- that silver stuff is zinc plated, as in galvanized. Not nickel. But that should prevent some corrosion.
0 0Steel casing was developed because of copper shortages in WW2. It worked just fine because it was protected against corrosion by lacquer. Lacquer pieces can of course contribute to dirt in the weapon.
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During my cash-strapped college days, my only centerfire gun was a Mosin-Nagant M38. I kept it in the closet loaded with Silver Bear soft points. I’d shoot FMJs at the range, so this resulted in a lot of loading and unloading the Silver Bear. The cases eventually developed a semi-corroded rough texture. It probably would still function, but Mosin-Nagants are famous for having stubborn bolts. I replaced the ammo for the sake of reliable cycling.
The point: steel cased ammo has some issues.
Just remember brass will corrode. Go to an outdoor range and pick up a spent brass case.
Unless your feed ramp is made out of crappy metal there is no way it will gouge.
Keep in mind what destroy barrel is heat.
Just wanted to point out that there are technical reasons why chrome is electroplated onto steel often, not just for aesthetics.
I don’t know if there’s anything to it, but I have always shied away from steel cases because it seems they would be more likely to gouge up my feed ramp.
The 7.62x54R stuff I’ve been using is “copper washed” steel, which looks like copper and resists rust. Basically copper plated. No problems, yet.
Most 7.62×39 ammo I’ve used is either lacquer or polymer coated, which I thought resisted rust pretty well but apparently not. The tester tried to chamber some rounds; hopefully no one would try to fire them.
Steel case ammo can hold up in the field fine. Just keep them from moisture dry them off and take care of your gear that’s all. US also make steel case ammo during WW2 .45 pistol ammo was steel case from some manufacturers. My father shoot alot in his issue .45 in the 1950s. Horandy makes cheap steel case .223 for Law Enforcement training today as well.
Which is another great reason not to store your ammo underwater? I don’t see the point. Obviously the stuff rusts. Just like any other price of degradable metal ever.
Tracertong- that silver stuff is zinc plated, as in galvanized. Not nickel. But that should prevent some corrosion.
Will nickel-plating as seen on Silver Bear ammunition prevent rust despite the fact that it’s still steel-cased? Also I feel that Blazer aluminum-cased ammo should be tested as well.
Thanks for the link! In all fairness I am quoting another persons post on a forum embedded in my post and adding some of my thoughts. Went through my stash last night and removed all the steel case ammo and put it into a plastic green ammo can as “play” ammo. Headed out this afternoon to go get some of that Lake City brass.
To its credit, the Wolf, Brown Bear, Silver Bear and Tula ammo I have used in the past have never really given me any issues other than just being dirty to clean up afterwards. Some of the 62gr HP Silver Bear stuff also shoot pretty darn accurate to in my M&P15.
Steel casing was developed because of copper shortages in WW2. It worked just fine because it was protected against corrosion by lacquer. Lacquer pieces can of course contribute to dirt in the weapon.