Savage Model 110 BA in .338 Lapua

A lot of people have been drooling over the new .338 Lapua Savage rifle because it packs a lot of features into a rifle with an MSRP of just $2,267.

American Rifleman has published a review of the 110 BA which can be read on their website

Although the Model 110 BA is found in the Savage Arms law enforcement lineup, and was designed with military requirements in mind, not to mention it has the ability to withstand operational use by military and law enforcement communities, long-range shooting enthusiasts will surely find this rifle appealing. What’s more, the 110 BA’s $2,267 price puts it within the reach of many shooters. All this, along with Savage’s renowned accuracy and commitment to quality, gives you a remarkable rifle at an equally impressive price.

Savage Model 110 BA (Excuse my poor photography)

The American Rifleman review is very comprehensive so I will not bother covering the same ground, but I will make a few comments about the rifle which I have had the pleasure of shooting on two separate occasions.

Recoil is not too bad. The muzzle brake is efficient. The blast, on the other hand, is significant. Firing it at the enclosed private single lane at the NRA HQ Range was quite an experience
! Again, thanks to Ed Friedman, Tyler Kreis and Daniel McCullough for taking me shooting at NRA HQ.

The rifle is more accurate than I am at half a mile. To be quite honest, being more accurate than me is not hard!

When I blogged about the original Savage Model 10 BAS, which this rifle is based on, many people criticized Savage’s decision to use an AR-15 stock and pistol grip. Personally I found the ergonomics of a free standing pistol grip to work just as well on a bolt action as it does on a tactical style automatic rifle.

I have only two criticism. Firstly, to be frank, it is ugly. Savage have gone with function over form. Secondly, few, if any, civilians are going to get any use from the side rails. They just add to the weight and cost of the rifle.

Caliber .338 Lapua Magnum, .300 Win Mag
Capacity .338 LM: 5+1 rounds, .300 Win Mag: 6+1
Finish Matte Black
Barrel 26″ heavy fluted
Rail Scope rail mount 20 MOA elevation, side rails
Stock Magpul PRS-G3
Twist 1:9 (.338), 1:10 (.300)
Overall Length 50.5″
Weight 15.75 lbs
Other Features AccuTrigger, AccuStock
MSRP (Price) $2267
Availability Unknown

Steve Johnson

Founder and Dictator-In-Chief of TFB. A passionate gun owner, a shooting enthusiast and totally tacti-uncool. Favorite first date location: any gun range. Steve can be contacted here.


  • michael

    I think it’s great looking not ugly but that’s just a matter of choice. If the ammo wasn’t so damn expensive, I’d buy one.

  • AB

    I have to agree with you in that the rifle is damned ugly. However, when you look at it with the eye of an engineer who eschews style for utility and purpose, it is a work of art.

    I’d still use the side rails, but only because I’m somewhat of a dork. An old ipod touch and the ballistics app help me land some nice shots. More shooters could benefit from that particular tool.

  • Rex

    Clearly we all know what the BA stands for…

  • AP

    I was surprised at their gushing over what a “value” this is. The real value in .338 Lapua is the Rem. 700P. It’s well under $1,100 from my Davidson’s guy… if they’d only get some in stock.

  • That gun isn’t ugly – that’s a beauty!

    • Jake

      Sure you could go with the 700, if you don’t mind it, if you bump the bolt and have it mis-fire

  • Lance

    Id take one in .300 win mag I perfer .30 cal bullets.

  • HK_WSU

    Rex – Is BA a reference to Mr. T’s character from the A-Team?

  • Rex

    Nah, the BA Stands for Bad Ass!

  • Komrad

    Bad Ass

  • This thing should have had bottom picatinny rails instead for bipod attachments (instead of stud) and perhaps forward pistol grip option..

  • Erik

    The reason the Remington 700P runs @ $1100 is because the barrels wear out very quickly. Remington had a big problem with it and stopped making them last summer. The .338 LM is simply too powerful a round to run through a sub-$2000 rifle.

    There is no point in buying a weapon you are not going to shoot and .338 LM ain’t cheap. If can’t afford the ammo, why buy the gun. If you can afford .338 rounds, you should be able to afford this or the Sako TRG-42.

    Why would you put a pistol grip on this? The point of a .338 is so you can hit targets at half M+.

    BA definitely sounds for Bad Ass. Same thing is the old Ranger SXT rounds replacing Black Talons. Little humor from the gun industry. Pic rail for bipod would have been nice, but still a hell of a rifle overall.

  • Brian

    Anyone shot both the Savage BA and the AR-30 with same ammo so we can get a review? I’m working up to 700 meters with my win mag so I see a Lapua in my future.

  • Matt

    I see some state the 110BA is Ugly, I see it as a work of art and truly an engineering marvel. The comments about the side raid a duely noted but I see it as an accessory post for range finding/ballistic compensation accessories. Savage did a great thing by bringing this out and has brought the likes of a very expensive chambering within reach of many serious enthusiasts. The cost of ammo & even raw brass is another thing…

    Having given up my 50BMG due to $$ a while back I have been longing to get a high -powered replacement. This is it… Considering you can find this online around 1700-1800 + shipping and FFL fee it has come within realistic reach for many more. Would love to hold one to verify its fit and style but like other things may very well be purchased sight unseen apart from photos and a few YouTubes.

  • Nate

    Thank you Erik for bringing common sense to this discussion. 1st. the rifle is gorgeous. 2nd. ?pistol grip!?!? seriously? need i say more? this isn’t an ar-15. your not going to do any CQB with this rifle. 3. as Erik mentioned shooting a rifle chambered for .338 lapua mag requires strong well made materials thus surpassing your $1000 limit. Look at what this rifle comes with, $2200 is quite economicly friendly for this particular rifle especially when you consider the alternatives ex: 98bravo costs about $4500. this is a rifle that when chambered with the .338 lapua mag has an effective range of approx. 1400 meters. this is outstanding. and is more rifle than most shooters are used to shooting. yes the rounds are expensive. for a couple reasons though, 1 is your paying for performance and a quality round. right now its kind of an odd ball but eventually as the U.S. Military utilizes this round we will eventually see this in military surplus. It will become a little cheaper then.
    If not, oh well with this rifle and round all you need is one shot right?
    Leave it to savage to make it better and more economically friendly than anyone else. I’ll be playing with my Savage 10 fcp McMillan .308 while i save for this. I have no doubt it will be well worth it.

  • Our Savage 110 BA in .338 Lapua Mag caliber has been shipped and we expect delivery to our dealer within the next two weeks. Before we get our hands on it, the dealer will mount a Nightforce NXS2256 scope and a Barrett BORS system with a Harris bipod underneath and bore sight it for 200 yards. We should have it at the local range by early June so we will report back on how it shoots. We looked at both the Savage 110 BA and the Sako TRG-42 and decided to go with the less expensive of the two first. But in keeping in line with our shopping weakness, we ordered a TRG-42 with the same accessory set up (less the Harris bipod) as the 110 BA for delivery in mid June. We will be comparing them for 1000 yd plus accuracy using hand loads after both have had an equal amount of 250 and 300 gr factory factory rounds put through the barrels.

  • Don of the dead

    Purchased one today, WOW feels great in my hands. I will be scoping it up and adding a bipod this weekend, should have it out to the range on Wednesday.

    To my eye there is nothing ugly about this rifle whatsoever. The side rails are, to me, a waste.

    If you shoot .338 Lapua you must use Hornady at almost half the price of Lapua proper these are an excellent source of casings for reload too.

  • Matt

    Don – Where did you get yours? This is on my list and thus far have found noone with one in stock either locally of via reputable Online Dealers.

    Secondly, how much did you have to shell out?

    Thanks – Matt

  • Matt,

    I got mine at Bolsa Gunsmithing in Westminster CA.

    Call Jason/Bolsa at (714) 894-9100

  • Don of the dead


    I am in the western provinces of Canada. My local gun store ordered one for me about 9 weeks ago. I paid $2150 CDN for it.

  • Don of the dead

    Quick question for 110 BA owners… Did you have any trouble with the rail/scope mounting? The gunsmith at the store where I purchased the savage bore sighted the scope but said the windage is maxed out to the right so I have no correction available. The scope is a Bushnell 4.5-30×50 6500 Elite less than 6 months old (worked and mounted perfectly on my browning), rings are Nightforce and are new, and of course the rifle/rail are new too.

    Have a look at it here…


    • Jack

      I tried to leave this message before but something screwed up. Anyway, I’ve got a Night Force 12-42x56mm NP2DD. There’s a 20 moa built into the mounting rail. I can’t get a elevation zero even at 200 yards. I haven’t gotten to shoot it much yet but I’m guessing I’ll have to be in the area of 500 yards to get my zero with that rail scope combo. That might help with questions on zeroing at closer ranges. And with that built in 20 moa, I don’t know how your getting that good of a shot grouping at 200 or less. Anyway, I got mine and am ENJOYING every second of it. All though I have a little trouble getting my first round from the magazine to feed properly. I end up sliding the bolt half way forward, back off all the way, then push forward till lock. Works good that way. But was wondering if anybody else had run into that issue?

      • Matt

        Hey Jack – In my application, using 300g SMK @ 2,766fps muzzle they are laser accurate & consistent at my 100yard Zero. I see some folks reporting they cant get good groups short range, I have not found that to be the case. I have not had an opportunity to test at true long range but they are phenomenal at the ranges I have shot thus far.

        Regarding your 1st round chambering issue, in my case I have had that when inserting the mag and its not seated into the proper position. I will say I am a little disappointed at the fit of the AI mag into this rifle as if you come at it with the wrong angle you can actually get it to lock in but its not seated properly. That may be the issue you are experiencing. For me its coming at it from the stock end with maybe a 30-35degree angle seating the far end first then almost pivoting the mag seating the rear level. Giving it a final wiggle to ensure its locked in. Before I realized this critical secondary – correct – seating I have actually had the mag drop out after the 1st round was fired.

        Was some trial and error on my part, which I have never had to do with any other rifle mag, but once I figured it out its been a non-issue.

        Hope this helps –

  • I just got my 110BA in 338 lapua and shot it for the first time on July 4th, and all I can say is awesome. I had an Armalite AR-30 and sold it to buy this weapon. The AR-30 is a piece of dung compared to the quality of the new Savage. I topped it off with a Burris 6-24-50/30mm tube tactical scope and Harris bipod. I reload and shoot 250 grain Barnes copper solids, with 93 grains H-1000, and Lapua brass. Have not shot any groups yet but will soon have some 300 yd groups to brag about im sure. Once fine tunes will be tossing some at the 1000yd targets.

    • Kerry, great gun eh? I think its awesome.

  • Rick

    I had read a review that stated that the Savage 110BA outshot the Sako TRG-42. The Sako TRG-42 has a 1 in 10″ twist which is ok for the 250gr, but not enough for the 300gr. the Savage has a 1 in 9″ which is better for the 300gr. and the 350gr. when somebody starts marketing them.

  • scol_nz

    Hey John Peoples… Any updates on your 110BA vs TRG42 comparison? It would certainly be of interest to a lot of people.

    Thanks in advance.

  • Finally this morning we picked up the Savage 110 BA with Nightforce scope and BORS. Bolsa Gunsmithing sighted it in for a 100 yard zero which we will bump up to a 200 yd zero for starters when we get it to the range late this week or early next week.

    The TRG exceeded all of my expectations (Including felt recoil) using both 250 and 300 gr factory ammo out to 700 yds which is max for the range we shoot at. We used paper targets at 100 yds and metal rams at 200, 400 and 700 yds. The range master asked it we would stop punching holes in his 300 yd metal rams so we only got 50 rounds through the TRG. It took some getting used to but we eventually managed to get 3 five shot groups at 100 yds under a half inch with both the 250 and 300 gr factory ammo. We plan to use that as a benchmark for the 110 BA.

    The 110 BA as configured is much heavier than the TRG-42 so we expect the felt recoil to be a bit less. (we will publish actual rifle weights in the upcoming comparisons.)

    After the initial 100 to 700 yd test of the 110 BA at the local range, we will make a trip to the desert north of Barstow to set up some 1000 and 1500 targets pitting the 110 BA and the TRG-42 against each other. If I knew how to add a pic of the TRG-42 as equipped, I would,
    (pics are posted on my blog site at

    Please let me know if there are specific comparison tests or configuration specs you would like to have us try and report back on.

    The real comparisons will come when we start using our hand loads with new Lapua brass, Federal 215 primers, Berger 300 gr Hybrid bullets on top of 70.2 gr of Vihtavouri 170 powder.

  • Don

    I lucked out. Cabelas is having a sale this week and mispriced the 110BA. Got it for $1499. Hell of a deal. It’s below their cost. Their mistake was awesome. They are still honoring the advertisement. I recommend anyone to pick this weapon up if you have the means. The sale ends Sep 6th and they close early. I got mine in Glendale AZ.

  • Wendy

    Hey, I am trying to purchase this gun from Cabela’s in MN. They are telling me that I have to be law enforcement or military to get it. Any truth to that?

  • Matt

    Unfortunately Cabelas is misguided in their statemnt to you. As long as there is no calibure restriction in your state regarding civilian ownership of your chambering oif choice its open to all. I read online of folks purcasing from the Cabelas store in PA. If you are comfortable with it find a local FFL tansfer dealer in your area and go thru gunbroker com or straight to East Coast Gun sales. That’s where I got mine. Speak to Justin the sales manger he was great to deal with and they had by far the best price

  • Wendy

    Thanks, Matt, for the information.

    I have an update on what Cabela’s initially told me. Their gun buyer called me today and said that I can buy one and that I was misinformed by the salesman.

    I want to let people know that Cabela’s is doing everything they can to get me one of these. They only have 4 in their stores nationwide right now, and I might have to special order it, but that is okay–I can get my hands on one of these bad boys!!

  • Rick

    I did some research on the Savage 110BA online. This site was one of them. I have several other Savage 110FP’s ranging from .223 – .30-06. never had any complaints. I had been following the Navy’s PSR trials and looked at the rifles being considered. The Savage 110BA was not one of them as far as I know, but was more along the price range I was looking at. I bought one. It was about a month before I had time to take it to the range. I followed the break-in procedures they have on their website. It involves about 20 cleanings in the first 50 rounds. I spent more time cleaning then shooting. None of my other 110’s have the accu-trigger. I gotta be honest, I’m not big on it. I had read a post where a guy had problems with his tripping the sear or something to that effect. He had it checked out and the trigger assembly was defective and had to be replaced. Mine sounds like it is doing the same thing. My wife shot a group with it and liked it. She said it felt like her 20 Ga. Benelli M2 w/ Comfortech may have more felt recoil. It has been a few weeks, but I’m hoping for some cooler weather and some more range time to get down to some serious shooting to see how it holds at some longer ranges. I zeroed at 200 yards and took a few shots at 300 yards. From what I have read and guys I have talked to, the 300 gr. 338LM doesn’t start to stabilize until about 300 yards anyhow. I have read that the .338LM holds the record for the longest shot by a sniper, not the .50 BMG. I’ll let you know how the next shoot turns out. Happy Hunting!

  • brandon kronenbitter

    don of the dead you can use a shim e mail me if you need any info on shims ok b_kronenbitter [at] yahoo [dot] com

  • Bob King

    I have the 110 BA in both the .300 Win. Mag. and the .338 Laupa and as typical with Savage, they are both outstanding firearms. I have the .300WM to practice with becasue I can purchase ammo for around $20 a box. The .338 is used for anything beyond 1000 yds althought the .300 does very well out to about 1300 yds. I’ve tried the .300 at a mile and surprisingly, it did very well. The .338 has no problem at 1760 yds and does very well out to and beyond 2000 yds.

    For the price, I don’t believe you can beat the quality and performance of the Savage 110 BA. Savage makes fine weapons anyway but they’ve done an exceptional job with the BA’s.

  • Brian L

    I bought the Savage 110BAT\S in .308 last year, it’s a great weapon. I’m shooting 1/2″ groups at 200yds with handloads. I have been looking at the 338 LM for several months now and was wondering if anyone has put many rounds through their 338 and if they noticed any loss of accuracy. A dealer told me this might happen with a $2000 338, but if I bought a TRG or an McMillian this wouldn’t be a problem. Any thoughts?

    Someone give me a real good reason why I should get the 338 from savage.

    Thank you.

  • Matt

    Of course a dealer is going to sway towards a rifle costing over 2x what the Savage does its a matter of profit. I have read of folks having put oiver400rounds thru their 110ba and it only got better as time went. I didn’t think twice going this route. Look at it this way if you put a few thousand rounds and need a new barrel you are still far ahead cost-wise. Most would be very well off dollar wise to afford the amount of ammo, even handloading, that will wear out the barrel. Assuming the ammo and conditions are right it should last you nearly a lifetime. Again if you are a full timer and will put several K rounds thru check on the cost of a rebarrel. It still won’t bring you near what an upfront TRG would.

  • Brian L

    Matt. Thank you for the response. I kinka thought that was a good part of the reason they wanted me to buy the more expensive rifle, but would have thought they still would have given me some sound advise. I went agian to look at it today, and also starting pricing out reloading dies power and bullets. I can already see there is more to this investment than just the rifle. BUT it is a sharp looking rilfe. If I get it in the next couple of weeks I’ll post it. Thank you for the advise.

  • brandon

    hey brian L. i have putt about 1k 1/2 rounds in my 110ba and befor i got it i looked around and found this that if you dont clean and i mean clean the barrel of any “foreign” matter then yes by the time you putt about 2k rounds in it your have a barrel with such decrease accuracy it defeats any and all resons for buying this rifle if you use the match ammo and clean your barrel you should not think twice about getting the savage 110ba now for the price ok its 2000 but realy dont mean any thing but greatness savage has one of the top ranking shooting teams and they use the same 110ba.338 and as for the TRG or an McMillian they are great rifles they do there jobs and vary well i might add but for half the price you cant beat it.

  • Matt

    Brian L your welcome. I hope you get one. I haven’t yet shoit mine as I am in the phase of getting the scope and mounts. I am watching various dies to see what I want to get. As I am sure you hae ound there is a wide variance of cost. I have contacted Lee Precision as I am a big fan of their dies. Sadly they are cost prohibitive for a custom set oif 338LPM dies which totally dissapoints me. I am leaning oin the side of getting two boxes of factory match from HSM once I get my scope to zero in and get a baseline for which of the two gain weights it will prefer. I am hoping with the 1 in 9 twist it will enjoy the 300gainers. I paid 1775 thru gunbroker going to East Coast Gun sales. The manager was awesome to deal with. That plus ffl fee brought it to me for almost 500bucks under msrp. Hope it helps

  • brandon

    looking to get a new scope for my 110 ba any one have some ideas tell me what you guys are useing my old schmidt bender just is not cutting it any more

  • Matt

    I will be putting a SWFA SS16x42 or 10X HD on mine. I have seen these in action and are clear, have massive MOA adjustment range, excellent zero repeatability and are built like a tank.

  • Brian L

    brandon, Nightforce NXS 8-32×56 NP2DD Reticle. I have this on my Savage BAT/S in .308, and it work great. You get a nice clear image out to 500 + yards. So for what you might pay for a new schmidt or even US Optics you get a lot for the money with the Nightforce.

  • Will

    Here’s my rebuttal to a review I found on’s forums:

    I happen to own one of these weapons, so I would like to give you all my review after tinkering with various factory and handloads.

    1.) I paid $1700 for mine– certainly worth it compared to the M-14 National Match I bought several years ago, and have since sold due to its inability to reliably and accurately fire handloads of any length other than standard factory ammo.

    2.) My scope and ring setup is a bit more, shall we say, “solid.” Medium height Burris Tactical (6 screw rings) with a Leupold VX-III 8.5-25x LR/T on top.

    3.) Accuracy was incredible for factory loads, even with the 180gr Hornady SST Super Performance (1.41″ at 200yds) as you used in your testing. That being said, this weapon was not a big fan of 190gr Federal Gold Medal Match (SMK) with groups ranging from 1.9-2.2″ at 200 yards. That’s not horrible, but also not what I paid $1700 for– therefore, I looked elsewhere.

    Initial testing was done at 200 yards out of the prone with a 6-9″ Adjustable Harris Bipod at the 6″ setting. Further, I have tested multiple handloads out of this weapon. I intend to continue my accuracy testing in a few months when I get home from Afghanistan. In that, I will add 210gr SMK’s to the mix, in addition to trying longer load lengths, probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 3.45-3.6″ assuming they will fit the magazine. Hopefully I should be able to gain somewhere between 100 and 175fps out of the muzzle if my calculations are correct, after having added more powder. Lastly, I have tested this weapon out to 800 yards with the H100V 190 SMK and 200 NP loads listed below. Accuracy for the 190 was 6.34″ from outside to outside, and with the 200NP was 7.21″ outside to outside. These groups were measured with Cabela’s electronic calipers, and are the average of 3 4-shot groups.

    The loads below were shot at 200yds in manner described above while it was roughly 80 degrees (F) with a no-value wind (12-6 oclock at <5mph).

    Bullet Type Pwd Amt Pwd Type Grp Sz (") MV ME
    175SMK 67.5 H100V 0.789 2950 3377
    175SMK 69.5 H100V 0.783 2975 3435
    190SMK 63 H100V 1.55 2800 3303
    190SMK 67.5 RE-19 1.241 2725 3129
    200 Nos Part 65.5 H100V 0.769 2730 3305

    Overall, I am very satisfied with my investment thus far. Recoil is nearly non-existent, accuracy is incredible, and the trigger, well it's just astounding how smooth and crisp it is– Savage did shooterkind a service when designing the Accu-Trigger.

    While I've done a great job touting Savage with the above review, be aware I am in NO WAY affiliated with Savage Arms– I am a simple Marine grunt that loves putting lead down range.

  • brandon

    brian L and matt think you for your input i have been looking at the nightforce for a whill ill let you guys know what i get

  • Chrisy

    I have been shooting my 110BA Savage, .338 Lapua Mag with Leupold Mil Dot Optics for over a month and can’t describe the awesome power, range and accuracy. Even with my reloaded ammo (about half the cost of new ammo)! I am usually the only lady on the range when I shoot, but the guys always take notice! Most asked question is if the recoil is too much to handle? My answer is “no”, if you use good shooting technique. The weight is heavy, but not a problem. Took a lot of time to get it, but it was well worth the wait… I love it!

  • Matt

    Chrisy – Care to share your handloads? Interested in your 100yard groups and what COAL, powder grain weight, primer & projectile you are using. Thanks –

  • Brian L

    Christy; Matt had requested some reloading data from you, which I would be interested in as well, but my questions are; what range have you been shooting at? Anything past 600 yds? And do you find the cheek pad and the butt pad too thin? Thank you. brian L.

  • Brandon

    Has anybody had any problems with the factory mount not being level once fully assembled?

  • Matt

    No problem with the assembly & the mount being true/level. I went with heavy loc-tite on the screws once in and everything lined up perfectly on mine. One thing I did notice, I cant really explain it other than perhaps a strange reflection due to an old flash on my camera. I have a pic that makes the mount looking like it has a purple-ish hue to it. I had a heavy coat of rem-oil on the entire gun when I took a picture when I first got it. Looking at it with the naked eye and even under bright light it looks totally black. Was strange. Perhaps there is something in the finish of the mount only that when combined with oil & a flash of a camera gives off a different color. Since it looks fine with the naked eye I wrote it off to a heavy coat of oil and my flash starting to go south but it was curious.

  • I just picked up a Savage in 338 Lapua also, shot some hornady factory ammo. At 100 yards it was no problem to shoot a 1 hole group. I started to shoot groups at 300 yards but was distracted by our 6″ steel plates which I could consistantly whack with ease. The power of this round is awsome it would flip them around twice. I have shot the plates with many other calibers and have never flipped one over the bar. The plates weigh about 5 or 6 lbs each. We also have some 12″x12″ plates that weigh about 25#’s, it wont flip them over but will definately swing them real good. Thinking about putting a vortex tactical scope on the rifle not sure yet been using a Nikon Monarch target retical scope but want something with mill dots. My brother Kerry Evans also posting on here has one also, we are competitive shooters(with each other) I am sure we will push the guns to the outer limits of long. Cant wait to see what they will do. Got my reloading dies this week hoping to get some test loads to work with soon. Thinking about a cool duracoat paint job to make the Savage 10BA look even more BAD!

  • brandon

    found out what the matter was the rail was bent just a little but its good got it fixed and up and running good shot today again at 800 + puching hole in my steel plates 1 inch grouping

  • Matt

    Casey, thanks for the info. That is great info, I would LOVE to smack steel around but I dont have an area near me to do so. If you could please share your load/experiences. From what I have been reading it sounds like the 1:9 twist of the 110ba has a preference for the 300grain rounds over the 250s. I have been looking at using either H1000, Retumbo or N570 but not sure which to go with. The first two are more readily available to me where I live. Interested to know what die set you went with. I am looking at going with a Redding 3 die set from Midway (just over 100bucks) and picking up a single stage classic cast from Lee and their larger series factory crimp die. I LOVE the Lee crimp dies and I am taken back that Lee Precision does not have the 338LPM in a production set. Even the cost of the factory crimp is not right, but it wont stop me. Thanks –

  • brandon

    hey guys looking to get in to reloading what is the maker of the RELOADING DIES
    you guys useing

  • Brian L

    Brandon, I typically use a combination of RCBS and Redding dies. FYI; it might be worth getting Redding Competition dies. If not the full set, at least a Competition Seating die. Just my opinion; research RCBS vs Redding dies on the internet.

  • If you use RCBS they are fine. Much cheaper too. For the extra money it cost for competition dies you can buy the Hornady concentricity guage which is one AWSOME tool that works great on all centerfire rounds it checks your bullet concentricity and lets you fix it if its off . I use it on all my reloads and it will tell the tale if your bullets and case necks are true.

  • brandon

    thank you casey evans odered from rcbs great on cost ill be looking in to the Hornady concentricity guage next

  • Rick

    I have been using RCBS reloading equipment for years. Whenever I had had a problem; and there haven’t been many, I would call and get an immeadiate response. I have an extensive collection of RCBS and have been told my reloading bench looks like an RCBS Advertisement. I worked at a local gun shop part-time while I was in school and talked to the people who used the stuff. Most of them said RCBS was the way to go.

  • I can vouch for the Hornady concentricity tool. I use it on all of my rifle reloads from .223 up to the .338 Lapua Mag. I also use it on factory rounds which to my surprise, some of which were out of spec.

  • I have mostly RCBS stuff as the have by far the best customer service of all the reloading companies . I had there bullet and casing guage and the book was an inch thick to learn how to operate it. I sold it and bought the hornady version and it is much easier to use. Anyone tried the berger 300 grain bullets yet? I have some on back order and will try them as soon as I can get them.

  • brandon

    what kind of powder are you guys useing for 250 gr. and 300 gr

  • Brandon,

    I use Vihtavouri N165 and N170 with Lapua brass and Large Rifle Magnum primers.

    250 gr Berger Hybrids with 93.9 gr of N170 for my Sako TRG-42

    300 gr Berger Hybrids with 80.2 gr of N165 for my Savage 110 BA

    Both loads shoot well and give the accuracy I need. So far, we have not experienced any pressure problems with either load. We will chrono both loads before the end of November.

  • Kerry

    Well I shot the 110 BA yesterday using the new Barnes copper solid ballistic 265 grains with US 869, it didnt like them at all, shot all over the place at 300yds, not happy about that

  • Rick

    As I had mentioned before, the people I have talked with; that have a lot more experience than me, have told me the .338 LM doesn’t start to stabilize until around 300 yards. Why would you want to use a round capable of a 1.54 mile shot at 300 yards? I would say, if you want something that is going to shoot tight groups at 300 yards, stick with a .223 or .308. Just my opinion. Just a suggestion, try shooting those solid copper Barnes’ at about 1000-1200 meters, i think you be happier.

  • Kerry

    In response to Rick, If a gun won’t group at 300 it certaintly won’t group at 1000. With a gun like this you still zero it at 300, before you stretch it’s legs to 1000 and beyond. And yes anyone who owns this type of weapon, did not get it to shoot 300 yds.

  • Kerry,

    We did manage to shoot a 5 shot group at 300 yards using factory HSM 300 gr HPBT at just over an inch. A poc of the grtroup can be seen at the following link.

  • With the hornady factory 338 ammo I shot a 3 shot group at 100 yards in one hole. So I am not really sold on the bullet stabilization at 300 yards stuff. I sighted this gun in @ 100 with a new scope . If a bullet comes out a barrel spinning it will either be spinning stable out of the barrel or it will tumble. I would have to see it on film to believe otherwise

  • Rick

    Even Lapua recommends a 600 yard zero

  • Rick

    I guess maybe somebody may have been feeding me a bunch of B.S. then. oh well. so that leaves two possibilities, either the rifle is a piece of crap or the ammo is. or three… the shooter.

  • Matt

    jPeoples- I have used HSM when I had a 50BMG and found it to actually be quite accurate. I was considering getting a box of HSM to at least get her zereod. Wasnt sure which way to go, the 250s or 300s, sounds like the 300s are good in the 110ba. Given the 1:9 Twist it should be quite conducive to the 300grainers. Can you tell me what brand brass casings do they use in the HSM rounds you fired?

    Casey – I completely agree with you. Bullet stabilization is either going to happen or its not. A projectile can de-stabilize over distance for various reasons but for it to not stabilize within the first 25-50 yards (ie good 100yard zero) then become stable at 3x that distance doesn’t make sense. What I can see is something being dead on at 100 and not as tight at 1000yd as a result of lack of velocity or destabilization due to non-ideal bullet:Twist rate choice;

    Rick – I believe the recommendations of 300 & 600 yard zeroes aren’t because a round is at its most accurate point. It is so the shooter doesn’t spend all day cranking up MOAs on the scopes to compensate for drop. Many do this also because of their scope of choice does not have 100-120MOA of adjustment to have a 100yard zero and get out to 1800+meters of pure adjustment. If you start off with a zero that is in-between the min/max you usually shoot then you are only traveling 1/2 the distance either way on adjustments. A decent amount of time would be spent too cranking up that much MOA. Only a good scope would have the repeatability to return to zero after that much adjusting.

  • Matt – Not sure of the brand HSM used so I sent an inquiry through Sniper Central to find out. We will be at Angeles Shooting Range on Nov. 10 with the 110 BA and we will be using the last 22 rounds of factory HSM 300 gr HBPT before going to 300 gr reloads. We will keep better records on all shots and post the results here on the blog.

  • Rifle twist has everything to do with bullet stabilization. If you try to put a bullet that is to large or small for a certain twist rate it will not stabilize. As long as you have in the correct range for your twist rate it should have some level of accuracy. Obviously not every bullet/Powder combo is going to produce accuracy . That is the great thing about reloading, experimentation is what makes it fun. If you find something that works good, post it for others to use as a baseline and maybe it will save them a few steps in finding that perfect load. I have had two Win Model 70’s in 300 WSM one shot 150 Grain Barnes TSX bullets in 3/8″ groups with IMR 4350 and CCI Mag Primers The other would shoot that same load at about 1 1/2″ groups. Same twist in both rifles same barrel length one was a standard hunting barrel the other a semi bull fluted barrel. So from one rifle to the next you could have huge variances in the way any given load may shoot. Its great having a starting point and someone elses experiences to help get started anyway. I have tried stuff over the years that were complete failures in accuracy , that is what they make bullet pullers for ! I am sure since my Brother and I both have a Savage 10 BA we will find loads that shoot great in mine and not in his and visa versa . I do know thing we will have one heck of a good time finding out.

  • Kerry

    Rick you dont shoot much or reload your own ammo do you………

  • Matt

    jpeoples- Thanks would definitely appreciate the info and specifics on your handloads (powder, primer, COAL & which 300g projectile you chose). I am back and forth trying to decide which projectile to invest in. When I was doing my loads for my 308Winchester I found a company that sold bullets PER and this was AWESOME. What I did was buy an assortment of different bullets and weights. It economically allowed me to find the best projectile for my CZ-550 Varmint Laminate. Unfortunately they only go up to .30cal and dont offer .338 else I would be doing the same again. Looking between the 250g or 300g there is a mix of Hornady, Scenar, Sierra & Bergers used. I am probably going to err on the side of 300g projectiles (pls let me know if you find the 250s better in the 110BA). Seems most folks are using either the Sierra Matchkings (which are awesome in my 7mm Remington Mag) or the Berger Hybrids (Berger VLD Target Match is my choice in the 308Winchester) which I have heard VERY mixed write-ups when pushed within the specs of the 338 LAPUA. Even a direct writeup from the company stated it was borderline in the LAPUA. Thanks for any/all info –

  • Matt

    I just got a response from Mel @ SniperCentral and he states that for the 338 its HSM branded brass. I am sure someone makes it for them but its supposedly head-stamped HSM for select calibers. I am assuming its re loadable, haven’t gotten a response yet on that question.

  • Brian L

    Well I finally bought the 110BA, but I have to wait for Christmas to pay for it all. But it’s going to be mine, so for now I’ll be taking in what everyone writes in and storing it in the back of my brain somewhere. I’ll be researching the reloading dies, still thinking of going with the Redding, and most likely buying my bullets and powder. So you guys keep on submitting the ideas because I’m listening. You can tell by my e-mail I’m really happy-right 🙂

  • Matt – We made up 50 rounds for the 110 BA shoot on the 10th. Here are the loading specs:
    Bullet Berger 300 gr Hybrid
    Case Once fired Lapua
    Powder Vihtavouri N170 70.2 gr
    Primer Federal 215
    OAL 3.681 in

    I have had great success with Berger VLDs in both my 7mm Mag and .270 Win.
    So far, I am able to shoot smaller groups at 300 yds using the 300 gr rounds in the 110 BA and 250 gr in the Sak0 TRG-42. The two biggest variables in the process are me and barrel heating. I noticed that I start to flinch after about 20 rounds with either rifle with the tightest groups happening within the first 6 to 7 rounds. After that, the groups start to open up. Barrel heating could also be a factor.

  • Matt

    jpeoples – Thanks for the info. How are your groupings at 100yards with the 110ba and those 300g Hybrids? Most of what I read actually points me away from those in .338Lapua but your experience with them sounds promising. I thought the N560 & N570 (new) powders were specially for overboard mags like the 338, wasn’t aware N170 was an option. I was really hoping you were going to say H-1000 or the likes as V- powders are not very easy to find where I live here. Have you Chrono’d any of these Hybrids coming out of the 110ba? Would like to know how hard you are pushing them. If you state they are good out of the 110ba then I will be picking up those as my projectiles of choice. Also, do you put any crimp on your rounds? Despite various recommendations against I always put a light factory crimp w/ Lee dies on all my rifle rounds and they have been hole-touching accurate at 100yards. I expect to do the same with the 338LPM rounds, especially to counter set-back, but wanted to know your process. Please post your results after tomorrows outing. I am anxious to hear. Enjoy-

  • Matt

    jpeoples- Just did a quick check on MidwayUSA for the powder you use, the N170. It states that the Vihtavouri N170 is discontinued by Manufacturer. Are you aware of this or could this be incorrect? Thanks –

  • If its brass its reloadable

  • The N170 is no longer. I am a dealer and looked at all my suppliers and it is no loger listed

  • Some load data I found searching the net:
    Load 10033 in caliber .338 Lapua Magnum

    LoadID 10033
    Bullet Sierra Matchking
    BulletWeight 300 grs
    Powder Alliant Reloader 25
    PowderWeight 89 grs
    Primer Federal 215M
    Brass Make Lapua
    Barrel Length 28 (inches)
    C.O.L 3.73 (inches)
    Velocity 2735 fps
    Group 0.018 (inches by 3 shot at 100 yds)
    Submitted Date 2/13/2005 9:46:00 PM
    Submitted By Will Cocke
    Gun Info GA Precision
    Comment 5 shot at 100 yards .018 at 400 yards .780 at 1000 yards 2.478

  • Matt- Midway lists N170 as “Temporarily Unavailable”. Sinclair has it for sale at $31.95/lb. My local dealer “The Stockade” in Westminster CA also keeps a good supply in inventory. It is easy to find on the Web. I have not heard about N170 being discontinued so I will contact Vihtavouri direct to find out. I went with N160 and N170 based on a recommendation from a long distance shooter who has used all four powders and then settled on the N170 and N160 for his 110BA. Probably I will try to work up some loads using the N560 and N570 after the first of the year. Perfecting loads with different powders seems to be an obsession for me which my wife calls a sickness.

    At first, you could drive a truck through my 100 yard groups without touching a shot hole. It was that way with both the 110 BA and the Sako TRG-42. After about 100 rounds through both and I get accustomed to the recoil, the groups started to get smaller so I blame the big groups on me and bad technique and not the ammo nor the rifles. Tomorrow we will shoot both 300 and 250 gr rounds at 100 and 300 yds with the 110 BA and blog the results.

    I do not put a crimp on my handloaded rounds since I chamber them one at a time and not from the magazine so I don’t have a setback problem. We plan to chrono both the 250 gr and 300 gr Berger Hybrids on our next trip to the range after this one which will be in December. It will be a technical shoot with emphasis on recording velocity and we will also blog those result also.

  • Matt- I didn’t realize that I was out of HSM factory 300 gr loads so we shot HSM 250 gr rounds only at Angeles Shooting Range. Best group at 100 yds was 4 shots with a 1.1 in spread. There was a bunch of silhouette shooting at the range so we did not get the opportunity to shoot paper at 300 yds. We did however do well in the non formal silhouette shooting. With the 250 gr HSM ammo we hit 100% of the metal targets with 5 shots each at 300, 400 and 600 yds. Each silhouette had a fresh coat of paint so the spotters had no problem identifying hits. We could hear the hits at 300 and 400 yds but not at 600 yds. It could be that the barrel on the 110 BA has settled down and that is the reason for the increase in accuracy at distance with the 250 gr rounds.

    Temp was 62 degrees
    Humidity was 52%
    Wind was a direct value from the right between 3 and 6 mph

    Sorry I could not capture better information.

    Time to re-trench and create some 300 gr hand loads for next month.

  • Rick

    What’s with the attack Dude?

  • Matt

    jpeoples – Thanks for taking all the time for providing the info, its greatly appreciated by myself and I am sure others as well. The 1.1″ Grouping seems large at that distance. Do you feel that is the best that HSM could give in the 250s in the 110ba? When I had my 50bmg I had HSM ammo that touched holes at 100yards. Granted this was MANY years ago I only assume the same quality is in the current production. I am very anxious to hear about your 300g experience and specifically the Hybrids in the 110BA. I am getting close to coming up with some dollars to purchase components and trying to determine the ideal projectile to start with for that rifle as you have experienced. Did you shoot any of the 300s with the above info you noted about the 50 rounds you made for the shoot the other day? How did they do. Looking at your 70.2g if the PDF I read was correct that is way below the start charge (from memory I think it was around 80gish starting). So I am curious how that went out of the 110ba? Thank you again –

  • Rick

    Matt, you can take it or leave it, up to you. Somebody else here chose to personally attack me. I have been reloading for years and why they say I haven’t, I don’t know. They don’t know me and I don’t know them. I have been on shoots where “we” have radar tracking on each individual round and high speed photo. I’ve seen factory ammo come apart in mid-flight. I talk to experts, most everything you hear is opinion. So, don’t listen to me. But if it makes you think, might give you a direction to go. I can’t tell you where I got my info, i signed a non-disclosure agreement, so I cannot share. Some have to go with the lowest bidder to get their components, and you get what you pay for! I shoot for a living everyday.

  • Loaded some RL 25 @94.5 gr a little to hot . Didnt run it through the chrony but had to poke the shell out with a cleaning rod. Funny thing was the primer barely showed any pressure. I backed off to 93.5 gr no problems, will chronograph next week. Loading the hornady 250gr match Hollow point. Just put a scope and loaded some shells to sight in so no accuracy data as of yet. I shot these bullets in a factory round and they shot awsome. No telling what Hornady is packing in the cases for powder though. Oh well that is the fun of reloading and tinkering with a new rifle. Will update next week. We only have a 300 yard range at our gun shop hoping to get one out to 600 this spring and also find a power line lane to really reach out.

  • Matt- Two errors on my part. First, on the previous post, the humidity at Angeles Shooting Ranges was 15% not 56%. Second error, I forgot to address the 20 rounds of HSM 300 gr rounds that we did fire in the morning before we set up for the HSM 250 gr. We did not fire any of the 300 gr hand loads. The HSM 300 gr grouped at .81 in at 100 yds with all holes touching for 18 of the 20 rounds with 2 flyers due to me flinching prior to trigger release. So once again, the rifle is more accurate than I am. I didn’t chrono the 300 gr loads so I don’t know what the velocity was. Based on what I have been reading on the forum and your posts, I am going back to the reloading manuals to look for a 300 gr load better than the 70.2 gr load. Overall, the 100BA gets better as more rounds are fired and it seems to digest both the 250 and 300 gr rounds equally well. The real test will come if and when we get the opportunity to shoot out to 1000 yds and beyond.

    More to follow after the trip to the range in December

  • Kerry

    Rick, no attack intended

  • Matt

    Thanks to everyone for your input, do please keep posting.

    jpeoples – Thanks for the update/corrections and elaborating. I am set on the 300s but not yet certain if I should go with the Matchkings or the Berger Hybrids. Currently looking for some once fired Lapua brass to start the collection. Do keep me/us posted on your findings with the 300 handloads. Very interested to know.

  • Matt

    Forgot to note in the last post – Contacted Hornady directly the other day and found out the scoop on the new 285g long range .338BT round. There is note of it on their site regarding the winning 1000yd competition results. Its in pre-production not but yet released to the public nor are the specs regarding BC or cost. They noted it should be in the beginning on Jan for release. Kind of curious to see how this rates.

  • brandon

    hey looking for some good powder people had said on here that n170 was the way to go but every were i look i cant find it in stock some one eles had said on here its not for sale any more so any input would be great thanks

  • Matt

    Brandon , I am going to be picking up some H-1000 this weekend and do my workups from 88-91.5g. I have seen many folks state the H-1000 is very clean and well apt in the .338LPM. Hope this helps –


    ba-10 in 338 ,,,, stupid question, what distance should i zero my scope for long range shooting ?

  • Matt:
    Vihtavouri Availability follow up:

    Subject: RE: Enquiry from
    Date: November 30, 2010 5:00:27 PM PST

    Dear John,

    No, these have not been disconinued These are still all being produced and available.

    In fact, we have the N160 and N165 in stock now if you would like to order.

    Best regards,

    Jeannie Bolda
    Product Manager
    Kaltron Outdoors
    Vihtavuori, Lapua, B & P Shells and MSA/Sordin Ear Muffs
    Hengye USA Adsorbents

  • brandon

    matt thank you i will pick some up soon and you say that with the
    h-1000 used 88 grains up to 91.5 grains

  • brandon

    any use the N165 what is your load plan
    and what is the better of the 2 powders h1000 or the n165

  • loaded RL25 93.2 grains , CCI Magnum Primers and hornady 250 grain HP Match bullets . Shot pitifully would not group at 300 yards didnt shoot it any closer shot 10 rounds for about a 2 foot group. Pitiful! Dont waste your time with RL 25 on 250 grain bullets will retry with 300 grain bullets when I can get some.

  • Rick

    I tried to tell ya all earlier about the 300 yard zero, i got slammed. I looked at the film again, still had a lot of yaw. The 250’s fall off at 1200-1300. 300’s do better out to 1500+. I’m just telling ya what i have seen, do what works for you.

  • I shot this gun at 300 with hornady factory 250 grain HP match and it shot fine . It just didnt like the RL25

  • Brian L

    Rick where can we view this video, or is it something you can publish on youtube?

  • brandon

    i did my zero at 100 yards it was a lil low at 1st then when to 200 and then 300 yards . i started out at 100 cuss at 100 if your not shooting good 100 your going to have a hell of a time shooting at 300 to 500 yards and to hit on what rick had said 300 yards is a good zero and should read the other post to see what other people have said … but ok 300 is good but the farther out you zero your rifle the better .as long as you have a realistic zero and shooting should be ok ex. dont zero your ba at 1100 yards and then think your going to hit a deer / target or what have you .at 25 yards

  • Matt

    Whelp finally got my components in for the test loads for the 110ba. Using new Hornady brass & H1000 powder put together 300SMKs with a COAL 3.680. This length chambers no problem in the 110ba. Started at 88g which will also be my sight-in load then working up to 91.5 in 1/2g increments. Hopefully will be able to get out soon to see which does the best & if possible will chrono. Will post results when I can.

  • Don of the dead

    Matt I think you will find with the Hornady Brass as you approach 90 grains that bolt lift will become very stiff if not down right impossible. At 90 grains I had 2 rounds shot when the second casing became stuck in breech.

    I am presently awaiting the arrival of a shipment of Lapua brass and then once again I will begin to work up to and hopefully beyond 90 grains of H1000.

    Good luck to you.

  • Matt

    Don, thanks for the info. That would have been handy to know before I assembled the loads, LoL… Fingers crossed that I can go thru them all. If not, will pull the projectiles and save the rest.

    Just curious, what did you have to do to remove the stuck case? The ole ram-rod down the bore?

    I went with the Hornady due to cost. I have heard mixed results some stating no problems other stating bolt list issues at lower charges vs Lapua. Lapua brass should come down in price as all brass should in this chambering. Its an unfair market ploy. Look at a 50BMG, MUCH more brass and MUCH MORE pressure yet significantly cheaper than a .338LPM brass. Same for dies. What gives? Just a general rant which still gets to me.

    I hope I can get thru my loads with no issues. I have 10 rounds @ 88.0, 3@88.5, 3@89.0, 3@89.5, 3@90.0, 3@90.5, 3@91.0 & 3@91.5

    Would hate not to be able to go above 90 and shoot a dozen rounds less. What makes me wonder as I read of others and up to 92g which starts being a compressed load being shot in the Savage 110ba with Hornady brass and no bolt lift. How is it some do and some dont? Is it the rifle or the particular lot of brass, or both?

  • Brian L

    Don, do you do Neck resizing during your re-laoding process? I also have just started reloading 40 rounds of Hornady brass using H1000 and have made several rounds past 90 grains.

  • Matt

    Brian – Have you launched your Hornady loads yet? I am not sure when I am going to get out, hopefully sooner vs later. From what I am reading I am considering disassembling the rounds over 90g, maybe even including 90 and bringing them under 88. I have 90.0, 90.5, 91.0 & 91.5s which I am wondering if I should take apart.

    I really dont want to but I also dont want stuck brass issues either. Pls let me know – thanks,

  • Shooting Nut

    I’ve been thinking about purchasing a long range rifle. the .338 Lapua, .408 Chey Tac, .416 Barratt, or a .50 BMG. As for me, punching holes in paper or beating up on some steel targets, is enough. But, when I take out a relative novice to go shooting I need two things to hook them on the sport. First, they need to be able to hit the target often, and second, the target needs to be something fun to shoot. So, what will a .338 Lapua do to a watermelon at 400 yards. Because I’ll guarantee you this, a person new to the sport will be instantly hooked if they fire a powerful rifle and watch a watermelon vaporize 400 yards away. So, does anyone have any experience with the .338 and watermelon hunting?

  • Matt

    S. Nut- Here is a link for ya, its not a watermelon, but its a water jug at 300yards with a 338LPM. Unclear what type of projectile which of course makes a world of difference but still a nice effect in the end.

  • Brian L

    Matt. I have not had a chance to get out yet, however after reading the comments about the stuck loads I might think about doing what you mentioned earlier.

  • Matt

    Whelp as much as it pained me I pulled all the projectiles and recycled the powder that were 90.0g and up. Going to put together tomorrow ones under 88.0 with the dozen I recovered. Had to order a correct size collet for my hornady bullet puller. This is by far THE BEST way to recover projectiles. For the exception of the 1st one as I was getting the adjustment correct not a mark on any of the bullets once pulled. Only a slight ring from the brass. Still unsure when I can get out to launch them after I put together the rest tomorrow but will do my best to chrono when I do.

    Any real data/experiences with the Hornady & H1000 in the meantime would be appreciated!

  • Shooting Nut

    Matt, thank-you very much. That’s a great video, and that is the result I’m looking for. Good to know that it can be achieved with a .338 Lapua. Thank-you again.

  • You people are insulting this gun by talking about shooting 1, 2, and 300 yds. Other than shifting gale force winds, almost anyone can shoot 1″ groups at above ranges. Let’s hear more 800 yd groupings.

  • Hi Don.

    For me, it is a problem finding a place to shoot at 700 yds plus. Our local range has metal targets out to 600 yds with no provision for paper targets so it is either a hit or a miss without any data on group size. We do plan to make a trip to the desert and set up steel plates at 1000 and 1500 yds in February so we will report back on the groupings.

    Do you shoot the .338 Lapua Mag round?

  • Matt

    Correlating an insult to the a gun by talking about shooting 1, 2, and 300 yds instead of 800+ is like saying someone owning a performance sports car or bike is insulting the car/bike unless it can have its capabilities pushed.

    Folks buy sports cars & bikes when the speed limit is 60MPH. The only way to stretch its legs is to go to a closed track (or shipped to Germany) where you can legally wind it out.

    Not everyone has the land/space/fortunate ability to be around long distance all the time or even at all.

    Its the enjoyment that counts. I digress – If anyone can provide velocity data from any H-1000 powder & 300g SMKs it would be appreciated. I just made 20 rounds for sighters at 88.0g and will post data from that and the additional workups as I go. Thanks –

  • Brian L

    In Socal you are lucky to find a range more than 600yds.

  • TO: Brian L and others. OK, OK, enuff is enuff. My elitist snob remark about insulting the rifle shooting at less than 500 yds is retracted. I get in the car, drive 5 min (if not too cold), can drive down the rough path (it’s frozen now — easy to travel), put up the target, and drive back up to 1200 yds, get out all my “stuff” and BOOM! I know the farmer, he’s given permission. Simple. No rangemaster, no other shooters unless someone has invited me or I have invited them to go along.

    The original remark was simply praise for the accuracy of the rifle. Sounds like most of you who commented are tight group shooters. Which is fine. I have been shooting an acquaintances rifle. He did the hard work B4 Winter came. Scheels screwed up my order 3X, taking some 2.5 months to get me a scope and rings. Get one, wrong one, send it back, wrong one. etc. etc. And forget to call me when the replacements came in. A nightmare.

    The friends 110 BA in .338 Lapua magnum last shot a “group” @ 1010 yds of a 10″ equilateral triangle. Using std PRVI 250 grain solid point. Since we bought our rifles, ammo has skyrocketed. We have started to reload our own. No report to offer.

    Now, if SoCal would get out of that smog filled, debt-ridden state, sell your half million dollar house, come to IA, BUILD your own custom, 2 BR, 2 bath house for $200K………..(plug, plug). There’s a 99′ X 165′ lot right next door to me for $31K. Already has a dubl garage on it. (plug, plug)

    • DarkestPhoenix

      Don ~

      I’m in Iowa, too, (Grinnell) and just got my own 110 BA in 338. Feel free to contact me at my “work” email:

      I would love to go shooting on that mega range of yours! Also, could use the pro tips, since I’m a total newbie at this.

      Hope you read this.


  • Ron

    Hey Matt I’m in Alberta and just did some 300 grain rounds up yesterday and saw 2640 FPS with H1000 and 85 Grains.

  • Matt

    Thanks Ron, much appreciated. Did you experience any bolt lift issues? What COAL did you have them sitting at & lastly how was the accuracy?

    Thanks again –

  • Ron

    Matt where are you in Alberta? Are you on gun nutz?

  • Matt

    Hey Ron, no I am not on that site and actually I am not located in Alberta. I am in the Western North Carolina area. Sadly I dont have much land here, not that I can shoot on. I rely on a small farm nearby but I only have 100yards max at that location. Looking for places nearby where I can reach out. Contemplating very seriously at starting a store/range in this area or one a little further up North. Thanks-

  • Ron

    Accuracy was 1/2 MOA at 330 yards have you done any testing yet?

  • Matt

    Ron, no testing as of yet. Our of 40 rounds of new Hornady brass I pulled all others and stuck with 20 @ 88.0g with 300g SMKs @ 3.680 COAL. These will be my sighters. I am expecting 21 rounds of once fired LAPUA brass tomorrow. I hope to make up my other rounds to 92.0g. Once I have these I will need to make a concerted effort to get out & test. The location I shoot isnt my own and to get 100yards we shoot off his deck. Because of this finding time that isn’t intrusive is difficult.

  • Paul

    Hello folks! The name is Paul.Just picked up a 110 BA in .338.Haven’t fired yet as I just got the $$ put together to scope it with a Nightforce 5.5x22x50.Haven’t owned a scoped gun in 25 yeras.The rage then was a Leupold 3×9!! 1.5 inches high at a 100 yards and that was the end of it.Been hunting with iron sights ever sence with a BAR in .300 mag.I’m a little perplexed with this all.Questions are: where to zero this scope? I plan on shooting 300 gr.BTHPs with this gun as they appear to be the most accurate based on internet research.I have plenty of black guns and such for work out to 300 yards.I don’t plan on wasting ammo for this beast at under 500 yards and ultimatley would like to aquire “head shot” accuracy at 1k yards.Any and all help would be very much appreciated!

  • Matt

    For those interested, I did some measurements to see what is the longest COAL i can have in my Savage 110ba in 338 LPM. Found the max length with a 300grain Sierra Match King touching the rifling at exactly 3.731″ long. Performed 4 measurements and amazingly came out the same each time. The standard COAL for a 338 LPM is calling for 3.600. While certainly every rifle will have some variance this at least gives some idea of how much play in length for working up loads. I have seated mine with a COAL at 3.680 and anxious to get out and give them a try.

  • HANK

    I currently load SMK 250’s in my brass. It’s all the rifle has ever had put in it. I never had the money for factory ammo – always handloaded. I had borrowed some .338 lapua brass from a friend who shoots his 98B on a regular basis. He is also the reason I got into the .338LM game. My chamber measures out to 3.741 with the 250 in it. Just touching the lands. I back it up with the H1000 powder with a 93.6gr load and federal magnum match primers(2844ish fps). I am not crimping the brass(not sure why you would if the round doesnt have the rings in them). So far accuracy has been stellar. Basically hole on hole performance at 300yds and less. I just mounted a new scope and we are headed to a longer range this weekend(1000yds). I havent gotten my hands on any 300gr SMK’s. But will try some when I get the chance and my own brass.

  • Barry

    I have a 110BA 338 LM, Leupold Mk 4 ER/T FFP TMR reticle.
    I have not shot any groups yet, still breaking the barrel in with minimum RL25 250 gr hand loads.
    A couple of comments. Started out with RCBS dies but they scratched the heck out of the neck. I bought Forster ultra seater die set, have them for other rifles. Bullet seat stem will not fit the long 300 gr bullet nose, sent examples off the Forster to get custom stems made. The nice lady told me the new one might be all I need. No telling how long my dies sat on Midway’s shelf. The Sinclair bore guide OD had to be turned down to fit the action Must have been made to fit the Remignton.
    Lapua brass uses the RCBS #14 shell holder. Hornady brass uses the #37 as stated on the RCBS die box.
    Using Lapua brass. I have H1000, VV165, RL 25 and RL 22 on hand to try.
    I have 300 gr Sierra and 300Gr Berger to try. Have Fedral 215 mag primers.
    Hopefully Hornady will get the 285 gr bullet out soon as a component.
    I have a box of the 285 factory load to shoot.
    RL 25 seems to be a dirty powder.
    Weather and my schedule are not cooperating hear in Oregon.
    I have a 100 yd range at the house and belong to a range with a 200 yd line. I will have to hit the clear cuts or go East to find a range that will let me streach it out.
    I have enjoyed the blog, good comments and info. I appreciate the lack of backbitting BS.
    As soon as I have some results I will Post.

  • We just loaded 58 – 300 gr rounds consisting of:
    Lapua cases once fired in the 110BA so neck sizing only
    Berger 300 gr Hybrid bullets
    Vihtavouri N170 79.4 gr weighed by RCBS ChargeMaster Combo-Scale and Dispenser
    Hand Primed with Sinclair Stainless priming tool using Federal 215 primers
    Bullets were seated using Redding Ultramag 7000 press and a Redding Competition Seating Die.

    I know this is a light starting load and the next batch will be increased. I want to check the entire load/velocity range to see what works best in my particular rifle. We will use our CED chrono to check velocities of the load. Plus this method of testing will give me a lot more time at the range which i enjoy.
    Schedule permitting, will will be at the range on the 16th of this month

  • Matt

    Barry – I myself just made it out to the range the 1st time yesterday and found I got caught with periodic sear engagement that I had read about happening to others. Seems the factory setting is so light on the trigger and the depression the the accurelease is so sensative quite a few times it engaged the sear and prohibited the pin from hitting the primer. Reading thru the manual this is apparently normal. I dialed up the pressure on the trigger and ran a bunch of brass with pimers only thru (in the basement, was my only option) and they struck perfect each time. Just wondering how many other folks here saw the same on their 110BA from factory.

    I use the RCBS dies and Lee Factory Crimp die w/ SMK 300s. I did find I had to do a bunch of trial and error on the FL sizer die so I didnt crush the case bottleneck. I ruined about 5 Hornady cases (at least they were Lapua stamps) Once I got that adjustment right the dies have been fine for me.

    One thing I have learned, as I started off with two boxes of new Hornady brass…. TOSSEM. Its a hard reality those with this rifle face as stuck brass/sticky bolt lift even at a lower 88g charge of H1000 is still a problem. I put thru 20 rounds of H1000 @ 88g as my sighters and the last 5% of bolt lift was a little tight. Swiched over to the rest of the loads, in .5g increments, all the way to 92.0g of H1000 and perfect bolt lift and release. I sat there amazed and acknowledged what I read in postings to be 100% true. Lapua stamped brass is the way to go.

  • Barry

    Put one break in round down range before the game. By the third time through with Barnes copper remover doesn’t showing much if any blue so the barrel is getting better.
    I havn’t seen the trigger problem. Mine was set at 2.5 lbs from the factory.
    I have 100 Lapua cases and plan on more. I,ve heard of brass problems with Hornady.
    I’ll watch the H1000 loads when I start working them up.
    Thanks for the load info. Looking forward to seeing some result data.

  • Matt,
    I had the sear engagement problem and after Savage replace the trigger assembly 3 times, I had a SSS Competition trigger installed and have not had the problem since. My trigger is set to 2 lbs.

  • Matt

    Thanks John . I was actually thinking of you and your postings on that as it was happening to me yesterday at the range. I was not a fan of that accuerelease but went with the Savage anyway because of everything else and cost. The two main things I have read, Apparently in their manual they even state that is a normal ocurrance if the release is not pulled 100% centered. Even if its touched off to the side, which to me is far too finiky. The second from what I have read, simple solution, is to turn up the trigger weight which is what I did. I dont have a measuring device for the trigger pull but if you looked at it wrong it would release. Which I initially loved but after the safety engaging after the 1st shot I wasnt happy with that. Back and forth, oiling the trigger too during my last 9 rounds, each one went off wihtout a hitch. While I broke it down to clean it today, I removed the stock/guard and still found it difficult to get that little tool in there to change I still clockwised it up more. I then took 6 primed, empty Hornady brass (hey I found a use for it, LoL) and fired 2 before reassembling the stock. Put it together and fired the other 4 one after the other with no problems. I wont feel 100% about it until I get back out. I only have about a dozen projectiles I can put together with my twice fired Lapua brass, I really want to get out to redeem. The other part I didnt realize is just how sensitive that accurelease is and need to be more mindful to ensure its 100% pulled back. While I know this falls in the realm of ‘ proper technique ‘ I get hole touching groups with my other rifles. While my ‘ form ‘ may not be 100% textbook my results are better than most. I am not a big fan of having a device as a mediator trying to force perfect form. I think this is one thing the accutrigger does and I am not a big fan of. The book even states the slightes off side or angled release will block the sear. To me this is far too sensitive. Just curious, did you replace the trigger yourself? I am fine with a heavier pull as long as its reliable. Savage is not accepting emails and getting to speak to someone is nearly impossible. Just wondering if I should still call them or wait for my next outing…

  • Matt,

    You should try going back through your dealer or ask the dealer who their Savage Rep is and contact and contact the Rep.

    I didn’t want to flirt with the warranty by tampering with the trigger and sear so I had Jason at Bolsa Gunsmithing in Westminster CA. who sold me the rifle first take a look at the trigger to validate that it wasn’t me that was the problem. Bolsa made some adjustments which they thought had cleared the problem. Back to the range and it failed after one shot. I took it back to Bolsa and they contacted Savage again who said that some bad trigger assemblies had been shipped and to return the rifle and they would replace the bad assembly. We got the rifle back with the new assembly, took it to the range and had the same problem after firing 3 rounds. I took it back to Bolsa again and they had Savage just ship another assembly which also turned out to be faulty and that is when Bolsa recommended the SSS Competition trigger which has worked flawlessly through 120 rounds of HSM 300 gr factory ammo.

    Jason has fine tuned all of my rifles and pistols with trigger jobs including adding muzzle brakes to the heavier calibers and I trust their work completely.

    The rifle is approaching being broken in and it is a joy to shoot. On a trip to the range, I shoot and average of 60 rounds with a 5 minute range break between every 20 rounds so I am firing with a very hot barrel without any change in groupings.

  • Matt

    John – Thanks for the extended response, its really appreciated. I was able to get ahold of a Savage tech rep while on lunch break today and explained the situation. Seems they have been set at the factory in the 12-14oz range for the trigger and although I do not have a measuring device I would believe it. You look at my trigger the wrong way and it went off. While I initially loved it, not so much if its at the sake of reliability. They stated they have been getting a lot of reports ‘ after the 1st shot ‘ kind of thing and seems (wasnt aware of this till yesterday re-reading the manual) that when its set low even a strong closure of the bolt will trigger the internal safety and even in the book states to raise and lower the bolt. Rewatching the vids from that day I am overly guilty of slamming the bolt into position which really I didnt need to as it was very smooth. So I can see when it set in hair mode low doing that will indeed prematurely release the sear. I ended up turning it up a little but I couldnt access it as well and after speaking with them I really need to remove THE ENTIRE THING from the stock in order to easily access the adjustment. I may even turn it up a little more to be on the safe side. Looking back at it now, I now know why my last 9 rounds went off without a hitch. I was single loading them slowly and closing the bolt real slow. When home, before cleaning I took another 6 cases – pimed only, and sure enough each one no issue. Again there I was slowly closing the bolt every time. I am usually smarter at the time to change methods but it really didnt strike me at the time but looking back on the vids, sure enough. EVERY time I slammed the bolt the next time I pulled the trigger, NADDA. After this critiquing and speaking with the Savage rep I am 99% confident turning up the trigger or even leaving it where it is but not slamming the bolt will resolve the issue. However that last 1% is me keeing the trigger info you provided just in case. If I see it still an issue after maybe a little more trigger tweak then its a new trigger for sure and I will be done with the accuTrigger. Thanks again for that info!

  • Matt,

    Maybe it is just me but for what I paid for the 110 BA, I thought that I should be able to close the bolt in any way, either strong or slow and easy. With the SSS competition trigger, I can do that. It just doesn’t seem right that a weapon sold under a company’s LE (Law Enforcement) banner should be treated with kid gloves. When we experienced the problem, it didn’t make any difference how you closed the bolt, it would lock up.

    On my Sako TRG-42, I also can close the bolt strongly and have not had a problem after 200 HSM 250 gr factory rounds.

    Keep us posted

  • Matt

    John – I couldn’t agree with you more. I have used other bolt guns that got some serious travel on the bolt closure, quite a clean trigger, and no issue. I I do understand the design and movement as a result of a slight jarring.

    Regarding the LE I think for those purposes the trigger would have to be set pretty high else there is some serious liability, not from accidental discharge, but rather from a non-fire situation.

    The company stated they are looking at increasing the setting before it ships to cut down on the number of reports of just what I saw. Guess for it to even state in the manual is a note shows the trigger is set on the hairy edge of too light/not reliable. But like you said, should be able to take it. Guess it will end up taking it but not with a hairline trigger setting. Not the end of the world to me. I tried to crank up the trigger while it was still in the main stock and it was very difficult for my big paws to get a grasp on the yellow adjustment tool. Another 1/2″ long and it woudn’t need to be removed. While I did make an adjustment and it was 100% with primed empty cases I am still thinking of breaking it completely down and adjusting higher even before my next outing.

  • HANK

    Whats the deal with everyone bashing on the hornady brass?(I didn’t know of any problems) The only reason I ask is I have reloaded mine twice so far(neck sized, RCBS neck dies) and haven’t had any issues with sticky bolts or well, any issues. I am only shooting 250 SMK’S though. Maybe the 300’s have an issue with the brass? I still haven’t gotten any 300’s yet. I did get to the range though. We went to the 600(1000 was being occupied by some off duty LEO’S) Still had a good time – we were on paper with a just shy of 2″ group that was repeatable. I have around 200 rnds through the rifle – I think it’s settled in now – groups decently, I think the only issues with the accuracy are me. ANyone else have any at distance range reports yet?

  • Matt

    Hank, I personally went with two new boxes hopeful what I was reading about Lapua brass was all brand loyalty/hype. I personally have used other brass in other chamberings including Lapua brand in 308Winchester and actually was not impressed at all compared to a Nosler custom brass offering. Even in this rifle I was giving the benefit of the doubt with the 110BA.

    What I found last weekend was without a doubt exactly what others were reporting. Using 300g SMKs – Now I started mine off, at least what I felt, was a lower charge and was in the middle of the range of the books. At 88.0g of H1000 and new Hornady brass the last 5% of the bolt was very stiff. I was able to extract however with no issues, but again bolt was very stiff at the upper end. I then proceeded to go up in 1/2grain increments all the way to 92.0 using once fired Lapua stamped brass. NO bolt stiffness at all. As soon as I fired the 1st set of 3 Lapua branded brass after the Hornady, no issue. Went back to the 88.0g (lower charge) sighters and sure enough – bolt stiffness. It was absolute. The metallurgical composition of the Lapua brass webbing and structure is significantly harder to accept the higher spike in pressure resulting from the 338LPM. Historically this is actually why the first prototypes failed for this chambering if you research the history of the 338LPM. Until Lapua came into play with their ‘ solution ‘ to the soft brass issue, despite annealing and other mixes from other companies. Dont get me wrong, I am actually NOT a fan of the Lapua stamp due to their overpriced tags. But in this particular application, the 338LPM, in the higher load, higher pressure range it really is true that the Lapua stamped brass is noticeably stronger. I have 40 or just under Hornady Brass with just under 1/2 of them once fired. The others are brand new and unprimed. While I may keep a handful for priming & testing purposes I wont be using them with my 92.0g 300smk loads.
    I haven’t decided yet but if anyone is interested I am probably going to sell the rest of the Hornady stamped brass as they are just paperweights to me now. Will probably sell them for $40.00 (about 1.00 each) which will be a mix of new and once fired plus shipping. (I also don’t believe in the price gouging that many resell even once fired brass for).

  • HANK

    I have used both lapua(more than once fired) and hornandy – (new and now once fired and neck sized). I haven’t noticed any binding or extraction issues with either. But again, 250gr matchkings. I get paid on the 15th and will grab up some 300’s to see if that causes any issues. Heavier projectile even with less powder charge than the 250 might cause the issue(more pressure build up?). Not sure. Is this the same issue with any other brand bullet(nosler hornady) other than sierra? I will see where I run into this issue on my own, but wonder if there is any correlations with different bullet/powder charge combos.

  • Matt

    Ok, here is a question to those with the 110BA & chambered in 338Lapua Mag…. Would you shoot it off the hood of your vehicle?

    This coming weekend I am going to another location to shoot, one with high grass so I wont have the option of going prone. Its out in the field and nothing around to stabilize on… I have shot 308 and smaller off the hood of my 2008 JK Jeep with a blanked and was just fine. I am concerned of doing so for 2 reasons with the 110BA. First is weight, much more weight and concerned about denting the hood although this could be mitigated by some blankets I would think.

    The second and actually main concern is concussion from the blast. Don’t want to damage the windshield or even headlamps although the lamps are lower and not directly in-line with the expelling gasses..

    This is my only option I can think of as I dont have any portable stand/tables yet. Would like to hear from anyone that has shot off their vehicle will their LPM and did you encounter any issues?


  • Ron

    What are your primers looking like I was getting slight cratering at 88g with Lapua brass and H1000 and 300 SMK

  • HANK

    What primers are you using? (assuming you are handloading)

  • Ron

    CCI 250’s

  • Matt

    Just wanted to update folks. Just got back from the an outing today. 92.0g of H-1000 from the Lapua brass is producing a velocity of 2,766fps. Quite nice, I think, for 300g SMKs. Found out, not intentionally, that a 300g Matchking will enter and pass thru a 11-12″ (eyeball, didn’t have a measure) red oak tree at 100yards. We had our cardboard targets against the tree, was surprised to see pass thru shots for most of the rounds. I imagine the internal damage was severe as a few rounds that were about 3 inches from the edge completely blew out the side.
    Wanted to update on the trigger issue, 100% reliable after the last range outing of increasing the trigger weight slightly. No issues since. I am glad to report back its not a problem trigger just adjusted too light from factory.

  • Ron

    Matt what primers we’re you using? Did you have any cratering of your primers? Or any bolt lift issues?

  • Matt, glad to hear the good news especially that your trigger is now working without any problems. Wish my problem had the same cause. I am not surprised at the damage the rounds did to the tree since we were punching holes through 1/4 inch steel at 100 yards. What brand of chrono are you using and what size of groups did you get with the H-1000 load? My CED Chrono bit the dust so we have a Competition Electronics Pro Chrono unit on order and hope to get it to the range around the first of March for testing the reloads we have been creating.

  • Matt

    Ron – I am using Federal 215 Large Rifle Magnum Primers. I wanted to use the Gold Match variant but could not find there anywhere at the time I started my load workups. No issues with cratering or pressure signs on the primers. Since I switched to the L6″apua brass I have had no bolt lift issues except 2 rounds on my last outing. The Lapua brass I bought was ‘ supposed ‘ to be once fired but I could tell there was a handful that had to be loaded at least 3 times before I ever touched them. So I am using brass that has been loaded anywhere between 4 – 7times. When I can afford I will be buying a box of new Lapua stamped brass. The Hornady has taken a back burner as paperweights. I may offload them cheap.

    The lift stiffness I experienced was only the last 1/4 to 3/16″ and not a big deal since it was only a few brass. I would guess this is on a few pieces of brass that is starting to expand greater than the rest of the Lapua lot so far. I know it wasn’t an overpressure issue as these happened when I was doing my Chronograph data capture and one of the two ‘ doubled ‘ the data on the chrono, the second was a hair lower. The fact it was so constant it repeated the last reading exactly which I was ecstatic to see my loads are that close together. Others were within 12fps or less apart which I was very pleased with. The one before it extracted perfect, smooth lift, the next one was a little tight at the very end. Being the velocity measured the same I am 100% confident in saying it was that particular case getting weaker.

    John – Thanks, yeah I too am VERY glad the change in heavier trigger corrected. I was thinking the heavier was going to suk but once I got out there I couldnt tell much of any difference so I put it up just enough. Regarding your choice of Chrono- Well done. I have the Competition Electronics Pro Chrono. I had the same model about 10 years until it finally died (due to an accidental drop during moving residences). I replaced it with the identical model. You will be very happy with it I am sure, I have been.

    Regarding grouping, bear in mind I was doing this off the back bed of a small pickup truck- I got 3 shot groups touching hole on hole. The first two overlapped each other with about 3/16″ center to center. The next one was right next to it and 1/4″ apart. No more than 1/2″ from the 1st shot to the 3rd shot in distance c2c. I zereod my turrets & My final single round I fired once turrets were zereod so I know I didnt accidentally move it – it contacted about 1/8″ below perfect center of a 1″ greay square, my spotter yelling out ‘ we have a winner ‘. It was in the square and would be considered ‘ center ‘ hit but I found myself beating my self up splitting hairs if it wasnt PERFECTLY centered within the square, its that consistent.

    Even on my last 3 shots thru the chrono, when I was looking both thru the scope & trying to watch the chrono so I didnt shoot it (that would have sukd). I still managed to be 1.5″ apart in a small triangle. This was a sloppy shoot thru the chrono worried about the chrono and not my target. Yet it found itself just outside the center square which I smiled as I pulled open the bolt to let it cool. One other side note, the barrel was quite warm doing all this shooting, not mirage thru the scope hot, but just before.

    One final note, I AM using a Lee Factory Crimp die and placing a slight crimp on all the rounds. Many will state no no no, not needed, no crimp groove, etc. but I do this on ALL my rounds loaded, especially rifle. This also is what I contribute to the very low deviating velocity data as the start pressure is highly consistent. I am also using a Hornady Load Master digital dispenser which this is also telling me that the scale is VERY accurate and repeatable. Hope this helps – Thanks,

  • Matt,
    You missed your calling and you should be writing books about precision shooting. Your Post are always a joy to read.

    Congrats on the success you had with holes touching. I hope I can do as well.

    To prep for using the new Chrono, we loaded up 107 rounds with Lapua Brass (once fired in my 110 BA), Berger 300 gr Hybrids, 79.4 gr of Vihtavuori N170 and Federal 215 primers. Bullet seating was done using a competition die with a COAL of 3.865 in.

    If you have used and like the 300 gr Berger Hybrids , they are very hard to find. Berger stated that the next run on the 300 gr will be in about two months. I bought the last 250 from my dealer today.

  • Matt

    Hey John – Much appreciated for the kind comments. I am, and have been for several years, ever so wanting to start my own business. In a perfect world it would be a gun shop w/ reloading section and a long distance range. Realistically and more doable to me would be a B&B/Lodge that caters to extreme long distance shooting. Having a 1000yard line and lease land to extend to the ever so elite – 1 mile club. To be able to offer folks, for a reasonable price, a nice B&B experience for shooters that would have full access to range facilities as long as they are a guest at the ‘ Lodge ‘ is my dream.
    You will like the pro-chrono I would just treat it carefully – meaning try not to drop/sharply jar it. While I use Berger VLD match rounds in my 308win I have used only 300g SMKs in the Lapua and feel I have found a great round. Part of me wants to play with other projectiles but I will probably stick to the SMKs. They have been pinpoint accurate in my 7mm Remington Mag and seem to be the same out of this Lapua Mag. My rounds are sitting at a COAL of 3.680 if I forgot to mention. Wanted to post a few significant values from my Ballistics calc from the data derived from Saturday’s results. I think quite impressive and while at the upper end of the charge/pushing a 300g projectile its worth reduced life in the brass. Regarding the poor red oak tree, based on the below calculations the round impacted with almost 4,700ft/lbs of energy. Most pasted thru several yawed within creating a hollow cavity. Was quite amazing.

    The Sierra Matchking 300g:

    Muzzle Velocity/Energy – 2766fps/5096ft/lbs
    100yd Velocity/Energy – 2653fps/4688ft/lbs
    1mile/1760yards Velocity/Energy – 1119fpt/834ft/lbs

  • kyle

    any good ballistic charts out their for beyond 1000 yards???

  • Matt, after reading your last post, I went to my local supplier to buy some 300g SMKs and they were sold out. Buying direct from them is always less expensive than buying over the web so we will wait until they get the next shipment.

    We will use Lapua once fired brass with our standard load of 79.4 gr of Vihtavuari N170 and Federal 215 primers to load 10 rounds and then switch to 85 gr of Retumbo for 10 rounds to get a comparison.

    CORRECTION to my Feb 22 post. The COAL should read 3.685 instead of 3.865.

    Anyone have experience with Meplat trimmers?
    we are researching 2, the Hoover Meplat trimmer/bullet tipping die for $375.00 and the MCR Meplat Uniformer for $75.00. I am pretty sure that we will go with the MCR unit unless someone has a better suggestion


    in the quest to “get all of the help I can find to get more accuracy”, I did some research on the pros and cons of Meplat Trimming and Bullet Pointing. Some of the other shooting blogs had pros and cons that stated the only time Meplat trimming made a difference was from 500-600 yards and further. Any distance under that, the Neplat trimming would not make a difference. Since the 338 LM is a round that shoots out past those distances, I though it would be worth it. We settled on the MCR Meplat Uniforming Tool made by Montour Country Rifles including the power adapter. I had the opportunity to speak direct with Kevin at MC Rifles and following that conversation, I started the order process. I will post a review after we receive the unit and run some Berger Hybrid 300 gr. 338LMs through the process.

  • Matt

    Kyle – Here are two of a handful of tools I use. This one is an Excel Spreadsheet. Hopefully you have Excel. These are already set for my 300g Lapua load with my values (elevation, fps, etc) – adjust as you require. I will leave this up for a while – anyone is welcome to it –

    Hope this helps – Matt

  • Matt

    Hey John – Do keep us posted on your findings regarding the trimming. I considered it with the SMKs but I do not, currently, have anywhere to get the distance that is needed to even see a difference. That statement of 500-600 yards + is accurate from what I understand. Much below that I dont believe you will find measurable differences that would justify the time & expense. As always, anxious to hear about the data. Thanks –

  • HANK

    Matt, What distance were you shooting at on your feb 21st post to get those groupings?

  • Matt,

    I saw the Excel files that you posted for Kyle. I am and old Esxcel user and last month, I created a file to record the difference in average velocities between Vihtavuori and Retumbo using Berger 250 and 300 gr bullets. Here is the dropbox link to the file. If you think I have left something out, please let me know.


  • Matt

    Hank – The distance was 100yards and against a 12″ Oak tree that will not make it due to lead poisoning….

    Thanks John, I will take a look at that. Always welcome additional tools in the box.

  • pete

    savage rifles have never been known for sleek lines or style but the darn things shoot!

  • beirman

    question to any body with a savage 110 ba ? I have a 5.5x22x56 nightforce with 100 moa of elevation savage claims to have a 20moa. taper to the rail according to savage . my gun at 100yd is 1 moa above optical centerwitch leaves me with 49 usable moa. 51moa nonusable, according to night force with a 20 moa taper i should be around 30moa. with 70moa usable.At 1000yd iam at 23moa above my 100yd zero with 26 moa. left for my mile shot. so question being has anybody checked to see if they have the same issue?

  • Matt

    Beirman – Generally speaking when a scope, of any cost, is rated given a particular MOA often times there can be a slight variant in production runs even of the same model scope, it may have slightly more but rarely less. If a manufacturer states 100MOA of elevation, assuming you are centered perfectly half way in-between (which nearly never happens) then you have 50moa of upper & 50moa of lower adjustment. This does not mean 100moa of upper adjustment. So in a scope that has 100moa of elevation adjustment, if you are dead center to start for simplicity sake, and you are sitting atop a 20moa base you will have approximately 70moa of drop adjustment. That should get you out pretty far even if you are at a 100yd zero which in 338LPM for long distance runs you wouldn’t be zeroed at 100. More than likely you will be in the 400-500yard zero range for extreme distance and a 500yard zero with a 70moa elevation adjustment should get you to that magic mile.

  • beirman

    Matt- I am pretty sure we are on the same page about the scope. Problem is that with the supposed 20moa. Taper on the savage rail I am at optical center as opposed to having that use of 70moa drop. So is savage putting the taper to acheive opticsl center or do I have something wrong? Because in my eyes I should be 20moa below my optical center .

  • Brian L

    While everyone is speaking about scopes, has anyone used or bought the VORTEX RAZOR HD 5-20×50? I am generally a Nightforce user, but maybe I thought to try something different. Any comments?

  • Matt

    beirman – Remembering back and looking at photos (without puller her out) the base on mine where the scope is mounted is on the elevated portion & level. That ~70moa should be center line and below of the scope. Its center line and above if you are dialing in negative elevation in order to shoot center on your scope on a target that is below your ZERO. When you dial the scope for a change in POI past ZERO that is essentially bringing the crosshairs closer to the barrel. The height of rings you have will have an effect on this as well.
    Unless you are mounting the scope on the portion of the rail that is forward of the recess for the bell housing you should automatically be at a 20moa greater elevation to start. I don’t see any taper or angle in my mount and is quite parallel to the barrel. Throw a level on it and its perfectly level along with the barrel (did that when I got it and mounted the rail initially)
    I would say, without seeing any pics front and side profile of what you are looking at, that hopefully you can correct by remounting the rail and not have one that at is incorrectly machined. I have seen in some forums some folks with problems on their rails out of the box. What I read however was referring to windage and not elevation problems tho. If you can take some high-res focused pics and link to it that would be great.

  • Matt

    Brian L- I have not personally but looked at the Vortex line when buying mine. Sitting on top of my 110BA in 338LMP is the new generation Hawke Sidewinder 30 Tactical. Now many will look at that and frown. I did some serious extensive research and went with a money back guarantee after speaking to many of the sales and service techs regarding the Hawke. Mainly since these seemed geared towards spring air rifles which according to the engineers place a completely different harmonic and stress on the scope vs even high powered center-fire rifles I was skeptical.
    I decided to give it a try with the 6.5-20x model, 1/2MOA mil-dot and I cant say enough good about this scope. Large range of adjustment, locking turrets, even illumination which I didn’t really care about but has come in handy during dark backgrounds, has been repeatable 100 percent and has never lost zero. The image is very clean and the zoom is smooth. Side adjust is crisp too. Just a note to those, if like me, without endless funds but was able to swing into the Lapua market. I spent just under 500 bucks for the scope and Burris Extreme mounts. It has been great. Can provide pics/links if anyone is interested although I would guess everyone here already has their glass setup.

  • HANK

    Just a scan of my target at 600yds and a quick shot of my rifle. I don’t know if I am going to mess with the 300Gr rounds, I think if I can just get myself to settle into my prone position a bit more I can probably tighten up more. I want to get a monopod, amazing difference it makes on my buddy’s bravo.

  • Matt

    Very Nice Hank – Were you adjusting your scope for elevation to zero in at 600 or was this keeping the scope settings the same? While you definitely have a good round there, the 1:9 Twist begs for the 300g length. Have you chrono’d your rounds and performed any drop chart calcs? Thanks for sharing.

  • Matt

    Hank – hit send too fast on that last one. Wanted to ask – What mono pod are you going to put on the 110BA and are you attaching a rail first with the two threaded inserts or is what your getting made for those mountings directly? Thanks –

  • HANK

    Matt, I was dialing in. If you look in the bullet holes you can see my shot count. I can almost cloverleaf the hole in the paper with the barret at 600 yards. I contribute most of it to the lack of my body adding to the equasion. The monopod on the 98B makes it almost a shooting machine. I haven’t chrono’d any of this last lot, but a majority of what I did before was averaging 2834 fps and a little higher depending on lot. Most of my drops are being pulled from a calculator I downloaded on my phone called shooter. Works very well. After calling magpul, they pointed me toward the accushot monopod, I think it was the 12 or the 13 , either way still have to put the rail on using the two screws and mounting the monopod at that angle the PRS2 has. Not fun.

  • Brian L

    Does anyone else have any experience with the Vortex Razor?

  • Matt

    HANK- Well done, nice shooting there. I didn’t realize until reading the last post that you are behind a Barrette and not a Savage 110BA. Do you have a 110BA?

  • HANK

    Matt, The pics I put up are from my 110BA(the one pic is of my 110BA rifle, the other is a picture of my shot group at 600 yards with the 110ba). My friend has the 98b. I like using it for reference to compare the savage to.

  • HANK

    Maybe I should have said — Matt, I was dialing in. If you look in the bullet holes you can see my shot count.

    “”That shot group was with my savage 110ba – but “”

    I can almost cloverleaf the hole in the paper with the barret at 600 yards. I contribute most of it to the lack of my body adding to the equasion. The monopod on the 98B makes it almost a shooting machine. I haven’t chrono’d any of this last lot, but a majority of what I did before was averaging 2834 fps and a little higher depending on lot. Most of my drops are being pulled from a calculator I downloaded on my phone called shooter. Works very well. After calling magpul, they pointed me toward the accushot monopod, I think it was the 12 or the 13 , either way still have to put the rail on using the two screws and mounting the monopod at that angle the PRS2 has. Not fun.

  • Matt

    Thanks Hank for the clarification. Nice to see the 110BA has the accuracy. Regarding the monopod, I have never done that but I am teetering towards putting on on my 110BA. Are you buying a precut/specific rail or just a universal rail that has a hole and slot that will work? I am considering doing the rail and pod but I often place my hand right under the and lock into my shoulder and by putting a pod in there I wont be able to do that anymore. Not sure if I will like that or not. I have always felt, no offense intended to anyone – this is merely my opinion, that true shooting is only resting on a bag or bipod on the front end.

    When locking into a shooting rest, pods, etc. all there seems to me is technical skill in dealing with drops & windage as the human element it almost all taken out. Its for this reason I lean towards the purist thoughts and havent had any kind of rear rest. But like anything else, times change and I may actually try that for the first time ever… Still unsure.

  • Jason

    Hi everyone; I have a 110 ba on lay away and should have it by the end of the month. I already have the scope (Bushnell Elite 6500 Tactical 4.5-30X50) and i need to know what height the rings need to be in order to clear the 50mm objective lens. I want to go with weaver tactical rings. If anyone has any info/personal experience with lapped scope rings I would also like to hear about them. I already know what the procedure is and what it is supposed to do; I am just curious about pros/cons if any. Thanks.

  • Matt

    Jason – Welcome & congrats on the pending acquisition. I have a Hawke Sidewinder Tactical 30 on mine sitting on top of medium height Burris Tactical rings. – – These fit the scope I bought perfectly without any lapping. They are also VERY heavy duty and secure. There is just enough room to get another 6mms of bell housing in (3mm closer to the rifle). At this point it would be very close once you put on a butler creek flip open cap, if thats your preference. Low rings will be a no-go. Mediums, at least with the ones I bought would JUST fit very close and highs of course would give a ton of room to pitch a tent and camp under. Hope this helps –

  • HANK

    Even if you get a monopod, when you put it on it acts like a additional handle to hold when you put the stock up into your arm. In that aspect it may aid your position. I know I use my bipod legs alot when I am carrying the rifle or looking for a handhold. I understand the human error in the shooting of the rifle. I just find that if you can purchase somthing that helps with your accuracy, Why not? Nothing says you have to use it for every trip out. Either way – depending on your setup wants, The guys at accushot reccomended the bt12 or bt13 depending on needs.

    They also have the rails you will need to mount onto the prs2 in hand.

  • Matt

    Thanks Hank for the info. Not sure if I am going to go the route of that accessory but will keep that info on hand if I do.

    Much appreciated –

  • jay

    I have a Savage 110 BA in .338 Lapua. I have been having problems with mine ejecting spent rounds from the chamber. It acts as if they are over pressuring, but since I’m shooting factory ammo I don’t believe that’s the case. Just wondering if anyone else was having the same issue.

  • Matt

    Jay – What headstamp is the brass from the factory loads? If they are hot loads and its Hornady brass that would be the culprit. Changeover to Laupua stamped brass and verify that your lift issues are gone. This will give you an idea if you have a problem with your chamber or its the ammo.
    I have been reloading and found that the Lapua stamped brass is the only way to go when pushing the Lapua Mag to its true potential. At least using 300g rounds at 2,766fps Lapua stamped brass is the only option.

    Hope this helps – Matt

  • Brian L

    So I have to make this big decission as to what scope I place on my 110BA. I have a NF 12-42 x 56 NXS on my .308 F Class rifle, so I can either move that to my 110BA OR I was thinking of the Vortex Razor. Any thoughts? My plans are to shoot out to 1000yds.

  • jay

    I’ve got a Nightforce NXS 5.5-22X56 on mine with the NPR2 reticle. I love it, there are pricier scopes out there but I don’t see any reason to spend more. If you order from SportOptic its free shipping and no sales tax also, gotta love that kind of deal. I’m giving serious thought to putting NF on all my other long distance rifles now.

  • jay

    The brass is stamped Hornady. From what I’ve compared to my chrony results the loads aren’t loaded hot at all, actually quite tame. I’ve talked to a few other people that have been having the same problem with Hornady ammo in other calibers as well. A friend of mine bought a Christensen Arms in .300 Ultra Mag and is having the same problem with his Hornady ammo. I just ordered a box of shells from Hunting Shack, I will definately update how those rounds do.

  • Matt

    Jay – Good luck, I am sure you are going to find the issue is with the Hornady brass. I have 2 boxes sitting as I thought I was doing a good thing and accepted paying 1.50 per for new brass in 338 LPM. I have never fired a factory load thru mine only hand loads. But what I did notice while working up on the Hornady that just past what I would consider 50-60% load workups the brass started sticking. Again my experience is only with 300g projectiles so running 250s may be very different within the same charges but it was very disappointing and now have a bunch of paperweights, some once fired and most new Hornady that in my application I cannot use.

    I don’t know who makes the brass for HSM other than its their own head stamp. When I used to have a 50BMG (sigh….) I bought a lot of HSM and it was great ammo. However I never reloaded so I cannot attest to the brass other than it fires once and ejected fine. Hope this helps –

  • Matt

    Regarding Optics (try not to boo me) – I have a Hawke SideWinder Tactical 30 on mine, the 6.5-20 1/2MildDot and it has been PHENOMINAL. Its designed for high powered spring air rifles and was skeptical to say the least at the claims of shockproof on all caliburs. After speaking to several tech/engineers as well as a no-bull rep I decided to go with it under a 10day return regardless. I could not be happier. The image is so crystal clear edge to edge and across all zoom levels I was estatic. Cant really comment on dusk/low light usage as thats not when I generally shoot the Lapua anyway.

    I am so glad I took the chance – scope and rings brought be to just under 500bucks. It has been rock solid, the recital is awesome and has been 100%repeatable. There are a lot of higher end scopes out there and also for exponentially the cost. There are however other options that wont break the bank that you look side by side thru and there is certainly a point of diminishing returns which is very disproportionate to the money spent. I have looked thru many a multi-thousand dollar optic. Compared to this one in normal daylight conditions I cannot see but the smallest of variances, some I liked slightly more most I actually didn’t. If I would go to a much higher power that would force me into a different market/category of cost. But this has been magnificent on my 338 LPM. So much I am considering replacing a nice Nikon on my CZ 308 Target Rifle. Regardless of optics… Shoot often & enjoy….

  • Brian L

    Matt thank you for the info. Since writing my comment I have been looking at less priced scopes. I’ve been looking at the Nikon line, but research has shown that the optics get fuzzy and they have chromatic aberrations. So I’m face with a choice of getting a scope, at long distances, that will have issues or spending the big buck and getting clear optics. They sure don’t make it easy.

  • Jay

    I WAS shooting Hornadyy’s new 285 grain loads. They actually shot really well, under 1″ at 300 yds during break in, cleaning between rounds. Going to start reloading once I get her broke in.

  • beirman

    to anybody going to try for the magic mile .I posted a question about wondering if the rail on the savage 110ba actually had 20m.o.a. taper to it ,I an dealing with savge’s engineering department on this problem if you have the time you should check your scope shoot at 100yrd, zero your scope remember where your zero is then check how many single clicks from top to bottom then from bottom to top then split the diff. that will put you at ocular center if your 100yrd zero is + or – a couple of m.o.a. you do not have 20m.o.a taper . there is a problem per savage they are working with me just don’t know if wide spread or isolated problem if you check please write back curious to know if any body is having the same problem. and to matt talked to N.F. about my 5.5x22x56nxs the had the scope checked they fixed a problem and when sent in the scope was almost at ocular center witch should not be with a 20 m.o.a. taper. and savage agree’s

  • Matt

    Brian L- I know what you mean. I have a nice Nikon Buckmaster 6-18 on my CZ chambered in 308winchester. Its the BDC and works quite well but for longer work the reticle is a little thick. It is a GREAT scope, again daylight conditions mostly, however I haven’t shot past 500yards so I cannot give a first hand account at long distance. Gazing at various objects look good at farther distance but I would say unless its a fine plex the cross hairs would obscure the target at great distance.

    I am very anxious to get my 110BA out to distances of 1000 yards & the Miracle Mile. I am actually doing some serious soul searching and considering in the upcoming years of opening a B&B with a 1 Mile Range facility out in the MidWest. This is more of a dream and may not come true but would be phenomenal to attract shooters from all around.

    I have not shot the Tactical 30 at extreme distance yet, other than looking thru the scope at major distances which looked very detailed & clear. Extreme distance is what I am pushing my 300grain SMKs to achieve with a muzzle velocity of 2,766fps. I am sure it is reducing the case life but I believe, that is significant velocity out of a 300g projectile down the 1:9 twist; Keep us posted –

  • Matt

    Jay – Nice to hear the accuracy. Those 285s intrigued me and I almost started my load workups with those but due to availability issues at the time I went with the SMK 300g. They have proved great in my 7mm Remington Mag and gave it a try int he Lapua. Glad I did. Regarding the Hornady brass, its disappointing but it seems with the heavier projectiles and higher velocity the case expansion is too significant. My first 40 shots were from Hornady brass and I thought I had a defective gun. Take a vernier caliper measurement before and after and the amount of expansion is unreal. Apparently the metallurgical composition of the case, specifically the webbing area, is very different in the Lapua stamps. Yet I still dont agree with 2.50 a pop for new Lapua stamp as you can buy 50BMG brass cheaper (and by a lot in once fired) yet there is more material that also requires sustaining higher pressure.

    I would love to see if Nosler Custom brass could come out with a strong offering as the Lapua but it seems, at this in this application, the Lapua stamped brass is the way I will have to go.

  • Jay

    I’m not a firm believer inthe expensive scope equals better scope theory. I’ve seen scopes priced over $5000 grand with no real significant improvement over a $300 dollar Tasco. If it works, it works regardless of price. I am also happy to report that the HSM ammo performs flawlessly in the Savage. Very disappointed with Hornady!

  • RemMax

    Hey Brian about your scope question the Nightforce NF 12x42x56 you are refering to is a decent BR scope but lacks the internal adjustment the Nightforce NXS series scopes have, If I recall correctly mine only has about 50moa total internal adjustment while the 5.5×22 NXS has 100MOA internal adjustment.
    I bought my Nightforce because everyone kept harping on how I needed one to go on my Ferret50 in .50BMG, What a waste of money any Nightforce is in my humble opinion!
    I have a Leupold VariXIII 6.5x20x50 MilDot mounted on my .50 that I wouldn’t trade for any off the Nightforces I have sat behind to date and thats been a few at various 1k matches, guys still sing the priase of the nightforce like no other scope out there can do what it does.
    My Leupold has 120MOA internal adjustment so when the NXS’s run out of adjustment trying to reach the 1 mile (1760 yards) point I am still not out of adjustment yet
    Also my Leupold cost me about $800 delivered from SWFA when I bought it a few years ago, at the same time NF scopes were selling for well over $1600 so in short for those like myself who collect gun and love high power long range shooting I can’t drop the Nightforce ransom for all my various 1000 yard rifles!
    I am looking into buying a 110BA now, but regardless of what .338 Lapua Mag I decide on I will be mounting another of the Leupold VariXIII 6.5x20x50 Mildot sopes with side focus and 30mm tubes.
    Of course this is just my opinion and I’m sure a lot of folks here will scream the NF praises again almost like they are paid to but then we all know NF is to cheap to pay anyone but themselves! (g)
    I ended up mounting the NF 12x42x56 I bought on my Rem Sendero .300 Ultra Mag and while it is a decent bench rest scope it is definetely lacking in internal adjustment needed for long range shooting from 100 to 1000 yards like the .338 Lapua Mag round is so well designed for.
    Just my opinion though, (for what it’s worth)

  • Matt, Brian & Jay
    The scope price vs capability topic is one I follow with great interest. After saving for what seems like a life time, I purchased a Savage 110 BA and mounted a Nightforce NXS 5.5-22×56 ($1632)and a Sako TRG-42, that we mounted a Leupold Mark 4 6.5-20X50 ERT/M1 ($1381) scope on. (both in 338 LM). To date we have put over 450 rounds through each rifle at distances out to 600 yds (Max at our local range) and have found both scopes to perform very well, edge to edge clarity is equal, definition at 600 yds is equal so to my “eye”. I can’t really tell the difference between scopes. I control both scopes with the Barrett BORS system so adjusting to 600 yards does not reach the extremes of either manufacturer’s published moa. Given my 600 yard max distance restriction, what other measurement criteria should I be looking at to really compare the two scopes??

    PS: Matt, will your B&B have parking spaces with hook ups for RV’s??

  • Jay

    While I’ve never owned a Leupold scope I know several mrksmen that have, all have switched to Nightforce. All 3 of my friends that have owned Leupolds have shot the reticles out if them. One was on a 300 wby mag, that went twice. Once on the first scope, once on the replacement. Both within 10 rounds. Also Leupolds factory tolerances for psrralax adjustment are 2 MOA. When you’re shooting 1000+ yds that is a substantial amount. While I speak highly of NF, I will let their contracts and records speak for themselves!

  • Paul

    Gotta good friend who’s an ex Seal.NOTHING less than Nightforce scopes held up in the field.Every other scope failed after 6 weeks in desert storm. Why would you scope such an awesome weapon with anything less than what it and you deserve.Step up people….or step away!

  • Matt

    Hey John – Considered the RV option but initially would set it up to be a 5-7 guest room large B&B that offers a dedicated cleaning area as well for the guests for their weapons. Could possibly expand the idea to include that.

    Essentially as long as you are a guest at the B&B/Lodge you have full access to the range facility. It would take a while to expand to a larger entity but would prefer to keep it on the smaller side at any one time such as 2 guests per room. Essentially having no more than 10 to 15 folks at the Inn/range at any given time. A more private experience that is without time schedule. Food, nice sleeping quarters, and a unique range facility.

    Many folks go on long trips for hunting expos, why not go for a long distance range outing? I think this would go well. Again this has been a thought for a while and trying to see what I can do to make it a reality.

  • Matt

    Like many other things, it takes several components for the complete package. Optics are not everything and will not make a poor shooter a marksman. I have gone shoulder to shoulder with folks running S&B & NF & Leopold scopes of very high dollar and produced tighter groups with two different rifles all with optics 500bucks and less. Glass is good and shouldn’t be overlooked however there are other things that comprise the entire package.

    Just because its a high dollar piece of gear I don’t believe it requires an equivalent cost scope. Again, there are many offerings there are less money and will get the same end result. I would be happy to put my foot forward and go toe-to-toe with others with optics 4-5times the cost. Good a good quality scope and spend the money of consumables to become proficient in its use. Regardless, shoot, shoot often & enjoy above all else.

  • Brian L

    Everyone, thank you for the responses. Point in fact I do like NF line of scopes, but i also do have a Leupold scope on another .308. Still has anyone had any experience with the Vortex Razor 5-20 x 50mm? Again, Thank you for the responses.

  • RemMax

    Hey Matt; That B&B Sounds like a neat idea but I was just wondering if you had looked into insurance for something like that?
    My Brother is a ammo vendor and went through hell trying to get insurance on his buisness and at that there was only 2 companies who would even talk to him about insuring any buisness related to the firearms industry.
    Also have you thought about gun storage?
    Again with regards to insurance I’m wondering if they would write a policy if you planned on letting guest store there own guns in there own rooms.
    After all we all know how the antis look at gun owners and for them the thought of us even owning a firearm that can shoot a mile is enough to make them cringe.
    Personaly I hope to see you get it set up and that you are close enough to me that with todays gas prices I can afford the trip to come stay there.
    I was just wondering if you had looked into the insurance thing or not yet and if there was any companies out there willing to write the policy.
    Good luck on the B&B and keep us posted if it comes to life.

  • RemMax

    In regards to Scopes, something that is frequently overlooked but is almost as important as your choice of scope is MOUNTS!
    I saw a fellow at our local range this past deer season came out to sight in his brand new Nikon Scope on his 12 guage Slug Gun only to have it fly off on his second shot and bust his eyelid wide open in front of his young son!
    It turns out he had mounted a $200.00 shotgun scope on his slug gun with a pair of $5.00 Walmart Rings!
    I personaly have my Leupold VariXIII mounted to my .50BMG with a pair of Barret Adjustable Rings (no longer made) as well as rings of equal quality on all my other rifles
    A good pair of rings can make a break the performance of any scope.
    Just a thought……

  • Jeremy Rhodes

    I have heard of this rifle going for as little as $1400. secondly as i have the beginning stages of arthritis in wrists shoulders and elbows i find it more comfortable and i’m able to shoot tighter more consistent groups with a pistol grip than i am with a standard stock because of my wrist being in a more natural alignment, allowing me to focus on landing the shot. this rifle will soon be in my inventory in the .300 win mag caliber. saving my pennies now.

  • Matt

    Jeremy, When I searched last fall there was nothing in that low of a price range, apart from a report of Bass Pro incorrectly pricing and honoring a 1500+ mismark which they quickly corrected. I got mine for 1800shipped which was a great deal. If you really do find it, brand new, for 1400 dont hesitate. Good luck & Enjoy

  • I took the time to read every post listed above from the beginning and was rewarded with a wealth of information…….I have had my Savage BA110 since the end of last October and have probably run 300 rounds down the barrel by now. These were all my own loads assembled on my Dillon RL550B using Redding Competition dies carefully weighing each load twice…….I have only used Lapua brass and at first only neck sized…after some bolt sticking problems I now re-size all brass before reloading. I have tried 250 SMK’s, Berger 300g Hybrids and 300g SMK’s…..all have shot well. Powders used were mostly VihtaVuori …..Yesterday was the first time I was able to shoot the Savage past 100 yards….I set up at daylight at West End Gun Club in the Lytle Creed area of So. Cal…..The longest range there is 600 yards (530 yards measured with range finder) and after getting the scope to a good zero…..I was able to shoot 3″ groups consistently…..I used 300g SMK’s, Moly coated and 83.7 grains of VV N560…..2635 fps and 12 MOA dialed in on the NightForce NSX….I was shooting from my portable bench…..I think this was a good starting point and plan to do better with more load development. Does this info compare to what others have found?

  • Matt

    Hey Bill, Welcome… Sounds like you have a good grouping going on there. I am pushing my 300g SMKs to what I believe to be the true max/upper end of the envelope, at 2766fps. I am curious to see if you see any sticking issues on subsequent reloads even with Lapua brass at your current FPS rating. Even your FTP rating is at the upper end and I have noticed after 2 or 3 reloads I get 1 in every so many that have a little lift issue on the last 5% of so of bolt list. Its clear to me that the brass is expanding and after so many loads not contracting as much which is to be expected. I dont consider this a problem other than shortening the life of the ever so unrealistically-prices Lapua stamped brass. Well done, happy shooting!

  • Matt…..
    I had a lot of bolt sticking issues until I started to re-size with each new reload……..I wouldn’t call it a bolt sticking issue now ….but on maybe one in six rounds I get a little bolt drag…..but as you said it is not a problem. What powder and load are you finding works best? I am hoping to get 10 reloads at least from the Lapua brass before it is junk…does this sound realistic to you?

  • Matt

    Hey Bill – Although I understand the life of brass is reduces when performing full size vs just neck size, I always full size in all chamberings that I load. I found, at least in my rifle, that Hodgen H-1000 at 92.0g sitting at a COAL of 3.680 produced hole-in hole and touching groups at 100yards. This is using the SMK 300g exclusively. I havent moved to other projectiles since I found a great grouper. I am running Federal 215 primers (wanted the Gold Match but they were nowhere to be found when I was working up my loads). I chronoed various loads and in a 3 shot group my 1st two of the 3 shot group were EXACTLY the same velocity, the 3rd round was 3fps of from the initial two. I found this to be phenominal consistency.

    I am pushing these 300grainers at 2,766fps which is pretty high so I am not sure what life I am going to get out of the brass as a result. The handful of rounds I have (only 25 sadly, so far) were once fired brass and have loaded and fired them twice. So they are now on their 4th loading. I would say out of the 25 I found probably 4 or so that had a slight lift stiffness at the very end of the lift. None did on my initial (which was 2nd load). Once lifted it extracts glass smooth so I dont consider this an issue but what it does tell me is that I am stretching the brass pretty good. This is also told by the amount I am trimming the brass every time. I use a Lee cutter which is a fixed min overall length sizer and it seems a good bit comes off each time I reload. If I remember I am going to take my digital caliper out and measure before firing then after to get an idea of the brass expansion. At least at these levels I would be totally amazed to get 10loads out of each but will keep track. My guess is more like 5-6.

    I also, despite the many boos this may produce, perform a light factory crimp on ALL my factory loads. The 338LPM is no different. I bought a Lee Factory Crimp die just for this round. It does not require a crimp ring and it ensures uniform start pressures also placing less requirement for a consistent neck size to hold the projectile. This really helps in brass that has been fired quite a bit and wont hold as tight as it did when new.

    At 3,500ft above sea level these loads are still supersonic at the magic mile and still has approximately 2.5x the energy of a 180g 40S&W at point blank range. Enough to ring a gong/plate at the 1,760yard mark. Hope this helps.

  • Matt…….
    Thanks for the great reply…….The first time that I shot the 300g SMK’s was just last week and that was at 530 yards…..I am going to the range Thursday morning and will shoot at the 100 yard range and use the chronograph to make sure of my fps on these loads. The best groups I have seen at 100 yards were 5 shot groups at 3/4 inch….I will try your loads as it sounds better than mine…. I use the Hornady trimmer and yes I do seem to trim some of the brass on each re-load…..I neck size first and then run the brass through the complete re-size die……clean the primer pockets, chamfer the inside and outside of the neck and then measure the brass for length…..I then trim to length if necessary and
    chamfer the the neck again…..Bill

  • Matt

    Your welcome Bill, I hope it helps. I did find in my load workups that at 90.0g (all being H-1000) that I found a good node, was within 1/2″ center to center of each other. While that was good I still had loads up to 92.0 in 1/2g increments to test. On my initial workups I did not run them thru the chrono, I determined which was the best grouper then on subsequent outings I ran thru the chrono.

    When it hit 92.0g they started cutting hole on hole. While the life of the brass I am sure the 90.0 would be better I wanted to reach the max of the LPM and the 92.0 fulfills. I trim the case EVERY time down to the min spec case length. While there is room to play I know the way I am pushing the loads they elongate quite a bit. I don’t want to have issues when the brass expands having not trimmed back far.

    Keep us posted –

  • Thanks again Matt……
    I went to the range Thursday morning and shot a number of 1/2 inch five shot grops at 100 yards…..300 SMK’s, moly coated, 83.7 g of VV N560 with an average speed of 2640 fps…..Not sure what to try next as these shot well for me the week before at 530 yards…..My local gun store did not have any H1000….So I bought some more VV N560 and a jar of IMR 4350 to try…….may take me a week or two for results…Bill

  • Matt

    Well done Bill, thats pretty good but I will say at 100yards the Savage 110BA in 338LPM is capable of hole-touching groups. All depends on what you are looking to do. If you are smacking steel at distance that grouping would serve very well. Its just ~140fps slower than I get out of the H1000 but at the same time, you may find a little more life from the brass with the lower velocity- not certain there.

    I can say the H1000 is very clean burning. Never used the VV powder as it was not avail when I started my load workups locally and it was also A LOT more expensive. I get 1lb of H1000 around 22 bucks here at a show and 25 in-store. The VV locally (tag on the shelf non in stock) was 35 per lb. If you choose to try the H1000 I hope you get good grouping as it would be cheaper than the VV to help save. What COAL are you sitting at? Keep us posted, interested to hear your workups.

  • brandon

    hey guys its been a little bit and need to ask what is smallest size of the brass i can use .befor i start triming down and im using reloder 25 any one have some good load plans and were can i find the min. and max i can do my onw work ups you test out what some poeple are shooting and do some tweeks as needed with the rl25 any help is helpfull thank you

  • Matt……
    COL has been limited to 3.681……There is some distance from the o-give to the begining of the rifling…..I have measured this a couple of times but so far have not ventured past the maximum length shown for this cartridge in Sierra’s latest manual ….making them closer to the rifling will be one of the things I do next……
    I loaded 50 rounds of 300 SMK’s, Neco moly plated, with 79g of IMR 4350 ….as my local store was out of H1000…..I may not have a chance to test them for two or three weeks…….Yest cheaper is better as the IMR was much cheaper than the VithVouri……Will keep you posted…..

  • Matt

    Bill, thanks for the info. Curious to hear your further results. Interestingly enough I dont have the Sierra load book and have never seen it. Would like to see the excerpt for the 338LPM, 300g SMKs specifically, curious how mine rates on its scales.

    When I did my measurements my max length just touching the rifling was 3.731 so I have just a hair more than 50 thousandths of an inch off-set from the lands. The reason I didn’t go with the 3.60even was to give a little more air space between powder & projectile base without compressing. At 92.0g of H1000 that would almost be a compressed load with no shake sound (technical term to listen if there is any gap between the powder and the projectile, lol).

    I didn’t go further, even tho there was more cartridge space in the magazine, because I didn’t want to build up excessive pressure in an already high -pressure over-bored Magnum. There are two basic preferences when it comes to seating – jump or jamb the lands. I always have at least a .050″ gap as when the projectile is jammed into the lands it peaks at a greater start pressure. In my case I am already at red line max charge and this is of even greater importance with my loads.

    These are actually the first and only COAL I have run thru my 110BA and it seems to love it. Two different nodes, one at 90.0g did a great grouping and then 92.0 got me cutting hole on hole at 100yards. I went with the 92.0 since it was slightly tighter but mainly because, hopefully someday, I will be able to reach out to that magic Mile and wanted all my loads to be the same.

    Keep us posted –

  • Took the Savage 110 BA to the Angeles Shooting Range on the 16th with hopes of running several different hand loads through the chrono. Sad to say the range was closed to the public starting at 1PM for some SWAT Officers so we only had a short time in the AM to do any shooting. We did manage to get one load through the chrono:
    SCOPE: Nightforce NXS 2256
    CASE: HSM 338LM (once fired)
    C.O.A.L.: 3.8650 in
    C.O.L: 2.7280 in
    BULLET: Berger 300 gr Hybrid
    PRIMER: Federal 215
    POWDER: Vihtavouri 170, 79.4 gr
    AVG VELOCITY FOR 5 RDS: 2306 FPS, Vihtavouri hand book, 2360 FPS
    ACCURACY, PAPER TARGET: 100 yds, 5 shots touching 1/2 in cen to cen
    ACCURACY, METAL RAMS: 200 yds, 5 shots, 5 hits
    400 yds, 5 shots, 5 hits
    600 yds, 5 shots, 5 hits

    All in all not a bad day. The Competition Electronics ProChrono placed 12 ft in front of the bench worked as advertised.

    Next we will increase the load to 84.4 gr of Vihtavouri 170 powder (half way between min of 79.4 and max of 90.4 gr) per the Vihtavouri hand loading manual and repeat the exercise. The third session will consist of 90.4 gr of Vihtavouri 170 and then we will switch powders and start the process again. Purpose being to find the most accurate load for the Berger 300 gr Hybrid om the 110 BA. Trying to attain max velocity is not our intent.

  • Matt…..
    I was able to go to the range early Thursday morning….it was foggy and I sometimes had to wait a few minuets to see the targets at 100 yds…..with 79 grains of IMR 4350 I got an average fps of 2650 with the SMK’s 300g, Neco moly and 3.682 COAL…….only got to shoot 20 rounds and was getting hole touching 5 shot groups……..On the Sierra load manual…..there are many powders listed and H1000 is one of them….Sierra only shows two ratings….one is for most accurate powder and load…….the other is for best hunting load….If I remember correctly the IMR 4350 at 78.8g was listed as most accurate and the best hunting load was the VitaVori 560…..I am not in front of the load manual just now so I will look it up and confirm later…..Nest time I shoot I will use this load at 530 yards and let you know…..Thanks Bill

  • Brian L

    I finally got to the range with my 110BA. I decided to place my existing NF 12-42 x 56 NXS scope on top. It took me only 4 rounds to sight in at 100yds. I used Hornday 250 gr BTHP with 86.0 grains of H1000. COL and LOA were all trimmed to normal specs. After shooting 5 more rounds I was hitting 3/4″. I say not bad for the first time out. Next time I will move out to 200yds.

  • jay

    Is anybody shooting 300 gr SMKs in their 110? I am interested to know how they fit in the magazine and what kind of powder, powder weight and if any headspace issues have arisen with these particular bullets.
    Also took mine out to 1000 yds with factory ammo the other day. The Savage and Nightforce combo was exceptional at that range, I was consistently scoring hits on a 27″ gong at that range. Can’t wait to get some loads worked up and really test the performance at distance!

  • jay

    Nice grouping, I think you will be impressed with the overall preformance of the Savage. At 300 yds cold bore I was still grouping well under 1″. My hat is off to the people at Savage for a high quality rifle that is still affordable.

  • Matt

    Jay – Thanks, thats great news too. Regarding 300g SMKs, that is all I have put thru my 110BA in 338LPM. They fit perfect in the magazine with a boat load of room to spare. I dont recall exactly without going downstairs with the caliper to measure (srry, clocking serious couch time right now) but from memory I believe I still have around .65-70″ left of space.

    Using 300g SMKs, Lapua Headstamped brass trimmed to min spec length (forget off top of my head what that is) I use 92.0g of H-1000& Fed 215 Magnum primers (wanted GM primers but they were no where to be found at the time of my workups); My COAL is sitting at 3.680 which is .050″ off the lands. This is yeilding hole-in-hole groups at 100, sad to say I have not been farther with her yet. Muzzle velocity is chrono clocked at 2,766fps.

    A few folks asked for some video of the Savage 110BA. I haven’t gone out with the explicit intent to take good shooting video but here are some clips I put together of the last outing. This was shooting at 100yards zeroing in a Hawke SIdewinder 30 – 1/2 Mildot scope which performed beautifully.

    Note the final cold barrel shot on the second target, was very pleased.
    I use 300g Sierra Matchking Boat tail rounds sailing at 2,766fps/muzzle velocity. Started off at almost 5,100ft/lbs of energy & impacted the 18″ oak with around 4,800ft/lbs of energy. Thanks –

  • I was at the range early last Thursday morning 6/4/2011 and using 300g Sierra MK’s, NECO moly coated, with IMR 4350 powder at 82g muzzle velocity of 2650 fps was able to shoot consistent 1 1/2 inch groups at 530 yards…..I just loaded the same bullet but used 92g of H1000 ……might be a couple of weeks before I check muzzle velocity……

    Matt…..From the Sierra Load Manuel……max load for H1000 is 92.2 grains
    muzzle velocity was 2750 fps….hope this helps…..

  • Matt

    Thanks Bill for that book info. Nice to see its on par (even tho my results are slightly greater) with what the manual is showing.

    Anxious to hear how they run for you in yours. Great grouping at that distance. Would be interested to know how the 92.0g of H1000 compares to your existing loads.

    Do keep us posted – thanks – Matt

  • Chuck Skillet

    It’s a Savage….what do you expect out of a cement but cement!!
    The thing is a nice piece of custom work. I am 64 and all my life I looked at Savage and knocked them for looks. Didn’t appreciate them at all until the last 3 years. Just check out the national championships, competition shoots around the country. Some of these guys use “out of the box” rifles! Got my attention. I have sold/traded my Rems,Wins & Browns off, one by one…replaced them with Savage. User friendly, old and new ones. Shoot like I knew what I was doing.

    In short, Savage has listened to the shooters feedback and have produced what they want from hunters to target people and have earned my respect.
    Savage is a shooter’s weapon from Fun to Professional.

  • Chuck…..I too have been a big fan of Savage Arms…..I bought my first one many years ago and have never had one problem with any of them…
    they all shoot as straight as advertised and have proven to be quite durable……I have become very fond of my 110BA and am still working up loads…..
    Matt…..Went to the range last week and tried the 300g SMK with 92g of H1000…….Measured 2772 fps with the Crony……at 100 yards was getting 3/4 inch groups…….I will try to go out to 530 yards soon….and will let you know the result…..530 yards is the longest range close to my home or I would try a longer distance…

    • Matt

      Hey Bill, was just curious if you made it out to the longer distance with the 300g SMK @ 92.0g? Was interested to hear the report of how well it did.

      Thanks –

  • Wynn

    hello, I’m looking to purchase a Savage 110 BA but don’t know too much about it. I would also love to have a folding stock if there is one available but not important right now. I know a guy selling his 110 BA 338 LM with 300 rounds through the barrel. Forward with the question at hand, how many rounds can be fired through this barrel until it needs to be replaced? Also is a Nightforce is an NXS 8-32X56 NP R-2 capable to seeing something at 1 (one) mile out? That’s just my personal goal to hit a steel target at 1 mile. Thanks in advance.

  • mike

    Wynn, it depends on how big the plate of steel is, as well as the color of it versus the background it is set against. I can see prairie dogs at 800 yds with a 24 power scope, and standing they are approximately 12″ tall by 3″ wide, and often times they are brown on brown (which makes hitting them at that range virtually impossible with a .223). If your goal is a sillouhette at a mile, 32 power with a .338 Lapua should be quite sufficient so long as you are capable of that shot. Just don’t overlook the Coriolis effect.

  • Dennis Nielsen

    Can anyone tell me the torque setting for the wedge screw?

    I just adjusted my trigger and would like to know.

    Savage ROCKS!!!!

    Thanks in advance,

  • Dennis Nielsen

    Torque specs are 45″ lbs for the fastners for stock to action assy.

    Mine is poking the same hole at 100yds. =]

    Sierra suggests a max case length of 2.724″ “DONT GO THAT”

    2.714″ or slightly less and spent cases will extract.

  • Shawn

    I have heard some talk about trobles ejecting with the 338 lapua 110 savage. I too have found this to be true. I called a gunsmith (Corlanes) they told me that if your using Hornady brass its softer and expandes more resulting in the ejection issuse. In fact thats what I was using for ammo Hornady 250 g hunting rounds. I sent the gun off to Corlanes where they are machining the bore out another .50. This will help with theses issues. it also means my coal will be .50 longer! not a big deal. The Lapua seems to shoot well no matter the headspace. Another issue I have been having is that damn trigger. The shear keeps ingaging on me no matter how I squeeze the sucker. Its been very frustrating. So the only logical thing to do there is replace the trigger. Which is happening now. All in all the rifle is pretty good. for $220.00 worth of mods it will be better! I can hit milk jugs full of water at 1000+yards, so accuracy is not the issue. hope this helps anyone going thru what I have been thru. Shawn

    • Matt

      Shawn, if you go back thru this thread you will see the exact comments/info posted by me and a few others. Regarding the Brass, if you intend to load the 338LPM Hot and accurate (as in my opinion it should be the reach out) then Hornady and other cheaper brass offerings are out. You will be stuck with the Lapua stamp due to the metallurgy. I lost my rear on a bunch of Hornady I bought and found I couldnt use. So I sold it for next to nothing. Lapua stamped brass is unreal expensive, doenst make sense, but it is what it is.

      Regarding the trigger, before spending $$ on replacement do what I did – tune up the trigger weight. After speaking with the factory reps they had a large run that left the factory that were tuned too light. Turned mine up a bit and never had an issue since. Hope this helps –

    • Smitty33


      Just purchased a Savage 10 FCP HS 338 LPM. I think 110 BA and the FCP are the same barrell. I also having problems with OAL of my loads. Many reciepes call for 3.68 COAL and this lenght bolt closes and opens very hard. Broke barrel in with factory loads S&B Match 250 SMK. These shells were cheap from CTD at 2.50 per round, not really re-loadable. Primer pockets undersized and second firing had to bang them out of the barrel. Not good brass so I paid the price for Lapua brass. Big difference in quality, ever case the same. I have shot some cases four times with no trimming required. However, I can’t load to 3.68 with a 250 Lapua Scenar. Bolt closed very hard and marks the bullet at the largest diameter close to the case neck. Do you or anyone know the measurement to the lands?

      Taking rifle to my gunsmith today to have barrel and chamber looked at.

      Thanks in advance foer any comments that will help!


      • Matt

        I am running 300g SMKs in my 110BA in 338LPM & they sit .050 off the lands with no issues. Excellent accuracy as well. Hope this helps-

  • Smitty33

    Thanks Matt, this does help. Returned from my Gun Smith today with some answers also. The design on the Lapua Scenar bullet, 250 gr is the real problem for me and the Savage 10 FCP. Haven’t measured a 300 gr Scenar. The .338 diameter on the Scenar is longer than any other bullet we measured. It does not taper into the angle as soon as other bullets and slams into the throat of the barrel before the bolt can be closed with just firm force. We measured SMK 250 and 300, Nosler Accubond 250, Berger 250 and Barnes TSX 285 and they can be loaded to the recommened length. The Scenar can not and I took the length down to 3.600. We also measured the length to the lands on my barrel and came up with 3.711.

    What is the COAL on the loaded 300GR SMK, if you are .050 off the lands?

    • Matt

      Hey Smitty33, glad the info was of some use. I have only loaded 300g SMKs in mine so I cant speak for other projectiles but what you are saying makes sense with the other rounds. I am sitting right at 3.680COAL and I have a little space left in the magazine that I could have gone a hair farther but my 110BA LOVES the 300g @ 3.680. They are hole-in-hole cutting at my 100yard zero. I also use the H-1000 powder @ 92.0g as well. Hope this helps.

    • Matt

      I measured mine to be 3.730 total, so the recommended 3.680 sits perfect for me at 50thousands off the lands. Someone else asked before what is used to measure. I choose the DIY route, took one of the useless (for me) Hornady 338LPM cases, cut two slits in an x across the neck and inserted the 300g SMK into it at an extended length then VERY slowly chambered the round. It seats the bullet perfect and retains the exact depth. Works actually very well and no $ out of pocket for any additional tools. Hope this helps.

      • Smitty33


        Again Thank you for your comments very helpful. I and my gunsmith used the same method as you to measure. Tomorrow I will be testing loads with 4 different 250 gr and SMK 300GR. Some with H-1000 and some with 4831sc. I am using Lapua brass from now on. I have tried two other brands doesn’t hold up. I ordered some Laupa brass for my 308 also. It’s worth the money! On Lapua’s web site they list for the 338 SMK 300gr, with Lapua Brass, H-1000 at 80.6 gr= 2379 Velocity, produced a 3 shot group at 0.118. Note: they loaded it to 3.73 COAL! However, they were shooting a AI Artic Warefare Military Rifle.
        I will load this receipe tonight,(.010 off the lands) and let you know the results.

    • Matt

      Smitty33, glad it could help. Nice to hear the method I use is actually used elsewhere too. At least in my 110BA, if I kept the loads at 89.0g or less of H1000 the Hornady brass was fine. It was once I got above that and into the 90 range did the extraction issues present itself. Running 92.0 of H1000 produces a consistant 2,766fps at the Chrono. Pretty stout for a 300g round but thats also why I am stuck with the Lapua stamped brass due. But its 3/16″ center to center in a 3 shot group at 100yards so I am VERY pleased. Curious to know how yours works out, hope it does well.

      • Smitty33


        Just returned from the range and here are the 3 best results at 100 yards
        Group size is measured from the largest outside spread of 3 or 5 shots, minus the diameter of the bullet(.338). Savage 10 FCP HS 338 Lapua Mag


        3 Shot group at (.083) I am real happy with this load!
        4th fired Lapua case trimed to 2.714
        Federal Primer 215M
        Powder 4831SC 75.5 G
        Bullet SMK 300 gr
        Velocity 2,590
        COAL 3.680
        TIR <.002


        3 Shot group at (.325)
        1st fired Lapua trimed to 2.714
        Federal Primer 215M
        Powder H-1000 80.6 G
        Bullet SMK 300gr
        Velocity 2,379
        COAL 3.730 (Note the design of the Serria allows this length)
        .001 TIR


        5 Shot group at (.456)
        Federal Primer 215M
        Powder H-1000 83G
        Bullet Scenar 250 gr
        Velocity 2,793
        COAL 3.595 ( unable to load this design to the recommended (3.680)
        <.004 TIR

      • Matt


        That’s phenomenal. My H1000@92.0g with the 300SMKs give me between 1/8 and 3/16″ between shots. May be able to get it a little tighter but I am pretty happy with that being that its shooting off the back of a pickup truck bed with pallets & plywood in the back. An ad-hock setup driving out into an open field.

        That first load you have sounds like the winner, great shooting. You may already have some apps but here is a chart based on your load of the first grouper its formatted the best I can in this text response. The special distance of 1760yds is the mile which I load mine to reach and is why I got as hot as I can maintaining accuracy.

        Range Speed Energy Drop Path Elevn Windage Time
        Input data: [yards] [fps] [] [inches] [inches] [MOA] [MOA] [sec]
        SMK 300g Bullet description 1760 1079 775 1477.07 -1401.19 75.82 10.67 3.16
        2590 Muzzle speed (fps) 0 2590 4468 0.00 -1.75 0.00
        300 Bullet wt (gn) 100 2487 4119 2.66 0.00 0.00 0.40 0.12
        0.768 BC 200 2385 3790 10.95 -3.87 1.84 0.82 0.24
        1760 Special range (yd) 300 2286 3482 25.34 -13.86 4.40 1.25 0.37
        0 Start range (yd) 400 2189 3193 46.39 -30.49 7.26 1.70 0.50
        100 Increment (yd) 500 2094 2922 74.69 -54.39 10.36 2.18 0.64
        0.00 Impact Ht. (in) 600 2002 2669 110.93 -86.21 13.68 2.67 0.79
        100 at Zero range (yd) 700 1911 2432 155.86 -126.73 17.24 3.19 0.94
        10 Wind speed (mph) 800 1822 2212 210.33 -176.79 21.05 3.73 1.10
        3.0 Wind dir. (o’clock) 900 1736 2007 275.29 -237.34 25.12 4.30 1.27
        16 Temp. (Celcius) 1000 1651 1816 351.85 -309.48 29.47 4.90 1.45
        3500 Altitude (feet) 1100 1569 1640 441.21 -394.44 34.15 5.53 1.64
        1000 Pressure (mbar) 1200 1489 1477 544.80 -493.62 39.18 6.19 1.83
        1.75 Scope Ht. (in) 1300 1411 1326 664.21 -608.61 44.59 6.89 2.04
        1.05 in./MOA @ 100 yds 1400 1335 1187 801.27 -741.26 50.43 7.63 2.26
        0.50 Retard. Coeff. rate 1500 1261 1059 958.09 -893.68 56.74 8.41 2.49
        1000 Break Velocity (fps) 1600 1189 942 1137.14 -1068.31 63.59 9.24 2.74
        1700 1119 835 1341.23 -1267.99 71.04 10.12 3.00
        Calculated data & constants: 1800 1052 737 1573.69 -1496.04 79.16 11.05 3.27

      • Smitty33


        I shoot at a club from a bench using bags. I find bags is the most accurate for more, even better than a lead sled. Going to start working my way out to longer distance. I belong to another club that goes to 550 yards. If a want 1000 yards I have to travel 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

        Thanks for the 300 SMK data!


  • Excellent post. Thanks. goose for men

    • Bill Brown

      I haven’t posted for some time but I am still shooting the Savage……I can get consistant 3″ groups at just a little over 800 yards…I have setteled on 300g SMK’s…..Nico moly plated…..with 84g of IMR 4350….I am using Lapua brass that is now in it’s 10th reloading cycle and still showing no signs of case damage….I trim after each fireing….2751 fps measured more than once…so as of now I have just a little over 1,000 rounds fired through the Savage and it still shoots just as good as new….The BA110 has become one of my favorite things……I do all my reloading on a Dillon 550 press with Redding comp dies…..and I too was having extraction problems until I started useing a full size body die and began to set the sholder back so that the round would chamber well and extract easily…..If you have some intrest I posted a video on YouTube that you can see here……
      I haven’t tried to shoot past 800 yards because no close range is available here in the Southern part of the Peoples Republic…….of California…..

      • Frank 65

        Just bought 110 ba 338 papua And am having extraction problems using Lapua Brass and 300 g scenar bullets. 89.5g H1000 crony avg 2690
        Full length die (RCBS) no problem chambering after firing bolt is hard up and have to tap it back with your palm. Brass shows no sign of to much pressure and the primer is not flattened.

    • Smitty33


      This is an excellent post and great video that answers the issues people are having. I have not found any problems with the Savage 110 at all. The 338 Lapua is a very powerful round and I have found only the Lapua brass will hold up for reloaders. However, you nailed it, headspace needs to be checked at every reloading. My loads are always on the light side of the charts and even with Lapua brass you are going to start to have chambering problems between 4-6 firings. Full length sizing is required to push the shoulder back .001-.002, requires a little muscle. I am currently loading Lapua cases for the 10th time and see no signs of any becoming unsafe yet. Lapua case with 300gr SMK hard to beat!

      Don’t forget to scrubb the chamber and clean the bolt face often of build up.

      • Bill Brown

        Smitty…..Thanks for the reply and good review……

  • beirman

    Took the old 110ba .338 out 2 weeks ago and shot a mile put to 6 inch groups together for my first time after sending only 3 to get on the paper

  • Matt

    Frank 65 –

    Some questions:

    How far during the bolt cycle are you experiencing this? Is it only towards the very end or beginning of the cycle?

    Is this with new or once fired brass, how many firings?

    Are there any extractor marks on the extracted brass?

    How does the brass extract without firing after chambering?

    What is the length of your trimmed brass? Trim back to the min recommended case length of 2.714″, you could be getting excessive elongation upon firing causing extraction issues too. Check case length pre/post firing.

    I am running 92.0G of H1000, forced to stay w/ Lapua stamped brass due to pressure, using 300gSMKs. I only rarely feel a slight stiffness with the last 1/4 inch of the bolt opening after so many loads of the same brass, due to the brass being ‘ elastic ‘ and not returning back. I full-length size always. No problem. Before I used Hornady brass and the brass was practically stuck in the chamber I couldnt open the bolt anything past 88.5 to 90g of H1000. Using 92.0G H1000 I am getting 2,766fps .

    Hope this helps – Matt

    • Bill Brown

      Matt….The bolt stick issues began after the first 3 or 4 reloads…..The bolt becomes hard to close at the very end of the cycle and after the shot is fired it is very hard to lift the bolt handle….after the handle is lifted the bolt extracts easily….I trim my brass to the length of 2.715 length….I trim with every reload to make sure all brass is the same….I tried a few loads with the H1000….while it worked well….I just seem to get better results with the IRM 4350…..

      • Matt

        Hey Bill,

        If you throw a new or once fired brass in the mix, I take it there are no extraction issues and its repeatable?

        You can check to see just how much expansion/elongation by bringing a caliper, pre/post firing including measuring case length. If its that tight also check for extractor marks/gouges at the base of the brass.

        Sounds like the brass is getting weak and over expanding. As the brass expands/contracts its stressed and as this flex occurs will become weaker with every firing. Its not uncommon for folks running higher loads with 300G projectiles. I don’t expect to see the 8 to 10 reloads out of mine running 300g as I would running 250g that most are seeing, even as much as 12 reloads with lighter charges. I see after 3 or 4 loads I start getting slight stiffness the last quarter inch of extraction. I expect this to slowly increase as I get to 5 & 6+.

      • Bill Brown

        I cured my bolt stick issue by doing this……I use the full length Redding resize die…..with it adjusted down all the way until it touched my shell plate on the Dillon press it would still not set the sholder back far enough to make the case load or eject easliy…..Here is what I did….I put the die in a lathe and trimed about .010 of the bottom of the die…..this allowed me enough adjustment to lower the die down far enough to get the sholder set back enough to load and extract easily….This may not be necessiary in all press set ups…..but it does work for me……Bill

    • Frank 65

      Cases are correct length going in and after firing. After firing bolt is stiff going up. and has to be tapped back with the heal of your hand. Some new brass and some 2nd use. cases are 2.712 new 2.713 after firing some 2.712

  • Smitty33

    Hi Guys,

    More than a few of us having the same extraction problem with Savage FCP 338 Lapua and reloading. I use only Lapua brass, all others are a waste of time. At the 4-5th firing you are starting to have headspace problems. Resulting in hard bolt closing, at the end of cycle and hard extraction after firing. I trim all cases to 2.714 and do not find much growth, if any, after firing. I am on 9th firing and cases show no signs of being unsafe. I was just at the range two days ago fired 20 , 8 times fired and full length re-sized Lapua cases and 3 were hard to extract. I use H-1000 80.6gr or 4831sc at 72.5gr, low side of recommended loads, bullet SMK 300gr. I have had to run a rod down the barrel on a few, but they come out with little effort. I have cleaned and inspected the chamber and see no burrs or defects. I do notice that I have to throw the bolt up with a snap to get extraction. Going to my gunsmith and have him inspect the bolt and the chamber and will advise the results. I use a standard RCBS single Rock Crusher press, standard RCBS dies and a Wilson head space gage. Find it takes a lot of force to bump back the head space .001-.002 and I am not a small man. Any suggestions?

    • Matt


      That H1000 load is real low. If you are experiencing this consistently & with that light of a load perhaps a call into Savage is warranted. I have only seen minor bolt stiffness when using a hot charge (over 90g)of H1000 and the Lapua stamped brass has gone thru several cycles.

      If you are full length resizing (I do) and I saw what you are seeing I would absolutely givem a ring. I understand they have a great service/support department.

  • Smitty33

    I called Savage. If you even mention reloading they will not provide any information. All they did was recommend Blackhills OTM ammo. Shaving .010 off the die face may help. I took .003 off the shell holder and that wasn’t enough to set back all the cases.
    Thanks for the tip!

    • Bill Brown

      Within the last few days I acquired a bore scope…….one of the Hawkeye models……I have had some time to learn to use it on several different rifles and the results have been interesting……..On my 110BA I seem to have a coper fouling problem….I can never seem to get all of it out…maybe I am using the wrong bore solvent…..The bore looks clean and the rifle shoots great…..What are some of you using to get a clean bore….On my 308’s there seams to be little or no fouling…..on my 223’s there is some fouling but not much….all use the same bore solvent…..After 1000 rounds I seem to have just a little heat cracking where the round enters the bore…not much at all…..Comments welcome……

      • Matt

        Bill, I found the MPro7 Copper Remover to be the best. BUT I would say, and there are different schools of thought on this, that you actually do not want to removal all the copper. It takes quite a while for the bore to be ‘ conditioned ‘ and once it is this thin layer of copper fills the imperfections of the surface leaving a final signature. Most often accuracy accuracy will continue to increase until it has ‘ fowled ‘ sufficiently.

        I have come across quite a few folks that had excellent grouping then removed every bit of copper from their barrels only to see the groups opening up. Once they shot enough rounds thru, the foulding was replaced and their groups tightened up.

        I never would have believed that unless I saw it but then again it does make sense. Just my thoughts –

      • Bill Brown

        Matt…..Thanks for the reply……I really like what you said…….and it makes a lot of sense to me…..The gun shoots great just like it is ….even if it has a little copper in the bore……I will try the cleaner you suggested….Have a Merry Christmas….Thanks Bill

      • Matt

        Your welcome Bill, glad it was of help. I am a big fan of the MPro 7 products, they work really great. I do use the Copper Remover from MPro 7 but very lightly. I am not concerned about trying to remove much. This really goes against the cleaning regiment I was raised with but after seeing real world data & thinking about it, it does make sense.

        It sounds like you have a well seasoned barrel.

        There are some out there, not myself personally, that will almost never clean their barrels running just a few patches with a mild solvent if that but only when they have accuracy issues.

        Not sure if you have ever seen the Magpul videos (GREAT stuff/info), their newer precision sniper/long range shooting video if I recall correctly even addresses this very thing about not removing all the copper that you have worked to build up.

        Happy holidays to you & all as well –

    • Try my load: 300 grain Sierra BTHP Match King loaded into Lapua cases with 90.0 grains of Ramshot Magnum capped with Federal Gold Medal Magnum primers. Absolutely love it! 🙂

      • E

        what is your bullet seating die set at and the overall length when measuring with bullet and case?

  • Darcy Potter

    I just bought 2 110BA 338lapua so my 22 year old son and I can get into LR shooting together I have Leupold mark 4 8.5-25x50mm M1 scopes to mount on them I am a reloader of 30 years I would like any advice on finishing the rifles and on loads i can get . Here in Alberta Canada the wait for the rifles was over half a year. the scopes just arrived and were ordered at the same time allso does anyone make a 30moa rail system for the rifle . I will be forced to go with Harris for bipods as Atlas is not shipping to Canada at this time , this is allso why I did not go with N/F as of the military contract it is not a option at this time

    • bill brown

      The best advise I can give you is to be sure to set the shoulder Back far enough to make the case chamber with ease…..also makes the bolt much easier to open and remove the fired case…..I used the Stony Point head space gauge and some new un fired Lapua cases to get the correct measurement…….takes a few reloads before the cases start to stick…….doing the above from the first reload will make life easier…..Hope this is some help to you………